First european settlement in South Africa was established in 17^th century by Dutch people. South Africa was later a British colony and it achieved its political independence in 1961 when it was declared as a republic.

When The Afrikaner National Party was elected in 1948 started a huge excluding of non-whites from having any political or economical power. Era of Apartheid: between 1948 and 1994. During this time the government categorised everyone into one of 4 major ethnic groups: Africans (native or bantu - blacks), coloured, Asian or white. If there was any people who opposed the government, the latter would answer with volence. There were massacres and murders of political activists. African National Congress as an organisation which opposed the racist legislation was at that time very important. Many leaders of ANC were arrested, imprisoned for a very long time. The one that we all know was Nelson Mandela. Becouse of his movement against Apartheid he was imprisoned for 27 years! He was a former president of South Africa, 1st one who was democrativelly elected when apartheid ended in 1994.

South Africa is most developed country on our way, everything seems like in Europe, roads are really good, in towns you have scyscrapers, shopping malls…except when you go out of the city you may see suburbs with barracs where people live without water and electricity. Although the latter they steal. We’ve seen whole net of wires connected to the main  electrical wiring. If there is anyone killed while doing that, no problem…it’s done for the masses in the slum J..am joking of course…not that funny…About a quarter of the population is unemployed and lives on less than US$ 1.25 a day and besides poverty and racial inequalities (in 1995 the average white household earned four times as much as the average black household, in 2000 the number wnet up to six times more) South Africa is challenged to fight big percentage of HIV/AIDS infection (20% of population), big crime rate and corruption. Official statistics show that 52 people are murdered every day in South Africa. The reported number of rapes per year is 55,000. Very sad to hear that it is estimated that a woman born in South Africa has a greater chance of being raped than learning how to read. I could go on with the highest incidences of child and baby rape in the world…but I will just stop myself and try to show you beautiful sides of this interesting country.

With not a lot of time left, me and Simona needed to take a van from Maputo in Mozambique to South Africa. With us we also had our friend Ivory who left Mozambique because his African dad died in SA. The easiest and fastest way to go to South Africa (SA) was through Swaziland. Of course it would be great to also explore culture of Swaziland, their interesting tribes of Zulu, Bantu and Swazi people. Their King Mswati III has by now 14 wives. King is expected to marry a woman from every clan in order to cement relationships with each part of Swaziland. Quite interesting country, isn’t it? But we are going to explore it next time. So, we were sitting in the van, Ivory and Simona sitting by the driver in front, and I was squeezed between 3 women at the back. The journey was long, but the scenery and music in my ears were never boring We didn’t need any transit visa when we entered the country of Swaziland. People in the border offices were really nice, but again they didn’t know where Slovenia is. Like many times before we started to laugh and said that we come from country of LOVE …sLOVEnia, ahahha…they gave us a stamp in passport and we were free to go…We never worried too much about money currency…we always go with a flow…so we thought like many times before, that we can change Mozambique meticais without a problem on the border…and btw, we had quite a big amount of money, coz we were sure we will buy few clothes and crafts in Mozambique, but this country surely was not cheap J and besides that Ivory told us that we can’t change Mozambique currency in SA,..huu, nice to hear that, ahhaha…..what are we going to do with all this money then??…we decided to just wait what happens…We entered Swaziland when our driver stopped the van for us to go to the toilet and to have a little snack…there was a little place to take away coffee and some sandwiches…we took coffee and bread, wanted to pay with meticais or dollars, but that woman said that they don’t take this money…mmm…we wanted to return coffee and bread…and then she just said: “it’s ok, just go..u’ll pay whenever u come back”…we told her that we don’t know when will that be… nut she said it’s ok….that was a really beautiful gesture of hers…this is one of the reasons why I love African people so much…they are still human, they help when needed, they understand, they are not robots….We all jumped back into the van and started to drive through Swaziland, country which is a little bit smaller than Slovenia, with 1.2 million of people…We passed through it quite quickly…when we came to our exit point there was an officer very interested where do we come from, what do we do here and where did we travel so far…as we are quite good in joking with people, he liked us at the spot and told us that we need to move to Swaziland, that he will give us a house and a land J….Thank you very much, but not this time, hahahaa…now we just want to go to South Africa…although never say never  ….what do you know what life brings you in the future :)..the next step we need to do is to enter SA…Simona had no problems, but I needed to wait a bit, coz again they just didn’t know if our country is actually on planet Earth J….Simona was laughing at me, she said she will leave me there…but as we are sharing the same van, ahaha…..she’ll just have to wait … No visa required for Slovenians for staying in the country to three months…the same for most nationalities…but interesting thing is that Simona got a stamp to stay in the country for a month and I got it for two months…so Simona, I’ll just stay here for another month, ahhaha…the same thing happened to us already when entering Kenya…by what criteria do they decide whether to let you in for a month or two or three?…only Africans know

After all day of driving in a van we finally arrived to Durban, busiest port in Africa. This place is huge, developed, traffic is chaotic, people running around like ants, hostels are nice, with soap in the bathroom :), many types of good food, fast food, big fruit markets, take aways,..everything you desire…but unfortunately not what we desired ..to stay in a cemented jungle after all this beautiful nature and simple kind of life with local people, just wasn’t fun anymore…everything got really expensive and hard to breathe…we were somehow disappointed and lost….when we stepped off the van, we had no idea where we are, where to go…we also didn’t have any local currency (Rand), and we were really hungry…so we asked few people if they can help us with info about cheap places to sleep….some just walked away…some were trying to help but didn’t really pay attention and were talking another language…finally some guy told us which direction to go to find a hotel….we went there by foot…and called a taxi from there to take us to another place, coz this one we could not afford…..but we were really lucky…we decided to go to Nomad’s place, the best place to go to…why?…becouse of great people working there…and as we slept in a dorm, we had great roommates…it was kind of strange somehow because in one place we met so many great people….first let me mention stuff of this place…Dean, Odie, both working by the reception, and owner of the place..and Lionel who is a security guy…when I couldn’t sleep we were talking outside about many things, shared a cup of tea …..it really felt like home….and at Nomad’s we met great people from all over the world…Patrik from Switzerland who is traveling through Africa with his recording device and records different sounds of nature, city noise, he is making interviews, great stories he wants to tell people…we had a great time with him..he also helped us with our Mozambique currency coz after SA he went to Mozambique (Jag saknar dig. Nous espérons vous voir bientôt) …we got friends also with a guy from Durban, his name is Nick…he is a bioenergetic, reiki master…what a coincidence, he was there when we needed him :)…..why?…becouse Simona got sick again…on the first day we went to a shopping centre nearby to eat something and in the moment when food arrived on the table, she became so weak, her heart was bumping like crazy, she got pale…and I thought she will just fall down…she drank loads of water…I kindly asked the waiter to leave the food on the table, that we will come back, coz I needed to take Simona on the toilet…she didn’t know whether she will throw up or not…this was a beginning of our SA journey…not the best one, but we needed to go to doctor to see what was going on…Next ten days Simona was lying in a hostel and rarely went out …we went in the hospital…they checked her blood and did malaria test and as everything was ok, we went home…The next day she had the same attack so we went back to hospital…they took her in, gave her infusion and did many tests….she felt so weak, lying there on the bed in a room full of other people…she wanted for me to stay there with her, to hold her hand and massage her feet as she felt so cold…I was surprised because the more I massaged her feet, hands…she just didn’t warm up….weird…what’s wrong with her blood circulation …we were talking there, trying not to make a big deal out of the situation…when she started to cry….she didn’t know what was wrong with her and she wanted so much to be with her family….but soon after that, we were laughing so much, that I needed to close the curtain around her bed coz doctors would surely think she is healthy as ever, haahaa….Simona, it was just not your end…not even close….you have still so many things to do in your life, we will not let you go just like that, girl

We went back to our hostel where our friends, that we just met, were really nice to Simona…they were visiting her in the room, asking her if she needs anything, making her laugh….so there were times when me and Patrik or Nick came into her room and we just sat, talked and laughed…me and Nick also danced for her, ahhahaa….everything is recorded by our sick sister, hahaha…

On Saturday morning Simona, Nick and I went on a nearby open market where they were selling gemstones from all over Africa and Zulu jewelry and many other African things. Such a trip for your eyes :)…everything in such great colours…

When Simona got a little better we went to uShaka marine world to see big aquariums. UShaka Seaworld is the 5th largest aquarium in the world with 32 tanks totaling 17,500 cubic meters of water. The sea creatures found in the aquarium range from small sea horses all the way through to sharks and dolphins. A day spent there was great, I could just sit there on the benches inside that old wreck watching sea creatures passing by that window all day long….such a peaceful feeling…..poor animals trapped inside for people to watch them….hmm…I’m sure they would prefer freedom…

Time was running out so we needed to leave Durban…first we wanted to take a flight to Cape Town, our next destination from where we had flight back to Europe, but my credit card didn’t go through…later a lady called me from my bank that they don’t have an agreement between banks of my country and SA…ok, no problem, then we will catch a bus…not just a normal bus, but Buzz bus, hop-on hop-off, door-to-door backpacker bus service…which means they pick you up at your hostel…and leave you at your reserved hostel wherever you go…and whole route is touristically guided…we had a very funny driver, ahaha…we were three of us sitting in a bus in the beginning and he was telling us things in a very funny way, he was trying to lift us up, he was almost singing about which building are we passing by, which damn, which part of big South Africa…as it is divided to many provinces…trip was nice and comfortable…..maybe too comfortable for me and Simona, ahha…we just weren’t used of such traveling…watching the scenery passing by is always fun for me…so many different environments passed by….there were places with little huts…later on colourful little houses…then area with a forest similar to ours…then dry land …then ranch like places with lots of cattle and horses…and the environment was so similar to ours in a time of autumn….colourful trees and many conifers which we didn’t see in any country before…the good thing about traveling with Buzz bus was that we’ve seen almost every bay along the way to Cape Town, because we were stopping wherever people wanted to be picked up…so nevertheless we didn’t have time to see this country’s best spots, we’ve seen quite a few while traveling on this bus to Cape…

Trip took us 2 days, we made 1750 km, of course we needed to sleep in between in Port Elizabeth….but finally we arrived to Cape Town, amazing city…Warm. Wise. Beautiful. Moody. The Mother City. Cape Town has a personality to match every visitor and their every mood. The old part of town, City Bowl has the most spectacular city centre location in the world - at the foot of Table Mountain. Here is so many things that you can do, so there is no way this city could leave you cold. You can climb the Table Mountain, watch the Sun set and full Moon rise from the top of Lion’s head, swim, check nemo aquariums, walk through Gardens, see penguins in Simon’s town, learn to surf, Whale watch in False Bay, go to Vineyards …and so much more… here you can find huge African markets with tribal masks from all over the continent, with gemstones of any colour, carvings, zulu jewelry made out of beads…

Cape Town. Temperatures were not high anymore as in this month here is wintertime and we are now far from equator…they have seasons here like in our country, just in opposite timing. When we arrived it was raining and it was quite cold…we switched 2 hostels, 1^st one was not good coz the receptionist was so rude and didn’t want to take in also Italian family with a little kid that we’ve been traveling with, and the 2^nd one was too cold and too loud…so we found a nice place in the city center where we were going to spend our last days…Simona is still feeling bad, so she decides to stay in dormitory, and I went out to check the place a little bit and to see a doctor, I had an infection of a little finger on my foot :)…Long Street, the main street through Cape Town city centre is very interesting and colourful..you can meet people from all over the world, everything is very alive, African markets, coffee shops, open markets… wherever you go you can see great Table Mountain….beautiful… The next day we took a city trip on a double-decker red bus..hahaha..being turistical can be fun when u have no energy to run around on your own :)…we’ve seen all parts of Cape Town, Sea point, Green point, Waterfront, Table mountain from closer…after 2 days staying in Cape Town, Simona had to leave…she had a flight back…huhh, quite weird feeling for me actually…I was so used to spend each day with her for the last half a year….when I escorted her on the airport, we were quite late..and indian taxi driver was driving like a madman, ahaha..and we were laughing at the back…and I just said to him: “u can go slowly, no problem, she can also miss the flight!”..hahaha….but ya, we finally arrived to the airport…checked her in…and then what…time to say goodbye??…hmm….sad and happy feeling at the same time…to have such luck to share this trip with such a great person, it was like I won the lottery…we hugged each other, looked at each other….and just started to cry ….and laugh….and cry again, ahhaha….and cry again….and she had to leave  ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

I went slowly back to my taxi guy who was waiting for me for an hour…..and with mixed emotions I went back to town….in front of me was still a week on my own……I was walking around the city, trying to find last few things to bring to my people at home….and one day when I was going out of a cyber cafe I met an interesting guy from Zimbabwe, his name is Jo…he can see through people, and knows their life story without knowing them :)…walking through the streets knowing who will make a suicide today is quite a responsible thing to know….he is a guy who helps people a lot ….as I said, I met an interesting man…..I was telling him I would love to climb Table mountain, although I had no physical condition at that time….and he said mmm, wait, this is also on my list of things to do this year, haahaa…I can go with you, ahaha….so we agreed that the next day we go up there below the sky he said it’s just one hour walk to get to the top…so we took a van to get to the bottom of the mountain…everything was green, the wind was blowing a bit….and we started to walk uphill…for next 3 hours!!..hahaha…I must say it was not that easy, we were taking it slowly…and we talked with other people from all over the world a lot…we were all out of breath, laughing, enjoying the view….and started to put on extra pullovers and jackets, coz it was getting colder and colder, windier and windier….when we came to the top, it was all worth it!..the view from up there is magnificent…you can see all the way to Cape point, the southwestern part of Africa,  we could see 12 Apostols, Devil’s peak and Lion’s head…all parts of Cape Peninsula on the Southwestern tip of the African continent - is unquestionably one of the most beautiful places in the world.

As the cable to go down was closed because of the strong wind, we had to go down also by foot….down it was also hard to go, coz the knees just hurted a lot..if u imagine a neverending stairway down the hill :)…..me and Jo loved to spend time together, we had really good conversations about the world we live in, about reality and truth of this world …so the last few days we spent together….otherwise I was going on my own to African cinema called Labia, with very quality movies for a reasonable price….so I went there three times in the evenings and I’ve seen some really good movies…(I’ve loved you so long - about a woman who spent last 15 years in the prison ..now as she is released she needs to interact with people around her..very interesting….the next one was Kymatica - about evolution of human consciousness, you can watch it here: http://topdocumentaryfilms.com/kymatica/)

After few days spent on my own in the southern part of Africa continent, it also came time for me to leave…..last wave and goodbye my dearest place and great adventures and people that we met along our African journey….but for me life journey had just well begun….this is just the beginning of my so called LIFE….there is no time, no space…I will just see where life takes me….am looking forward to it…it is an unknown mistery, that’s why so interesting and challenging…only with listening to my HEART I can achieve great things…and so can you…we are all explorers on our own journey…there will be times when we cross paths with friends and foes, times when we hold hands and conquer obstacles together, but most importantly times when we just keep going it alone……journey continues…

“I haven’t a clue as to how my story will end. But that’s all right. When you set out on a journey and night covers the road, you don’t conclude that the road has vanished. And how else could we discover the stars?”
Nancy Willard

look up at the perfect skies and close your eyes,

With love,

eva

“So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more dangerous to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man’s living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.”
- Chris McCandless (Into The Wild)

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Še vedno smo v malem busku in drvimo iz Maputa proti Swazilandu. Tole državico bova nažalost le prevozili, čeprav naju zelo mika, da bi jo bolje raziskali. Vse revije jo prikazujejo kot čudovito in zelo prijazno državo. In že na meji je občutiti to prijaznost z uradniki. Še sreča, da ni treba plačati tranzitne vize :) Toda zopet naju malce zadržijo, saj ne vedo kje je Slovenija!?? Oh ja, zdaj sva tega že navajeni, zato se raje začneva kar hecat in rečeva, da prihajava iz države ljubezni (Country of Love) ha ha ha  Z Evo si že na Swaziland-ski strani zaželiva kave in nekaj za prigrizek, toda imava le Mozambiške meticals ali dolarje. Na mejnem prehodu ni menjalnice in tudi nikjer ni tistih, ki menjajo na črno. Ups, kaj bova storile s toliko Mozambiškega denarja? Pravijo, da se ga v Južni Afriki ne da zamenjati!!! Toda Ivory pravi, da se ga da v nekaterih bankah zamenjati, tako da se nekoliko pomiriva. Če pa se ne bo dalo pa se bova morali vrniti v Mozambik ha ha… Hiteči prodajalki za kavo in kruh ponudiva meticals in jih zavrne, nato ji ponudiva dolarje in jih tudi zavrne! Ja kaj naj zdaj, naj vrneva kavo in kruh, ker pač nimava južno afriškega denarja? Stvari vrneva nazaj, toda prodajalka se premisli in pravi, da naj kar vzameva in to brez plačila. Čeprav njen obraz ni bil prijazen se mi zdi, da je ta prijaznost kar spontano prišla iz nje. Za zamišljenim in hitečim obrazom se je skrivala dobra dušica. Vzameva kavo in kruh, ter ji nato pomolim še preostali bankovec dolarja. Ne vem, če si bo z njim lahko kako pomagala, kako bo z menjavo v banki, toda sigurno ga bo lahko prodala na črnem trgu.

Swaziland občudujeva le skozi okno. Ivory mi dela družbo na sprednjem sedežu, od kjer je širok razgled na vse strani in zopet pripoveduje zanimive zgodbe iz njegovega življenja. Voznik pa je nekoliko zadržan in vidim, da rabi nekaj več časa, da se bo navadil name in spoznal da nisem nikakršen beli bav bav ha ha

Pot nas vodi v hribe in narava me v enem trenutku spominja na Slovenske Haloze, le da manjkajo še vinogradi. In kaj hitro smo zopet na drugi strani meje, meje z Južno Afriko. Tale državica je res majhna skoraj primerljiva s Slovenijo. Obsega 17.362 km2 površine ter ima 1.185.000 milijona prebivalcev. No ja, malce pa smo večji in tudi številčnejši od nje:) Ob izhodu iz države se uradnik zopet zadrži pri naju in morava stopiti iz vrste ter na stran. Zelo je radoveden kje je ta Slovenija in kako zgleda, kaj delava tu, od kje potujeva itd. Takoj ga očarava in že drugi stavek je, da naj se kar preseliva v Swaziland :), da nama bo on dal zemljo in hišo. Zelo zelo prijazno in gostoljubno, toda trenutno nimava te želje, saj sva namenjeni v Južno Afriko.

V vstopu v Južno Afriko zopet ista pesem. Z Evo stopiva vsaka k svojemu okencu in mene uradnica kaj preveč ne zadržuje ter kar hitro da tisto potrebno štampiljko v potni list. Evo pa zopet nekaj masirajo in sprašujejo. Jaz jo čakam zunaj in poškilim v sobo, da preverim, kje je. Eva me pokliče in reče:« ej Simonc dej prit sem, ker spet neki težijo in mi nočejo dat štampiljke, ker morajo prej preveriti kje je Sloveniji.« Ha ha malce ji ponagajam in rečem, ok ti kr ostani tam jaz pa grem naprej pa pa :)  Toda vse se je srečno končalo, za državo Slovenski državljani ne potrebujemo vize do bivanja do treh mesecev. Čeprav nama ni bilo jasno zakaj sem jaz dobila štampiljko, da sem v državi lahko le en mesec, Eva pa kar dva ha ha… po kakšnem ključu izbirajo koliko časa bo kdo v dražvi, mi čedalje bolj postaja jasno: simpatičnost, beli zobje, širok nasmeh, velikost in prijaznost ha ha ha da ne bo kdo tega resno jemal

In končno smo od celodnevne vožnje le prispeli v Durban, veliko betonsko mesto, z visokimi stolpnicami in hrupnim prometom. Velika razlika od vsega prej. Postanem kar malce otožna in izgubljena. Nato sprašujeva kje je kakšno prenočišče in vsi se nama zdijo zelo neprijazni ali pa res nevedo. Odkimavajo z glavo ali pa celo gredo kar mimo. Tole pa je že mestno obnašanje ja ja… Ne najdeva ne taksija, ne pametnega mimoidočega, ki naju bi pravilo usmeril. Končno naju le nekdo usmeri proti hotelu, seveda zelo dragemu in razkošnemu, saj da najin videz vedeti,da sva beliki in turistki, ki imata veliko denarja. Ah ja, greva v hotel in tam osebje povprašava, če nama lahko pomagajo. Prijazna receptorka je poklicali taksi, da naju je zapeljal do hostla, ki je bil nekoliko odmaknjen od središča mesta. Zelo prijazno osebje, čisto druga pesem kot prej v središču mesta. Ustrežljivo osebje nama razkaže hostl, povedo vse potrebne informacije o mestu in so nama vedno na razpolago. Naporna pot je zanama in obe sva zelo utrujeni. Odpraviva se v najbljižji center s trgovinami in restavracijami, da dava še kaj v želodček. Veliko razkošje, sam blišč, ljudje hitijo po nakupih, sedijo na kavi in čvekajo ter naju preskenirajo od glave do pete, saj ne paševa po zunanjem izgledu v ta prostor. Ja pač nimava lepih oblekic, imava take, ki so nama najbolje služile na šestmesečni poti čez Vzhodno Afriko. Ko že naročiva najino hrano in se vsedeva za mizo, kar naenkrat začutim hitrejše bitje srca. Sprva ne dajem velike pozornosti oz. si ne želim delati prevelike panike. Toda to se ne ustavi, bitje zdaj čutim po celem telesu, nabijanje srca buta iz vratne žile, prsnega koša, vse močneje, da se mi telo začne tresti. Nasproti gledam Evo in jo prosim če mi prinese še pijače, saj sem moj liter in pol popila na dušek. Čisto zmedena sploh nevem kaj naj naredim… postajam vse šibkejša in občutek imam, da me bo zmanjkalo. Postanem čisto bleda in slabost je nemogoča. Ne že spet!!!! Od kje zdaj to!!! Je malarija, je zopet bronhitis ali kaj tretjega!!! Pijem kot zmešana, oči postajajo težke in vse težje tudi diham!!! Raje ne bom vsega opisovala do potankosti, ker verjamem, da niste zdravniki, da bi vi vedeli kaj mi je. Povedala bi rada le to, da kaj takega v življenju še nisem doživela in vseh nadaljnih deset dni je bilo zame pravi boj same s sabo ….Takoj sva odšle v bolnico, kjer so naredili različne preiskave, tudi test za malarijo in vse je pokazalo da je ok. Popolnoma sem zdrava in krvna slika je čudovita, zato grem lahko domov in sva tudi šle. Kaj drugega mi ni preostalo. V hostlu grem direktno v posteljo in se pokrijem z dvema kovtroma in dvema dekama, oblečena sem v nogavice, hlače in pulover, pa me je še vedno treslo od mraza! Vse je kazalo kot, da gre za malarijo, saj je mrzlica značilna pri tej bolezni. Nekako se nato le umirim in utrujenost pripomore k temu da zaspim. Zjutraj je vse skupaj nekoliko bolje. Toda napad se je popoldne zopet ponovil, zato sva odšle nazaj v bolnico, kjer sem zopet doživljala čudne reakcije mojega telesa. Ko čakam v dolgi vrsti na zdravnico, nasproti mene gledam kako neka ženska težko diha in ji dajejo kisik, pripeljejo zopet drugega bolnika, ki vpije in se duši ter kriči, obrnem pogled na stran, ter mimo pripeljejo verjetno mrtvega človeka, vsaj tako je zgledalo… pritisk v meni je vse večji in ne morem si več, da ne bi zajokala… v tem trenutku bi najraje bila doma, da bi bili ob meni vsi tisti, ki jih imam najraje, pa če to pomeni, da je to zadnjič ko jih vidim…Tam sva preživeli celo popoldne vse do poznega večera, dali so mi infuzijo, slikali pljuča, naredili ekg, ter zopet ponovili celotno krvno sliko. Ležim na postelji, ter infuzija teče v žilo, okrog mene so še drugi bolniki vsak za nekaj drugega. Evo prosim, da naj ostane z menoj in naj me drži za roko. Masira mi moje ledene noge, saj je celo telo kot bi bilo podhlajeno. Eva je edina, ki mi vliva upanja in me bodri s pozitivnimi mislimi. V tem trenutku sploh nevem ali ji verjamem ali ne, vem le, da je vseeno lepo poslušati nekoga ob sebi, ga imeti ob sebi in vse drugo sploh ni važno. V tem trenutku je važna prijaznost in toplina, Evina prisotnost, da veš, da imaš nekoga, ki mu ni vseeno, vse materialne stvari pa izgubijo pomen.

Zdravniki res ne vedo kaj naj z menoj, pravijo, da lahko ostanem v bolnici če takoj plačam 400 EUR-ov in pač kolikor časa bom tam mi bodo računali, ostalo razliko pa mi bodo vrnili nazaj. V tistem trenutku je nemogoče, da dam toliko denarja. In tudi če pomislim, kako mi lahko še pomagajo če ne vedo kaj mi je, je bolje da odideva nazaj v hostel, kjer se nato vsak dan borim, da preživim ha ha Smeh in prisotnost osebja v hostlu ter prijatelja Patrika in Nika mi zelo pomaga. Vsi mi dajejo upanja in skrbijo zame kot da sem njihova. Eva je zopet angelček, ki poskrbi, da vsak dan vsaj nekaj pojem in da mi je udobno. Podrobno ne bom opisovala vsega, saj lahko napišem par listov o vsem kar sem doživljala. Bilo mi je hudo, saj sva imeli še veliko planov, kaj vse si želiva videti in doživet. Južna Afrika je tudi čudovita država, zelo barvita in narava je tako zelo privlačna. Očitno me življenje želi naučiti, da moram poslušati sebe, upoštevati tudi telo v katerem sem ha ha Vse se zgodi z razlogom, pravim, in vem, da tudi ta izkušnja oz. preizkušnja je z razlogom. Mogoče tega še ne vidim v tem trenutku, ker se preveč oklepam simptomov, toda verjamem, da se bo na koncu vse razjasnilo. Ležim v postelji, na pogradu, se pravi drugi štuk :) in zvita v klopčič ter zrem skozi okno, skozi katerega me boža toplo sonce. Sprašujem se zakaj vse to, kaj je to ali bo vse uredu? Na vejo prileti golobček in gruli. Tako lepo ga je opazovati. Kmalu zatem prileti še eden, ki mu dela družbo le za kratek čas. Nato odleti, ter drugi ostaja in ostaja, na drobni vejici sedi in gleda v moje okno. Vsak premik, ki ga naredim ga pozorno opazuje, ter premika glavo, da lahko gleda enkrat z enim očesom drugič z drugim. Zaspim od utrujenosti in ko me zopet predrami sonček se ozrem skozi okno in tam je še vedno golobček, ki ni zatisnil očesa. Občutek je bil tak, kot da me nekdo resnično opazuje in pazi name. V tem trenutku mi je ptiček postal prijatelj. In verjela sem, da res pazi name in da bo z menoj vse vredu. Solza steče po licu in z mislimi potujem domov: »Kako bi zdaj rada objela vse moje doma in tudi psa.« ha ha in vem, da jih kmalu tudi bom!

In prvič sem dojela, da se včasih sploh ni potrebno premakniti, ter da ti ljudje in stvari kar same od sebe prihajajo. In teden dni preživet v hostlu je bil zelo zanimiv. Spoznali sva Patrika iz Švice, ki že skoraj celo življenje potuje in je že drugič na potovanju po Afriki. Tudi njega je prevzela in pravi, da jo je zanimivo raziskovati, sploh iz njegovega načina, saj snema zvoke Afrike. S seboj ima mali diktafon v katerega zabeleži zanimive pogovore, odmeve, zvoke narave in mimoidočih itd. In on je tudi najin rešitelj za vse tiste mozambiške meticals ha ha Prosile sva ga če mu jih lahko prodava in on nama da južno afriške rande. Bil je zelo prijazen in nama je prošnjo tudi z veseljem uresničil. Hvala Patrik! Nik pa je druga oseba, ki je bodrila nad menoj. Je iz Južne Afrike ter se ukvarja z bioenergijo in reiki-jem. Vsak dan je preveril če sem še živa ha ha mal mi je s svojimi šalami hotel dati upanja, da bi verjela, da bo vse ok. In verjamem, da je vse pomagalo, samo da se je nekaj dogajalo okrog mene, da sem imela res občutek, da sem še tu. Z Evo sta mi tudi zaplesala na Golici in smeh je kar odmeval vsepovsod.

In ker sem si tako zelo močno želela, da v Južni Afriki nakupim tudi kamne je tudi ta oseba prišla direktno v najino sobo in jaz sem lahko izbirala kar iz postelje. Res neverjetno, toda še en dokaz kako močne so lahko misli in resnične želje.

Bil je čas, da se počasi premakneva proti Cape Townu, saj mojega leta nisem mogla prestaviti oz. bi se dalo z veliko doplačila. S prva gledava če je možna letalska povezava Durban-Cape Town, kar bi nama prišparalo časa in tudi denarja. Toda nažalost ga ni. Zato se morava odpraviti kar z busom, kar nama bo vzelo dva dni celodnevne vožnje! Odločili sva se za Buzz Bus, ki je za turiste in te pobere kjer želiš ter zapelje do željenega mesta. Moči imam premalo, da bi šle na lokalni bus. Vem, da bi lahko s tem prišle v eni vožnji brez postanka, toda zopet bi bilo treba nositi vso to težko prtljago, vzeti taksi itd… Buzz Bus naju zgodaj zjutraj ob peti uri pobere, ter se odpravimo ob obali navzdol. Z Evo se smejiva vozniku, saj je prav smešen s svojim razlaganjem, ter točnim urnikom postankov, kje, kdaj bo kosilo, koliko časa bo pavza, tudi za lulat itd. Vse točno natančno splanirano joj joj…v šestih mesecih potovanja nisva doživeli takega luksuza in udobja… Med potjo se je voznik oglašal po zvočniku in govoril mimo katere stavbe gremo, kraja in kaj je tu posebnega. S svojim glasom je skušal biti smešen. Midve sva se vseeno smejali, saj nama je bilo to tako tuje in seveda hkrati smešno. Prej potovati na odprtem kamionu, se pogajati za ceno, zdaj pa naju nosijo po rokah…

In kljub temu, da si nisva mogli vzet časa, da bi obiskali Zulu land in pleme Zulu, ter raziskati vse kotičke te dežele, se je izplačalo potovati z Buzz Busom. Ta naju je popeljal res v vsak kotiček obale od Durbana do Cape Towna. Pa še to, ni se nama bilo potrebno tlačiti na sedežih busa, zdaj sva imeli ves bus zase ha ha Sem pa tja je pristopil kak potnik in že čez dobro urco ali dve smo ga dostavili na željeno mesto. Midve pa edine, ki sva se peljali na tako dolgi relaciji. Pa nima veze, vsaj tako sem lahko med vožnjo počivala in spala na sedežih. Prespimo v Port Elizabeth in ker si nisva rezervirali hostla, je za naju poskrbel voznik, ter nama našel hostl. Da si je treba potovanje in spanje organizirati vnaprej, tega nisva bili vajeni, zato nama je tudi tole všlo. Zjutraj je voznik celo pozabil na naju in bus je že odpeljal proti Cape Townu ha ha še tega se je manjkalo… toda ni vrag, da se ne bi izšlo v najin prid! In ni bilo pol urce, ko je voznik  le prišel nazaj. Uf!! Sva si odahnile. Pokrajina je bila nekje zelo suha in na njej so se pasle krave, ovce in konji. V Južni Afriki je zima in seveda to pomeni, da je malo dežja in temperature niso več tako visoke. Pozno zvečer smo končno prispeli v Cape Town in naj vam povem, da sem bila tako utrujena, da bi najraje kar padla v posteljo in zaspala. Zunaj je padal dež in bilo je grozno mraz. Vse kar sem imela na sebi je bilo premalo. Prava zima! Prvi hostl ni bil ok, gospod je bil zelo neprijazen in je tudi zavrnil najina prijatelja iz Italije, ki sta imela malega otročička, da ne morejo biti tam, ker hostl ni za otroke. Kaj takega!!! Zato vsi skupaj spokamo in gremo drugam. Tu prenočimo le eno noč in zjutraj se vsi zopet strinjamo, da gremo drugam ha ha Spali sva v kleti in v zgornjem štuku je bilo slišati korake in glasove. Zato zamenjamo hostl in v tretje gre rado tu bo ok, čeprav se v najini sobi ni dalo zapreti okna! Tu bom le dve noči, zato ne bom komplicirala, bom pač spala oblečena in zopet pod dvema odejama in kovtroma ha ha

Očitno me je pot kar dobro zdelala, zato z menoj ni nič in cel dan prespim, Eva pa odide k zdravniku, saj se ji je zagnojih mali mazinček. Odločim se, da kar sama začnem jesti antibiotike, škoditi mi ne more in res po zaužitju štirih mi je bilo nekako bolje, zato sem bila sposobna, da greva z Evo vsaj na kratek izlet po mestu. Ogledali sva si ga z dvonadstropnim busom, takšnim, ki vozi po Londonu in na žalost je bilo premalo časa, da bi se povzpeli tudi na Blue Mountain…pa drugič :) Cape Town je lepo mesto, vsaj kolikor časa sem ga imela možnost spoznati in raziskati. Zadnji dan sva si vzeli še za nakupe in obiske trgovin. In kaj hitro je bil že čas, da grem na letališče. Zabavni taksist naju še v zadnjih skupnih trenutkih zelo zabaval. Z avtomobilom smo šivigali v ulice, vozil je po nasprotnem pasu, se vrival med avtomobile, saj je želel, da v vsej tej gneči ne zamudim letala. In midve sva se smejali…ter Eva ga je hecala, da ni panike, saj Simona vedno zamudi letalo ha ha ha… misli imajo veliko moč, tako da jih takoj prekliči ha ha ali pa tudi ne, saj bi najraje nadaljevala najino potovanje še naprej v Namibijo in ostale države Afrike :)… pa ob drugi priliki, ki zagotovo bo. Čas ne obstaja, zato se bom prepustila toku, ki me bo vodil skozi to življenje…

Še zadnji objem, pogled v oči, sprva nasmeh na obrazu in nato solze………………….. zavedava se, da to ni konec, je le del življenja, ki se nadaljuje…….. :)………….

Življenje je potovanje od rojstva do smrti, od prvih do zadnjih korakov, od prvega joka do zadnje solze, od začetka do konca, od do…..je življenje v tej obliki, na tem planetu…življenje je potovanje več kot to, je potovanje fizične osebe, prahu in duše…je neskončno potovanje skozi vse to in še več :) je potovanje v neznano, ki nas vleče naprej………………………………………………

By now we changed currency in every country that we’ve been to, Mozambique is no exeption. Here they use meticais and an obverse side of a coin for 1000 meticais has almost the same coat of arms as the one we used to have in our former country, SFRJ (Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia). The only difference is that SFRJ had six torches surrounded by wheat and burning together in one flame which represented brotherhood and unity of the six republic forming Yugoslavia and on top of it red star (represent socialism). Mozambique has the same red star on top of it and beside wheat the coat of arms has also sugar cane, inside of both is an AK-47 (defence), a hoe (agriculture) and a book (education), plus red sun representing building a new life.

Mozambique was explored by Vasco da Gama in 15th century and later on inhabited by Portuguese and became independent in 1975. Afterwards they had a civil war for 15 years (1977-1992).

And now, enough general information about the country…I must say as I love Brasil, I expected quite similar atmosphere in this country. I have no problems with Portuguese, so our communication with people was good.

This time we were really good at obtaining visa, coz we got it already in Mozambique embassy in southern city of Malawi, Blantyre. There was no problem and this time visa was really cheap. We decided to travel a long way through Mozambique to a coastal place named Vilanculos. Already a little bit tired we prepared ourselves for a few day journey. We took a little van to go all the way to the border of Mozambique. On the border we had to change the currency, we still had some Malawian kwatcha. We were walking around trying to see where is Mozambiquean side of the border, we had been just through Malawian side so far. So we asked a white guy in a parked jeep outside how far is the entrance border of Mozambique. As he was there also for the first time he had no idea, but told us he can take us there. He just waited for us to change the money and after that we sat down on a cosy seats in his car and together with his local business friend went towards the border. This is how we got to know Monty, a man from South Africa, who lived his life already in Zimbabwe and now in Mozambique. He is working in agriculture business, trying to advise people and companies how to produce crops. First we thought he will just take us to the border about 6 km away, but when he heard about our direction, he invited us to travel with him all the way to his home, Chimoio, halfway to our destination. We were really lucky to meet him as traveling with him was so easy for us, so comfortable, cheap  and fast Thank you Monty, you helped us a lot! This is how our journey through Mozambique has started, with lots of good vibes and good luck! Huuh, we were aready high, so many things just happened in our favour already , that’s how life should be lived…to believe in good and be positive every single day…things easily happen like that

After few hours of driving we came to a bridge over river Zambezi, 4^th largest river in Africa which spreads through 6 countries. Afterwards we stopped in Tete where we had after a long time European kind of lunch. It looked like this…when I stepped out of a car there were street kids begging for money…then we went to a (for Africa) very fancy restaurant with lots of different food, with different types of bread, cakes, salads, coffees…everything was just there…we were quite surprised…everything so nice and neat, people seemed half European…food was good and so was the bill, prices like in Europe…when we stepped outside of a restaurant came to me a little girl, she was obviously living on the street….as I didn’t give her any money, she wanted to take few empty plastic bottles that she saw in Montys car…we kindly gave her those and she seemed very happy and she thanked us many times…this is how kids try to survive, they try to sell those bottles…what a childhood, comparing to mine which was with nothing to worry about…slowly we went out of Tete towards a coastal side of Mozambique. When we drove away from Tete to nearby villages, the situation got completely different…all that luxury turned into huge poverty…outside of the city people live in really small huts, the smallest me and Simona seen on our way, they must have about 2 square meters of space, kids were poorly dressed, trying to reach their hands to cars that were passing by…they though that someone will actually stop and give them something…anything…of course you would love to help, but situations like this never end in Africa…there’s just too many kids that need basic care, food and clothes…or better lots of love!….you just can’t save the world, although it would be great to have such power!

…on our way we passed a funeral caravan …many people in the middle of the street, singing and carrying the coffin, women at the back were crying and two men in front quite drunk with bottle of something strong in their hands…they were waving with their hands, not really in balance, ahhaha…trying to direct cars that were passing by….

In the evening we arrived to Chimoio, Monty took us to the first ATM to get some Mozambique currency (meticais) and later to a nice hostel named Pink Papaya, where we stayed for one night in our own trailer, this was our ‘room’ :)… what a great idea, it was really nicely equipped….we slept just few hours, because the next day we had to wake up at 5 a.m. to catch a van to a crossroad outside of town…from there we were supposed to get a transport to Vilanculos, our next destination on the coast….we were walking along the road for some time…then we asked people standing beside the road when does the bus arrive and they replied that they actually don’t know…could be in an hour or five hours or not even today… there is no bus schedule, they just wait beside the road….just when we decided to wait beside the road with them, 3 other travelers called us from the other side of the road to join them and travel with a huge truck…First I was a little bit skeptical, is this safe…but another second we were already running on the other side of the street, climbing the stairs to a truck’s cabin…it looked this could be a great experience! As I went in the last one, I had the best seat in the cabin - beside the driver with a great view of the surrounding :)…happy times…and a driver was really nice and talkative….he spends most of his time on the street, driving cargo through many different countries of Africa….as his truck was really overloaded, we were moving really slowly…with 4 passengers at the back, from different countries of the world, with interesting and funny conversations, the journey didn’t take ages…as it seemed we will need for about a week to get to Vilanculos, ahaha, coz we drove really really slowly, I was surprised when early in the afternoon we were already in Vilanculos…so again we were lucky with the transport, cheap and comfortable ride :)…thumbs up! Our driver stopped the truck again on crossroads, of course he had to go his way, not towards the beach as we planned…so we said goodbye and me and Simona were trying to find a small van to take us to Vilanculos, a little town on the beach…uuff, but these Africans are sometimes full of shit…the man in charge of that van was trying to rip us off, ahahha…as we are good in bargaining and we already knew the price of a transport to the beach, he shocked us with a really high price…like really high,…ahahaha…we took our backpacks out of a van, because when you come close to the van they just take your stuff and start putting it into the vehicle…coz this man was so determined about his high price, we were even more determined not to go with him…we rather hitchhike…there is for sure going to be another opportunity for us to go to the beach…we took our backpacks and started to walk away, when this guy changed his mind…we gave him lecture about how wrong it is to make a difference in price just because of a colour of the skin…when the van was full, we start driving to the beachside…but what happens next, ahhaa…halfway there a driver stops the van and says that me and Simona need to pay more, otherwise we need to go out right now…..we were surprised by how greedy they were, we started to laugh and said that OF COURSE, we will pay, ahhaha…we finally arrived somewhere close to our destination…we gave them a little coin of money and left the van…they expected more, but with that kind of behaviour, I don’t think so….

We needed to find a place to sleep, so we were walking around small town through sandy paths when the sun was shining properly…really tired we bumped in a dormitory of a backpackers place…it felt good to have a ‘home’ again, where you can relax, wash yourself and have needed peace. Vilanculos is a place with long and sandy beaches where you could just lie around all day long and do nothing….but that’s not what we wanted…one day of rest was more than enough for us to regain energy for next adventures, things just started to happen again…..Already in mountains of Malawi (Livingstonia) we’ve seen a Mozambiquean magazine with a fantastic house, that I felt it as my dream house…I asked owner of that place if I can take that magazine, but as it was not allowed, I took a picture of a picture of that house in that magazine to remember exactly what kind of a house do I want :)…But what happened here was amazing…They had the same magazine here in our hostel…of course with the same house inside..hmmm, this is starting to get interesting… I started to read about that house and I was shocked when I read that this house is in exactly the same place where we were at that time…in Vilanculos! ..that was the end of our ‘resting’, we needed to find that house!..our next mission, hahahaa….the only information we got from the waiter of our hostel was, that this house is on the opposite side of beach resort….We tried our luck and just went towards the center of this little town, to find a transport to that place..just when we got closer to the crossroad, one kid selling airtime for telephone on the street stopped us and asked us what do we need…in the moment when we said to him, that we need a transport to that resort, a vehicle (pick up truck) stopped on the crossroad with the name of that resort on the door….uau!!!, that was fast, we just started to laugh, couldn’t believe what was going on and run to the driver and asked  if we can go with him…of course there was no problem, first we went into the market and later to that resort….and my dream house was standing next to it

We came closer to that house with open doors everywhere, few people around, there were also workshops for local women to do jewelry out of beads..and everything seemed really open and warm…In that house live Snowy nad Sandy, a couple from South Africa that traveled the world, have been working in areas you can only imagine, from cleaning, cooking, selling….they took any job available…later they decided to stay in Mozambique where they made that house out of wood and clay, with a straw roof…in warm yellow colours, so nice and so spacious. They made it by themselves..and the interior is really amazing….everything made out of natural materials, everything so simple…their bath is outside of the house, so they take a bath under the sky, under the stars….beautiful! The couple is so nice, they showed us all the rooms in the house, there were two dogs and a cat walking around it and few tourist that came to visit them…no problem if they have few guests per day …such a great attitude! Afterwards Sandy took us back to town, coz she went to the airport to pick up few friends…everything went so smooth that I remembered Paulo Coelho’s philosophy: “when you really want something to happen, the whole universe conspires so that your wish comes true”. SO TRUE

Time for moving has come, this time to Tofo Bay. At 5 a.m. we went on a van towards Tofo Bay…journey was long and in the late afternoon we came to a place where we needed to continue our journey on a boat. The only option was a boat, because it’s the fastest way to get to Inhambane and from there to Tofo Bay. If the sea is still, you can go to Inhambane by boat, otherwise with a bus. So….it was starting to get dark and we were in the middle of nowhere, didn’t know exactly where to go, when a guy approached us and helped us to show us the way and accompanied us to the boat…The boat was quite full of people, too much people on board of course, which is normal for Africa …when the boat was completely full, we started to move….the waves were quite big in my opinion, the water was entering the boat from top….people starting to get wet, ahaha..but its ok, its warm and everything will be just fine :)…people were relaxed, laughing, talking, some went to work on the other side of the bay…but after some time we stopped in the middle of the sea….what happened, did we run out of fuel or what?…no?…so what?…..why aren’t we moving??….c’mon, somebody tell me! :)…..well, the boat got stucked on the spot because of the low water …people were not worried at first, some of them shouted they want the money back…me and Simona were just observing what was going on….in the dark, stucked in the middle of the sea, with crowd of mozambiquean people, ahahahaa…….what an experience!…people were at times silently aware of our situation, later they were laughing about the same situation…when the driver didn’t succeed in turning the boat with an engine, two guys decided to go in the water and help to move the boat with their own hands and force…one of them was in a dress, with a white shirt on…he just started to take his nice clothes off and went to help the other guy who was already in the water, just in an underwear…this is how people help people around here…this guy could just sit there like everybody else and do nothing….he payed a ticket for the trip, his work was not to save the situation….but he did…..after half an hour or so, we started to move again…relaxed that now we are on the right track, we finally reached our destination, Inhambane. Because the hour was already late, we needed to sleep in that place…in a hostel named Olinda, which has the same name as a town near Recife in Brasil where I spent a lot of my time….hmmm, why everything reminds me so much of Brasil

The next day we finally arrived to Tofo Bay, a beautiful place on a sandy beach, where you can see whales coming out of the water. Many things about animal life in waters we found out from a man we met the same second we stepped off the bus. His name is Ivory. What a coincidence (or not really, ahhha), this guy was staying in the same place where we wanted to sleep. So he showed us the way. He is from England, a cook by profession, but the last 27 years he lived in different countries of Africa. He is a master in diving, this is how he earns money around here, he teaches people how to dive safely. He became also a biologist, not through official education, but he learned everything by himself. He has a great knowledge of marine life and life of mangrove, he also takes people to mangrove and he was attending in many documentaries. That’s the way to go! Why would you do the same thing that you studied all your life, ahaha…this especially sounds good to me as I am interested in too many things

He was telling us interesting stories about the whales and mating of octopus. He was talking about water animals with such passion, that thrilled me…huuh, I want also to start diving, although I am afraid of the water pressure under the sea….but this sounds so interesting! He told us how do octopuses mate, the story was very emotional… Octopuses prefer to live alone and come together only during the mating season. Male octopus starts to make a beautiful garden for her woman from little shiny stones, little shells…He is making and preparing this garden with his passionate heart with all the details for weeks, until is beautiful enough for his mate. After everything is prepared, he brings his darling to his lovely garden…where they sit first quite far from each other and then in a very shy way, male starts to become closer..and closer…in a very humble and shy way…probably blushing while doing it :)..he touches her with his ‘arms’, gently hugs her and so on…trying to come closer…they change their colours together and enjoy the mating part…..how beautiful….but when they start to mate properly everything is done really fast…male gives his sperm in a modified arm under the female mantle…Female change colour to black, sprays the man with an ink and goes away….What an interesting life of octopus!

Ivory told us many interesting things also about sperm-whales, they are the biggest toothed animals and can grow up to 20 metres, their weight is about 4 tons. They have a cosmopolitan character, they are spreaded across the world’s oceans. They feed themselves in the open sea of polar waters, far away from the coast, but they come to tropic seas to mate. In tropic waters they also jump out of the water and make amazing water dance. Nature is just magnificent!

In the place where we slept, I survived the encounter with rats during the night. We were sharing a dorm together with Ivory on double beds. I was sleeping on the bottom one, Simona on top…and during one night I freaked out when I sensed that there is one animal lying with its fur beside my arm, and when I moved, another one run away from top of my legs…aaaaa, ahahhaa…that was not so funny, ahahha…I couldn’t sleep for quite some time…had a mosquito net over my head and tried to stuck it below my mattress, so there wont be no space for rats to come back…Simona was laughing at me, telling me to come and sleep with her on top, ahhaa…and Ivory didn’t mind, he was snoring and enjoying his beauty sleep, ahaha…. I just wanted to share also that part of traveling with all of you, ahahha…rats might happen every now and then

In few days we decided to go to Mozambique capital, Maputo. You can sense a latino atmosphere in this town, music is a mixture of brasilian and African…and the language is just beautiful We tried to get good contacts of any kind of organizations also here, but as there was none, we just relaxed ourselves and try to go with a flow…In the evening we went into cultural center to see a theatre play, which was really good and after it we had a great concert at the same place…but when we came back to our hostel, in our dorm, there was a guy lying next to our double bed, saying: ‘Hi girls!’…and we were shocked…we were about 700 km from Tofo Bay and here he was…our friend Ivory again, ahahhahaa….that’s really crazy!..and we met each other in the same hostel among plenty in big Maputo! Then he explains us that he decided to leave Mozambique and go to South Africa, because his ‘African’ father died…and he was moving to South Africa with everything he had…a backpack and few bags of diving equipment…that’s it!..no complications…we all know how little we need to live this life to the fullest!…the less you have, the better, less attached you are to things, places…and even people….the better….people who travel will understand what am I talking about….Ivory knows that very well and his next destination after South Africa is going to be Egypt…he will pack his few things and just go there, explore and LIVE…..complete freedom, no limitations!!!  WHAT A LIFE!

“Just living is not enough… One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.”
~ Hans Christian Andersen ~

With lots of love,

eva

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…Fale Portugues (govoris Portugalsko)…je bilo vprasanje na vsakem koraku v najini naslednji drzavi potovanja, Mozambiku. O zgodovini drzave se ne bom prevec razpisala, le to, da so tu bili kolonisti Portugalci in ne Britanci, zato je uradni jezik Portugalscina. Pestile so jo stevilne vojne, kot tudi drzavljanska, ki je trajala 15 let. Za Mozambik pravijo, da je dezela smeha, pa da vidimo

Tokrat na meji nisva imeli nobenega problema, saj sva si vizo zrihtali ze v Malawiju, na Mozambiski ambasadi. Bilo pa je nekoliko tezje zopet potovati vse od severa Mozambika in vse do najinega naslednjega postanka Villanculosa, ki lezi ob morju. Psihicno pripravljeni, da zmoreva tole potovanje, ki bo trajalo nekje tri dni, se vsedeva na busek vse do meje. Po obicajnih formalnostih na Malawijski meji je nato bilo potrebno priti do Mozambiske meje, ki pa je bila oddaljena dobrih 6 km. Malce se motoviliva in tocno neveva kje lahko zmenjava se zadnje Kvače (Malawijski denar), zato vprasava prvo vozilo, katerega voznik je bil beli clovek. Prijazno naju usmeri v smer menjalnice, ter pravi, da lahko naju pocaka, da zamenjava denar, ter tako zapelje do meje. Ja itak :)  hitro veseli zamenjava denar in nato horuk v veliki prostorni in  udobni jeep :)….. viiii in smo sli.

Monty prijazni voznik iz Juzne Afrike, ki je nekaj casa zivel tudi v Zimbabweju in zdaj v Mozambiku, kjer ima veliko farmo krompirja in svetovalnico, kako pravilno saditi krompir, da bo kar najbolje obrodil. Zraven njega je sedel njegov pomocnik, domacin iz Mozambika. Zadaj pa midve, na vsaki strani okna, udobno namesceni opazujeva mimobezeco pokrajino. Nato meja in zopet formalnosti in ze ko sva mislili, da bova morali nekje najti busek, se prijazni Monty ponudi, da lahko z njim potujeva vse do sredine Mozambika, kjer je doma. To je cisto noro, prisparali bova na casu in denarju, kar je seveda zelo super in smo zopet sli viiiiii… cist noro, kako se je zacelo odvijati tole potovanje po Mozambiku…

Prispeli smo po nekaj urah voznje v prvo vecje mesto Tete, kjer smo se okrepcali v zelo fini restavraciji. Vse cisto, spedenano v nulo, na polickah razni prigrizki, tortice, sendvici, kava itd… prvi utis…to je Mozambik…:) lep, zelo na visokem nivoju in tudi cene so bile temu primerne, prevec visoke za najine denarnice!!! Nato zopet hop v avto in nadaljujemo voznjo. Ze za prvim ovinkom mene dobesedno sezuje! Prbije me direktno v srce! Tisti blisc, ki smo ga doziveli ravno prej se je spremenil v KAJ??? Male hiske dva kvadratna metra prostora, pokrite s slamnato streho, povsod okrog rdeckasti pesek, mali otrocki, bosi in nekaj cunj na sebi,… prvic v celi Afriki, da sem zacutila taksno veliko razliko, taksen velik razkorak med bogatimi in ravnimi, le korak oddaljeni pa nimajo skoraj nic! Otrpela sedim v avtu in gledam skozi okno…sploh nevem ali sem zalostna ali le zamisljena! Zdi pa se mi, da sem kot pribita na sedez in me bo res tezko premakniti se kakih par ur!
Pokrajina siba mimo okna, lepa je, cudovita je, nekje zelo suha, tudi nacrtno pozgani travniki in gozdovi, za boljso rast novih rastlin… zdaj se ze navadim na vse te male hiske, katerih nisem videla v celi Afriki, tu so res veliko manjse kot prej v drugih drzavah. Vidi se, da je ta del zelo reven. Ob cesti stojijo otroci z iztegnjeno roko, ter skusajo ustaviti mimovozece avtomobile, da bi dobili kak dinar ali stvar, vodo ali pac karkoli samo da nekaj je. Srecamo se gruco ljudi, ki na ramenih nosijo trugo, zadaj vidim jokajoce se zenske, spredaj pa hodita dva moska, nekako levo desno, ter v roki drzita steklenico necesa ocitno mocnega, saj je videti, da jima je ze kar dobro stopilo v glavo! Mahata avtomobilom ter usmerjata promet.
Ustavimo se, da preckamo most in ko pogledam na desno skozi moje okno zagledam nabodene spizme, misi ali karkoli ze so, neki plazilci se s svojo kosmato kozo!! Bljaki, zame, toda za njih dobra hrana!

Pozno zvecer le prispemo v Chimoio, kjer nama Monty zrihta prenocisce v hostlu v srediscu mesta. Za transport za drugi dan pa se bova morali znajti kar sami, saj jutri ne pelje avtobus do Villanculosa. Ah ni problema, Monty naju oskrbi z dobrimi informacijami, tako da veva kje bova poiskali prevoz. Zahvaliva se mu za lepo in prijetno voznjo, za vso prijaznost ter mu zazeliva sreco. Tudi on je bil vesel, da naju je spoznal in tako povabil, ce se se kdaj mudiva v njegovi drzavi, da ga morava sigurno obiskati Seveda Monty!

Noc prespiva v manjsi prikolici ha ha, ki je del hostla. Portugalsko sicer ne znam in imam sreco, da jo moja Eva obvlada :)Nekaj se ze zmenim, kaksne besede so podobne Spanscini in jih  nekako povezem, sicer pa imam zelo dober posluh oz. obvladam govorico telesa, tako da vecino casa kar vem o cem govorijo oz. kaj hocejo od mene. Se jo bo pa treba pocasi zacet kar ucit! Jezik mi je ze zelo dolgo casa zelo vsec, tako da z velikim veseljem. Hm hm… Fale Portugues…

Dobro jutro, zgodaj zjutraj ob petih, vstaneva odideva na mali busek vse do glavnega krizisca, kjer je lazje dobiti avtobus ali kako mimoidoce vozilo. Po krajsi hoji ob cesti le vprasava ce je tu mozno dobiti avtobus. Mimoidoci ljudje pravijo da je, toda nevedo kdaj bo avtobus prisel mimo, lahko da cakamo eno uro ali pa stiri. Aha tole pa je kar razlika! Se ne premisliva dobro, naju trije popotniki iz razlicnih drzav povabijo ce greva z njimi v tovornjak in da si delimo stroske, ki jih zahteva voznik. Ja itak, tole bo fajna avantura! Eva je sicer malce zadrzana in se kar obotavlja ali bi sla gor ali ne… zato jaz pogumno splezam notri in Eva se nato udobno namesti na prvem sedezu zraven voznika, odkjer ima razprostrani razgled na vse strani. Mi stirje pa se stlacimo zadaj in uzivamo v zelo zelo pocasni voznji ha ha Ce bomo se danes prisli v Villanculos bo veliko veselje, saj tale tovornjak je preobtezen in zato ne more voznik stopiti po gasu… zato se raje sprostimo ter uzivamo v zelvji voznji ha ha….zabave je bilo veliko…

No ja, pa smo le prispeli. Na kriziscu nas vrze ven in nato se nekaj minutk z malim buskom do obale. Toda tile Mozambicani mi na prvi utis niso prav nic vsec! Dobro veva o ceni, katero morava placati do obale, toda voznik vztraja o 4x visji ceni!!! Ni sans, vztrajne sva in izstopiva iz buska, ne bodo z nama tako ravnali. No in nato se premisli in naju vseeno vzame notri. Toda kaj, ko nama sredi poti, sredi nicesar ustavi in rece da morava placati vec, drugace naj greva kar ven!!! Groza! Pa tole nama res prav nic ni vsec! Nekako se zmenimo o malce visji ceni, jaz pa mu na koncu kar prikimam, ja ja bova placali, in Evi pravim ja pa kaj se ha ha… na koncu sva res placali le se kovancek vec, ter popokali najina ruzaka in sle same poiskat zeljeno destinacijo, hostl kjer bova prenocili. Na poti do hostla naju ze obleta mladina, ter ponuja vse zivo, vstaviva se da kupiva se sadje, katerega zopet zelijo prodati po 4x vecji ceni… ni sans, trmaste bova raje lacne kot, da kupiva tako drago sadje!!! Koncno hostl in bum na posteljo, zmatrani rabiva mir in pocitek!

Villanculos obmorsko mestece, ki vabi z dolgo pesceno plazo, kjer bi se clovek najraje zleknil in vrgel vse stiri od sebe ter delal prav nic ha ha…. midve z Evo pa kljub temu, da rabiva vsaj en dan pocitka, ne storiva tega, ter slediva znamenjam, ki nama jih kaze pot… Ze v Malawiju se je Eva zagledala v eno hisko, ki je bila naslikana v eni izmed revij. Jaz ji nisem posvecala prav velike pozornosti, saj sem rekla, da tako hisko ima tudi eden v Sloveniji in da jo lahko greva tja pogledat. Zato pozabiva na hisko. Toda zdaj zopet Eva v reviji zagleda to hisko in ne da ji miru, da ne bi zacela brati kje sploh je. In ne boste verjeli ta hiska je tu v Villanculosu ha ha … zato ne moreva vreci vse stiri od sebe, zato je potrebno iti v raziskovanje kje je ta pravljicna hiska… in sva sle, se prepustili toku. Stopiva na cesto, da bi nasle prevozno sredstvo, ki naju bi popeljajo do tja.. toda hm v katero smer???… pristopi fantek in vprasa kam greva danes, ko ze pomislim, oh ne spet tezit in nama sledit, mi drobni glasek rece vprasaj in ze v istem trenutku bleknem kam bi rade sle… in fantek se obrne, ter pokaze z roko na mimoidoce vozilo in rece: «Ta avto gre tja«…avto se vstavi, da bo preckalo cesto in to midve izkoristiva ter steceva tja, ter vprasava ce gre do Snowy in Sandy…seveda grem in tudi napis na avtu z velikimi crkami da nama vedeti, da je res pravi ha ha… lahko receva kaksno nakljucje, lahko pa je to dokaz, ce si nekaj res mocno zelimo to tudi dobimo :) ha ha

Snowy in Sandy imata cudovito hisico narejeno z naravnimi in recikliranimi materiali. Pokrita pa je s slamo. Detajli so res nekaj posebnega. Les in glina, ter tople barve naredita prijeten prostor. V zgornjem prostoru imata manjso trgovinico z drobnimi izdelki, katere delajo lokalne zenske in s tem jim omogocata prezivetje. Kaj vse lahko naredi cloveska roka, kako enostavno in uporabno. Turisti jih radi obiskujejo, saj sta bila vcasih tudi onedva velika popotnika in sta se na potovanjih prezivljala z marsicem. Po ogledu se Sandy ponudi, da naju lahko zapelje nazaj v mesto, saj je na poti na letalisce. Kako prilcno vse skupaj. Hisica naju je zelo prevzela in v prihodnosti si tudi midve zeliva narediti kaj podobnega.

Cas za naprej, nasljednji postanek Tofo Bay. Zopet voznja v nabasanem busku. Ura je ze pozno popoldne in sonce gre pocasi ze za obzorje. Tofo Bay pa je oddaljen se par urc voznje. Prijazni fant pristopi in nama zeli pomagati, saj vidi, da se vrtiva v krogu in neveva kje nadaljevati pot. Pospremi naju vse do colnov, ki gredo na drugo stran. Pravi, da je to najhitrejsa pot do najine destinacije, ce zeliva po kopnem bo trajalo se celi dan. Ja in kaj nama ostane drugega, kot da se ukrcava na nabasan mal colnicek, ki ga voda premetava sem ter tja. Kaj kmalu izplujemo in mrak je ze tu, ter veter na sredini zacne vse mocneje prematavati nas colnicek. Priznam na trenutke sem pomislila tudi na to, da se lahko prekucnemo in seveda kako bova midve z Evo resile vso najino prtljago ha ha… Toda ostajam skulirana in mi premetavanje ne povzroca slabosti, kot ponavadi. Voda sprica v nas colnicek vse dokler se ne ustavimo, toda saj nismo prispeli do obale, smo na sredini morja!!?? Je zmanjkalo bencina? Ha ha nasedli smo ha ha… Sofer se skusa z vso silo odlepiti od dna, premikamo se za centimeter, na colnu rata prepir, en cez drugega vpijejo v Portugalscini!!! Vprasava, ce je to obicajno, da se takole nasede in dobiva odgovor, da se jim je to zgodilo prvic! Oooo prvic!? Hm…kaj nam ostane, kot da ostanemo mirni in cakamo na pomoc ali da se nekako sami skusamo resiti. In traja in traja zunaj pa ze cista tema! Nekaj moz se zrtvuje, ter slece lepe obleke, zaviha rokave ter se podajo v vodo, da porinejo barko nazaj v globine. Ljudje se nekako umirijo, na trenutke nastane cista tisina, nato zopet kratek smeh in mozje pridno potiskajo barko. Se mi zdi, da je vse skupaj trajajo celo vecnost, izgubila sem obcutek za cas, toda uspelo nam je oz. jim je ha ha ter smo zapluli naprej, po drugi poti, vse okrog do nasega koncnega cilja. V Inhambane smo prispele prepozno, zato sva morali tu prenociti ter sele naslednje jutro oditi naprej proti Tofo Bay.

Cudotiva pescena in zelo dolga plaza, s pogledom na odprto morje, kjer lahko z dobrim ocesom opazis kite, kako se mecejo ven iz morja ter tolcejo ob vodo s svojimi velikimi plavutmi. In to sem tudi dozivela. Z obale kjer sem cakala soncni zahod sem opazila skok enega izmed kitov, ki je ravno skocil iz vode ter zamahnil z repom. Nato sem jih se dobre 20 minut opazovala kako so plavali ob obali in nato na odprto morje. Mogocne zivali, tako zanimive, da bi jih lahko gledala in gledala. O podvodnem svetu sva izvedeli se veliko vec, saj sva imeli veliko sreco, da sva ze ko sva prispeli v Tofo, natancno, stopili iz busa na pesek, spoznali Ivory-a.

On naju je tudi pospremil do zeljenega hostla, kjer je po nakljucju ali z razlogom spal tudi on ha ha Po poklicu kuhar, ki prihaja iz Anglije, ki je zivel v Južni Afriki dobrih trideset let in zdaj pet let v Mozambiku, se že dobrih trideset let ukvarja s potapljanjem. Podvodni svet nama je tako zelo priblizal in pricaral na pravljicen nacin, da sva bile tako zelo navduseni, da bi se sle potapljati se isto sekundo.
Dvorjenje hobotnic je nekaj tako lepega in custvenega, da nevem ce znamo ljudje kaj tagega ha ha Moski spol najprej iz najlepsih skoljkic in svetlecih kamenckov zgradi hisico. Poskrbi za vse detalje in to lahko traja tedne, dokler ni cisto zadovoljen z zgrajenim. Nato pripelje svojo drago, ter ji razkaze njegovo hisico zgrajeno samo zanjo. Skupaj se vsedeta zraven ter se zacne osvajanje. S svojimi lovkami jo nezno objema, se dotika, jo boza in skupaj spreminjata barve. Ivory tocno ve katera barve pomeni kaj. Jaz  pa sem ze malce pozabila, mislim, da rdeca pomeni, da ji je nerodno in ko je zelena pomeni, da je pripravljena, da jo je koncno osvojil. In paritev se zacne in ja ne mislite da tudi tole traja in traja ha ha tega pa je v hipu konec in kaj hitro se samica spremeni v crno barvo ter s crnilom posprica samca, ter izgine ha ha… in potem tako cuteca zival kaj velikokrat se znajde na kroznikih… raje ne mislim!!!
In se na kratko o kitih, teh mogocnih ogromnih zivalih. Kiti glavaci, ki tehtajo 4 tone in merijo v dolzino 12 do 16 metrov. Hranijo se le v polarnih vodah, dalec stran od obal, tam na sirnem odprtem morju. V tropske vode se pridejo le pariti in kotiti. Skakanje iz vode uprizarjajo le v tropskih vodah. In jih je prav cudovito opazovati. Ivory naju je poucil o razlicnem metanju iz vode, od zamahov z repom, s plavutjo, vrtenjem, metanjem nazaj in se bi lahko nastevala, skratka uprizorijo pravi morski ples.

Iz Tofo Bay sva nato odpotovali do glavnega mesta Mozambika, Maputa. Kjer sva zopet skusali najti kaksen kontakt za sirotisnice ali organizacije, toda neuspesno. Mesto je preveliko in ocitno nama ni namenjeno, da naletiva na pravo osebo! Zato se prepustiva toku in se ne obremenjujeva prevec. Zvecer si privosciva malce glasbe in gledalisca na prostem. Sicer je bilo vse v Portugalscini, toda nic ne de, bilo je vseeno zanimivo in zabavno. V hostlu naju preseneti Ivory, ki se obrne na postelji in rece: »Ej dekleti«! Kaj nama sledi ha ha, toda Ivory se je odlocil, da zapusti Mozambik ter odide nazaj v Juzno Afriko, ker mu je umrl Afriski oce. In plani za naprej? Pravi, da po vsej verjetnosti odide nato v Egipt :) Kaksno zviljenje, brez omejitev, kamorkoli in kadarkoli, obrne jadra, seboj vzame par potovalk, z vso potapljasko opremo in gremo… vso sreco Ivory in hvala za vse podvodne zgodbe!

Skupaj smo se nato nabasali na busek in se odpravili Juzni Afriki naproti. Z Ivory-jem sediva cisto spredaj pri vozniku, Eva pa stlacena cisto zadaj malega buska :( Verjamem, da bi rabile se vec casa, da bi raziskale drzavo se bolje, ji dale cas, da nama zleze pod kozo, toda cas je bil za naprej…

morski pozdravi…
Simona

]]> http://lifeisajourney.si/?feed=rss2&p=755 http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=735 http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=735#comments Tue, 25 Aug 2009 10:46:05 +0000 simona http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=735 In ze sva v peti drzavi vzhodne Afrike, v eni izmed najbolj revnih drzav sveta, dezeli toplih in najbolj prijaznih ljudi, uradni jezik je Chichewa in Anglescina, tako da s sporazumevanjem zopet nisva imeli problema. 12 milijonov ljudi naseljuje to drzavo in vec kot pol je starih pod 15 let. V drzavi je veliko plemen kot npr. Chewa, Tumbuka, Nguni, Chipoka, Tonga, Phoka, Jao, Zulu, in vsak zase govori svoj jezik. Skozi vso drzavo se razprostira jezero Malawi, prej znano kot  Nyasa in drzava Malawi kot Nyasaland. Najbolj znan raziskovalec, ki je prisel v to drzavo je bil David Livingstone, leta 1859. Leta 1889 se zacnejo prve naselitve belcev, Britancev. Kolonializem je privedel do suzenjstva in veliko zemlje je bilo vzete lokalnim ljudem. 1950 leta Banda zacne z mocnim pritiskom za osamosvojitev te dezele, ki se z vso borbo zgodi leta 1964. Dve leti kasneje Malawi postane republika in Banda predsednik, ki sam sebe poimenuje za dozivljenjskega predsednika, ki je nato vladal 30 let.

In ze je naju pot vodila skozi Tanzanijo, nacionalne parke, cudovito pokrajino…Celodnevna voznja v velikem avtobusu, tokrat na sprednjih sedezih, nama je bila zelo udobna. Ko smo se peljali skozi nacionalni park smo imeli moznost opazovati divje zivali, med drugim tudi levinjo, ki je preckala naso pot. Toda mi smo bili na avtobusu, kaj pa tri pogumne punce, ki so pogumno vrtele pedale na svojih kolesih, katere smo pred minutko prehiteli? Upamo, da so srecno prekolesarile Mikumi nacionalni park Med potjo sva seveda tudi fotkali in Eva je kljub temu, da se ne sme slikat policajev, slikala tudi njih ha ha in kaj se zgodi…ustavijo nas policaji in zahtevajo, da Eva izstopi iz avtobusa in jim da fotoaparat! Pa ne spet!!! Joj joj! Komaj si ga je kupila, zdaj ga bo pa ze izgubila!! Toda po krajsem barantanju, Eva zbrise vse fotke na katerih so bili policaji in jo nato le pustijo, da se zopet vsede na svoj sedez, ter lahko nadaljujemo zanimivo voznjo ha ha…

Malawi naju je prevzel cim sva prestopili mejo. Sicer na mejnem prehodu med Tanzanijo in Malawijem sva imeli kar nekaj sitnosti. V drzavo naju niso pustili, saj bi morali imeti vizo, za katero bi morali zaprostiti ze v Evropi!! Aha! Toda midve se ne dava, zopet uporabiva najine care in se hecava z uradniki ter se koncno po dve urnem cakanju in ugotavljanju kje je Slovenija, odlocijo, da morava v petih dneh za vizo zaprositi v drzavi. Za vsako drzavo sva posebaj preverili in za Malawi sploh ne bi potrebovali vize, zato nama ni cisto nic jasno! Ok, ni panike gremo dalje s taksijem in nato na busek do Chitimbe. Zopet se je bilo potrebno kar znajti kako dobiti prevoz in preckanje meje zna biti vcasih pravi napor. Po parih urah koncno prispeva v Chitimbo, vasico, ki lezi ob jezeru Malawi. Namestiva se v hostel, katerega lastnica je Karlijn, Nizozemkinja, prijazna gospa, ki je iz bogatega okolja, polnega dobrin, odsla v skromno in svobodno okolje. Zraven njenega hostla, nekaj metrov stran je drzavna sola, katero sva z Evo tudi obiskali. Nisva mogli da ne bi, saj sva vsakodnevno preckali pot, na kateri sva srecali gruce otrok. Solski prostori so zelo prazni, otroci sedijo na mrzlih tleh, ucilnice nimajo oken itd. Primanjkuje jim uciteljev in osnovnih pripomockov za ucenje. Sokirani sva bili, ko sva videli, da otroci s seboj prinesejo stole, da lahko na njih sedijo! V prihodnosti si z Evo zeliva, da bi tej soli, lahko prispevali vsaj nekaj nujnih stvari za delovanje.

Zraven hostla so tudi mladi umetniki, ki so zelo nadarjeni v izrezovanju iz lesa. Kaj takega in tako lepega nisem videla se nikjer. Cudoviti stoli, kipci, vaze, posode itd. Ti tu so res pravi umetniki, pa ceprav pravijo, da za to ni potrebnega talenta. Recejo, da se vsega lahko naucis ce si to zelis. Pa se kako imajo prav

V vasici Chitimba sva spoznali zopet zanimive ljudi. V manjsi lokalni restavraciji, kjer sva jedli najino kosilo, sva se zaklepetali z lastnikom, ki je po srcu in dusi Rasta. Razlozil nama je nacin zivljenja in kaj pomeni biti rasta. Pravi, da je bil Jezus crn in ne bel, kot ga prikazujemo belci. Njihov kralj je Hajle Selasie, nekdanji etiopski kraj, ki je zacel siriti vero. Rasta ljudje so zelo zanimivi, ze njihov izgled, spletene lase v drede in okrog vratu verizica ali zapestnica v barvah raste (zelena, rumena in rdeca). Oni ne jedo mesa, jedo le ribe, ter ne kadijo in ne pijejo alkohola. Toda obcasno naj bi pravi rasta skadil kaksno travo, ganjo ha ha da se mu bolje odpre in pribliza duhovni svet. Ceprav vsi, ki nosijo rasta izgled in pravijo, da so rasta po srcu, ne sledijo vsem pavilom. Vecina jih pije, kadi in seveda pretirano uporablja sveto substanco ganjo!!! Ob pogovoru sva pridno prebirali riz in fizol od smeti in cas je kaj hitro minil in ze je bilo treba naprej…

Po kosilu se odpraviva na krizisce in cakava, da nama ustavi kaksen avto do Livingstonie, mesteca s kolonialnim pridihom in zanimivo britansko arhitekturo. In ker ni nobenega avta, ki bi sel v to smer, se kar odpraviva pes. In da ne bi hodili po cesti, se odlociva da skreneva na bliznjice, cisto tako po obcutku ha ha in ze srecava na prvi bliznjici lokalno zensko, z otrokom na hrbtu. Stopimo skupaj do njenega doma ter nama nato prijazno pokaze bliznjico do Livingstonie. Se kake pol ure hoje do vrha in nama ustavi Will iz Juzne Afrike, ki dela v bliznjem rudniku premoga. Odlocil se je, da bo potoval vse do Japonske in vmes delal, ter ni vazno kaksno delo mu pride pod roke. Res zanimiv fant!

Blizala se je noc, zato sva stopili nazaj, nekaj kilometrov do Mashroom farm, kjer je baje videti najlepsi soncni vzhod in seveda tega noceva zamuditi. Na najini poti nama zacne delati druzbo lokalni bend, punca in dva fanta s kitaro. Vsak korak postaja vse bolj vesel in poskocen. Zato ni cudno, da se bend ustavi ter zacne igrati ter peti in plesati. Z Evo sva zelo preseneceni, kar ne dojameva kaj se dogaja, tale Malawi bo zelo zanimiv ha ha Toda, ze po prvih kiticah petja, nas ustavi gospod, ter prosi, ce se odstranimo iz nogometnega igrisca ha ha tako smo bili veseli in cisto zaslepljeni, da nismo opazili da stojimo ravo na sredini nogometnega igrisca. Odstranimo se na rob igrisca, toda otroci so zelo firbcni, ter se nam raje pridruzijo pri petju in plesanju, ki je odmevalo po bliznjih hribckih in dolincah…cisto noro!

Koncno prispeva v Mashroom farm, kjer spoznava Paul-a, Avstralca, ki vodi ta hostl in dobro vzdusje se nadaljuje. Pomaga nama postaviti sotor na cistem robu skal, odkjer bova lahko zjutraj opazovali soncni vzhod. In res zgodaj zjutraj naju prebudi prvi zarek in tam dalec za jezerom je zacelo vzhajati veliko rdece sonce, katerega zarki so segali vse povsod. Bilo je cudovito z besedo neopisno, zato sva le sedeli in opazovali kako se pokrajina in nebo spreminjata. Po zajtrku se odpraviva se na krajsi sprehod do mogocnega slapu ter nato nazaj v dolino… Ko stopiva na cesto mimo pridrvi stirikolesnik, na njemu oci in dva otroka! Jao jao, hrup in prah, ki ga je puscal za nama, nama ni bil prav nic vsec. Otroci in starejsi so opazovali kot, da je cudo iz drugega planeta. Toda v Chitimbi v hostlu nato spoznava tole prijazno druzinico iz Nizozemske, ki je naju ravno prejle zasula s prahom ha ha Starsa, ki potujeta s petimi otroci, na velikem kamionu, ki  je bil narejen samo za njih, od Belgije do Juzne Afrike. Ko bod koncali zastavljeno pot, se bodo odpravili v Avstralijo in nato se po Aziji. Trije otroci bodo odleteli domov v solo, dva mlajsa pa bosta uzivala na potovanju okrog sveta. Prej sva jih na nek nacin obsojali, zdaj pa sva spoznali, da so druzina, ki se zaveda, da potuje po Afriki in tudi ob priliki radi pomagajo ali pa na stirikolesnik posedejo afriske otroke in jih vozijo okrog… Bili so tako srcni, da so naju povabili, da se jim lahko pridruziva na poti do najinega naslednjega postanka Nkhata Bay-a.

V Nkhata Bay sva se spomnili, da bo tistih pet dni za pridobitev vize konec, zato sva poiskali urad za priseljence in prosili, ce sva lahko v Malawiju brez vize, saj je zelo draga, 70USD! Hecali sva jih, da sva v drzavi ilegalno in da bo tako tudi ostalo ha ha Najin hec in odkritost sta zopet ocarali uradnika, ki je bil tako zelo prijazen, da se je odpravil v Muzuzu in uredil najine vize. Ceprav mu je vse skupaj vzelo pet ur, mu ni bilo problema to storiti in se presenetljivo ni zahteval dodatnega placila, katerega sva bili vajeni v drugih drzavah…zelo lepo od njega!

Zvecer sva se odpravii na tri dnevno voznjo z ladjo ILALA. Ob 11 uri zvecer sva stali v gneci, da se tudi midve poled drugih lokalnih ljudi vkrcava. Na trenutke je bilo grozovito! Stati tam, stisnjen v mnozici ljudi, ki na glavah nosijo velike vrece koruze, se prerivajo, vpijejo in nimajo nikakrsne olike, ni bilo prijetno. Ko se koncno prerineva na ladjo je najin drugi razdred ze zelo zaseden, v njem ni zraka in prostor. Zacelo me je stiskati, zato se z Evo prerineva v prvi razred, na krov, kjer je bilo le nekaj ljudi, vecinoma belci, ki so seveda placali za prvi razred. Pogrneva si po tleh, ter zlezeva v spalke in z nama se najina mala ruzaka z dragocenimi stvarmi, saj je znano da zelo rado kradejo na ladji. Sredi noci naju zbudi gospod, ki preverja karte, receva mu, da sva zelo zaspani, ce mu jo lahko pokazeva jutri, da sva karto dali nekam na dno ruzaka. Tako naju je na sreco pustil spati na krovu luksuza ha ha Zjutraj se zbudiva v cudovito jutro, prvi soncni zarki so vedno nekaj posebnega, barve so zelo tople. Uzivava v lepem razgledu, na svezem zraku, medtem ko je drugi razred se vedno nabit in ljudje en na drugem skupaj s tovorom. Ker sva z Evo vedno zelo odprti in nama ni problem navezati stikov z lokalnimi ljudmi, se tudi tokrat izkaze, da je to zelo dobro pocetje haha Andrew dela na ladnji ze dve leti in je z nama prezivel cel cas potovanja. Skupaj smo se zabavali, smejali in obnasali kot petletni otroci. Vedno nama je bil pripravljen pomagat, karkoli sva potrebovali. Potem je tu Danijel, 26 letni kapetan ladje, ki nama je razkazal ladjo ter sva lahko bile tudi v kabini, kjer ukazuje svojim podrejenim kako usmerjati ladjo. Tu je bila tudi zenska, ki je strojnica, ki nadzoruje motorje ladje. Peljala naju je v spodnje prostore, kjer je zelo glasno, ter sva lahko od blizu videli velike masine, ki poganjajo motorje. Zelo pogumna in odlocna zenska, ki se ne da moski druzbi, ki jo radi hecajo, da ta poklic ni za zenske. Ladja cel cas poti ni zapeljala v pristanisce. Ko se je ustavila na dolocenem mestu, so ljudje, ki so izstopali, morali na manjse ladjice, ki so jih nato peljale do kopnega in obratno. S prva je bilo zelo zanimivo, saj tega nisva pricakovali, zgledalo je kot v kaksnem Piratskem filmu, kako manjse ladnjice napadajo vecjo ha ha iz vsepovsod so veslali in  prihajali do ladje. Ter nato raztovarjali in natovarjali…

Bil je drugi dan, ko zopet zagledam gospoda, ki preverja karte. Hitro stecem v spodnje prostore in Eva mu prijazno razlozi, da imam karto jaz in da neve kje sem. Zopet sreca, toda tretji dan, pa ni slo vec. Tokrat so naju dobili. In sva morali pokazati  karto in seveda punci, bi morali biti v drugem razredu in ne v prvem!!! Jej jej..po krajsem prepricevanju in pregovarjanju, hecanju, je gospod odlocen, da morava dol!!! Oh, ja..in ze pristopi kapetan, ki rece, da je ze vredu, da naju lahko pusti tu gori ha ha ha… veze veze nimas kej Toda vseeno se odlociva, da probava ne drugi razred, ampak ekonomski in se opraviva kar tja dol, kjer tudi pojeva najino kosilo Nsimo, Ugali s fizolom, ter se vrzeva na kup vrec in prijetno zadremava ha ha Naj povem, da ima prvi razred tudi posebno kuhinjo in restavracijo, kjer so cene visje kot pa v drugem razredu. In ker sva narocili kosilo v prvem, naju je prisla iskat natakarica, da je najino kosilo ze pripravljeno ha ha toda midve razloziva, da sva ze jedli v ekonomskem, da ni panike… Vsi so naju zaceli gledati, kaj dogaja tem dvema belkama… midve pa v smeh, sploh nisva uzaljeni, celo uzivava in se imava prav fajn. Ni bilo urco dve, ko naju gospod, ki gleda karte prosi, ce greva v prvi razred ha ha Zakaj ze? Vztrajava, da je ok, da nama nic ne manjka, da je tu prav fajn. Toda vztraja, da bodo cistili ekonomski razred in da morava zato gor ha ha… ja prav, ce tko hoces pa greva…in sva sle…uzivat na krov ladje. Bila je se zadnja noc, ko se z Evo ze tlaciva v spalke in jaz vrzem vrecko na luc, da naju ne bo motila, pristopi gospod, ki pravi, da lahko greva spat v sobo!? Pa to ni res, na tej ladji sva sprobali prav vse od prvega razreda, drugega in ekonomskega, obletali ladjo od kabine, do motorjev, spali na krovu in nazadnje se na udobni postelji itd… mislim, da res nimava vec kaj poceti tu, cas je za izkrcanje hahaha

Namesto, da se izkrcava v Chipoki, se odpraviva kar v Monkey Bay, skupaj s posadko. V vasi naju Andrew pelje do svojega doma, ter predstavi sestre, brata in mamo. Zivijo v skromni hiski grajeni iz blata in gline. Nimajo ne vode in ne elektrike. Jezero, ki lezi le nekaj metrov stran je vir za umivanje in pranje perila. Cez dva dni je Ilala obrnila nazaj proti severu in tako sva z Evo odsle v pristanisce, ter pomahali posadki v slovo.

En dan sva se odpavili v manjse mestece Mongochi, 40 km stran iz Monkey Bay-a. Skocili sva na lokalni prevoz, avto, ki ima zadaj kiblo. Stlaceni drug ob drugem smo sibali po ravni cesti, ki je bila na sreco asfaltna. Ljudje so bili zelo prijazni, med postanki so kupili sadje ali pijaco, katero so z veseljem delili z nama. Cutiti je bilo cudovito energiijo, ki je nama prodirala v srcka. Bila sem jo tako polna, da si nisem mogla vec pomagat, da ne bi zavpila: I love you all! Rada vas imam!…in vsi so se zaceli smejati in vzdusje je bilo fenomenalno. Presenecena sem bila tudi sama nad sabo, da sem razumela njihov jezil…od kje zdaj to? V vecini primerov sem tocno vedela kaj me je kdo vprasal oz. je rekel drugemu, dogajati so se zacele res cudne stvari jao jao…toda, ni me bilo strah, v sebi sem cutila mir in obcutek, da sem doma ha ha in res, obcutek je bil, da sem tu ze bila, vse mi je bilo tako prijetno, prijazno in blizu…biti doma po dolgem casu je zelo lepo J zdaj vem, zakaj me je Afrika tako vabila in klicala, tu sem nekoc zivela zivljenje, ki je pustilo mocan pecat na moji dusi…tako zelo lepo, da bom zopet rekla z besedo, se ne da opisati

Zdaj pa k drugi temi, v Malawiju je zelo znano carovnistvo in je postalo ze nacionalni problem drzave, saj so tega zaceli uciti tudi tri leta stare otroke! Carovnistva se zelo bojijo in ljudje ga uporabljajo, ce zelijo skodovati drugi osebi, ce so na nekoga ljubosumni, da ima vec denarja, se ga bodo s carovnistvom znebili. Uporabljajo ga tudi ce je nekdo bolan, ter nato bolnega odpeljejo carovniku, ki ga nato pozdravi, ter seveda racuna velike denarje.

Skrivnost zbuja tudi gora Mulanje, ki lezi na jugu Malawija. Tja gor se radi odpravijo turisti in velikokrat se zgodi, da tudi izginejo. Pravijo ko hodis po gori, lahko slisis otroke kako se hihitajo in ko se jim priblizas se glas umika stran. Slisis lahko kako gre avtobus in ko se obrnes ga seveda ni. Na poti lahko naletis na hrano, kot npr. Banane, ugali, katere moras pojesti, sicer ti preti nevarnost, da bos izginil. Ravno pred dnevi nama je pravil kapetan ladje Ilala, da je izginil Brazilec, katerega je spoznal pred dnevi na ladji. Zdaj ga iscejo toda brez uspeha. Pred leti so izginili ljudje, nekateri so se po parih mesecih zopet pojavili, toda kje so bili, kaj se je zgodilo, niso vedeli. Zanimivo!

Na severu Malawija zivi pleme Yao, kjer se vedno opravljajo obrezovanje moskih in zensk starih 15 let. Po obrezovanju morajo nato za 3-4 mesece v osamo, ter nato jih caka prva spolna izkusnja s starejsim clanom plemena. Verjamejo, da jim tako pocetje da moc. Za obrezovanje sva slisali v vsaki drzavi. Drzave so tako pocetje prepovedale, toda to je tezko nadzorovati, saj kdo pa bo sledil vsem tem ljudem, ki so skriti tam dalec v gozdovih.

In se ena zanimivost, zastrasujoce pleme Gule Wankulu, ki zivi na jugo zahodu drzave, v okolici glavnega mesta Lilongwe. Pleme, katerega se bojijo vse prebivalci, saj se imajo za Predatorje. Z Evo sva jih zeleli srecati z njimi, toda ocitno nama ni bilo namenjeno. Sva pa zato spoznali avstrijskega popotnika, ki je postal clan Gule-ja! Obvezan je k molcecnosti, zato nama ni dosti razkril, kaksen je obred oz. postopek, da postanes del tega plemena. Rekel je le, ce bo povedal, ga bodo zaklali kot piscanca in ga pojedli. Njihovi obredi so po pripovedovanju kruti, oni se mucijo med seboj, probajo koliko lahko zdrzijo…nadenejo si maske, da so njihovi obrazi zakriti, ter v vasi hodijo krast hrano ali pa celo ljudi, katerim se sigurno dobro ne pise. Ko sva takole koga vprasali kje bi bilo mozno videti Gule, je nama s strahom rekel, ne sprasujta to na glas, ker nikoli ne ves kdo je clan Gule-ja, zato moras biti tudi previden kaj govoris o njih. Oh, joj! Tole bi bilo zanimivo posnet ha ha in raziskat tale skrivnostni Malawi…mogoce ob drugi priloznosti, ce nama bo z Evo dana oz. ce me bo moj dom zopet zacel klicati, ga bo potrebo zopet obiskati ha ha

Malawi nama je prinesel zanimivo zgodbo, v kateri sva zelo uzivali in res je toplo srce Afrike, katerega vam posiljam tudi v Slovenijo

Soncek za vse od Simone

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We entered the 5^th country of Africa, MALAWI, which is known as ‘A warm heart of Africa’. The people make it that way, which you can feel already when you cross the border. They are one of the friendliness people in Africa, being kind without expecting something back. We all know it as one of the poorest countries in the world. My expectations were changed very quickly. This country is maybe not rich regarding money statistics, but otherwise is a real pearl in this part of Africa.

Official languages are English and Chichewa. Population cca. 12 million, almost half of it of age below 15. Most of the people live in rural areas where they survive with farming and fishing. Religion: mostly christianity besides muslim and African practices. 500 km along Malawi eastern border is a huge Lake Malawi, which was in a time of British colonialists (1859; David Livingstone) known as Lake Nyasa and the country was named Nyasaland. In Malawi we find plenty different tribes (Chewa, Tumbuka, Nguni, Chipoka, Tonga, Phoka, Yao, Zulu…), many of them invaded Malawi from different neighbouring parts of Africa. Colonialists brought an end to slave-trading and intertribal conflicts, but at the same time occurred other problems - africans started to pay taxes. Malawi became independent in 1964 with colonial opposition ruled by Kamuzu Banda. He became the first president of Malawi and he called himself ‘President for life’ in 1971. He ruled for long 30 years. The next president, Bakili Muluzi, inspite of being corrupted, succeeded in freedom of speech and print. In 2004 they got a new president Bingu wa Mutharika who started to fight against HIV/AIDS and attracted a lot of foreigner investment.

Our long way from Dar Es Saalam to Mbeya was quite interesting. We crossed Mikumi National Park, where we first saw three white girls riding a bicycle through this National Park, and after 5 minutes we saw a lion crossing that same road. Hope those girls didn’t have any problems on their way! Later on I had a little problem with police because I took few pictures of them through an opened window. This is forbidden, but I thought there is no way that they would see me. Of course they did, hahahaa..and two of them came on the bus asking who was taking photos. I had to go off the bus and they were threatening me they will take my camera and I thought: ‘ooh, noo..not again…I finally bought myself a new camera after it was stolen in Arusha some time ago’. I had to delete all the pictures, they gave me a hard time, and I promised to myself I am finished with taking pictures of police. So we went on…towards Malawian border. We spent there approx. 2 hours as they didn’t know where Slovenia is. We started to make fun and told them that it is not on the map, that we live in a country of love (sLOVEnia) and so on….As far as we knew we didn’t need a visa for this country. But obviously we needed it, so after consulting with a chief officer there, they gave us a paper which allowed us to enter the country, but we needed to get visa in 5 days in a town Mzuzu. We were finally in Malawi, going first to a little town Chitimba, a place beside Lake Malawi. We were sleeping in a place run by Karlijn  from Netherland and we got a hut almost beside a lake. We usually woke up early in the morning to see the Sun rise and we met there many interesting people. There is many things I could write about this place, lets say, people there make beautiful carvings as chairs and tables, we had a whole market in front of our gate. One afternoon we went to the near primary school, we were shocked when pupils brought their chairs from home to write final exams at school. And another thing about that school is that there is one teacher on 60-100 pupils…there are many things that could be done for a better education of those kids. We will try to send skilled people on this place, but more about that when we organize everything and put all the info on our website. In Chitimba we met interesting Rasta guy who runs a small restaurant, he explained to us the philosophy of Rasta religion. And apart from many so called Rastas, he is a true one, he doesn’t drink, doesn’t eat meat and every day smokes a holy plant, ahaha…as he said is also written in the bible, hahaha. He cooked for us a great lunch, later we helped with rice and beans, to remove all the bad seeds, and after a great conversation we had to leave. We wanted to go to the mountains, a place called Livingstonia where you can experience Malawi’s colonial past. As we were standing by the road quite some time to get any random transport to that hill, we decided to go by foot. We didn’t know exactly where to go, ahhaa…but we just started to walk. Soon a woman with a little child on her back joined us and she showed us all the shortcuts to the top of the mountain. We asked her what can we do for her and she said she needs a soap to wash clothes, so we agreed that we buy her few things and we leave them in Chitimba. So whenever she will go back to town, she can pick those things in the place where we were staying. She was really happy and us even more, but we needed to part ways. We had to walk a little bit more to come on top, it took us all together about 3 hours. Fortunatelly by the end came a car and as we thought it will just pass us by, it stopped, juhuuuu!!!. A guy from South Africa, named Will, stopped us, he was all black saying that he is working in a coal mine up there in Livingstonia. He is quite an interesting person, he decided to travel from South Africa to Japan for 5 years and work in between, wherever possible. That’s an experience J We soon came to Livingstonia and by its architecture it really seemed very British. Will told us that we need to go on a Mushroom farm below Livingstonia and rather sleep there, because from there is a fantastic view on Lake Malawi. That’s why we went a little bit back down to find that place. When we came there we already knew that this was a good decision. You can sleep in a tent on a cliff and from there enjoy a magnificent view on that part of Malawi and its lake. I must mention that we met Paul, a guy from Australia, who is running the place. We were laughing from the second we met till the second we left. Quite a crazy guy, with such we get along very well, hahaha…He sent us to see Manchewe falls where we met women with big piles of laundry to wash. They do it without a problem, with carrying a baby on the back. No problem J After we spent just one night on a mushroom farm, we needed to go back down…but its never boring when we travel..soon joined us a band from Malawi, they had a concert in Livingstonia. They were first waiting on a transport to Chitimba, but as it didn’t come, they also went by foot back down. They really wanted to play something for us and they stopped exactly in the middle of a football field where people were in the middle of the match, ahhahaa….They sat down and started to play when a guy came and said that we must remove our asses some place else..thats when we saw where exactly did we sit in the first place, ahhaha….we removed ourselves for few meters and then they had a concert…kids started to come together and started to dance and sing…in the middle of nowhere, such a great atmosphere in the air!..aaiiiiii!!!….On our way back down, we saw a 4-wheel opened car (or rather bike) with fat tires crossing our way with three tourists on it. Me and Simona just stood beside the road, what the hell is going on here, what are these crazy tourists doingh here in such a peaceful environment. Local people there I’m sure never saw that kind of a vehicle. But what a coincidence, ahhaa…when we came back to Chitimba, that family was accommodated in our place. We were amazed by that family actually..why?..There are mother and father and 5 kids, three of them go to school, they are from Belgium and they are traveling through Africa in a huge truck which was made just for them, They have everything inside, beds, kitchen, dining table, toilets, everything really neat and that 4-wheel vehicle they can put at the back. They don’t complicate about anything. Kids that go to school joined them through summer vacations, two little ones travel with parents all the way. After they will finish Africa continent, they will send the vehicle to Australia and travel some more. I had never seen anything like that, and honestly, I would love to have a husband who would think the same way as me, where the whole family can travel without a problem, because I believe everything is possible. Many people at home think that once you have kids you cannot travel anymore…I’m sure it can be done with no complications. And this family was so nice to us that they invited us to travel with them on that huge truck all the way to Nkhata Bay. Here we realized that 5 days are over and that we need to get visa someplace, hahaa…so we went to immigration office where we again made fun..we told those people there that we are illegally in the country and they should do something about it…of course they didn’t believe us and were just laughing to us…and it was the truth…come on, do you work properly and do something..people cannot travel through your country without papers, is it?..obviously they liked us a lot, that’s why one of the officers even went to get visa for us to Mzuzu, which took him almost 5 hours, after his working hours. In the midtime we did a laundry in Lake Malawi like all the locals do. It was quite fun to run after the clothes which the water kept washing them back to the lake, hahahaa… Here we finally realized that Malawi is quite an expensive country, if you go to market to buy food, it costs a lot, because most of things are imported from other countries. Also accommodation can be quite expensive and all the lodges, hostels, backpackers, restaurants are owned by white people.

After getting a visa which costed us 70 usd! we were happy to board on Ilala ferry which took us through half of the country. Well, not that happy at the beginning because we were boarding at 11 p.m., in the dark, and there were hundreds and hundreds of people to get on board with all the cargo. It looked quite dangerous when we were standing in ‘line’ to get on a ferry, because people carrying heavy bags of maize, sugar and many other things on top of their heads were being very pushy and didn’t mind if any of us would be stepped over. We were squeezed in front of the gate for a long time before we came in. We bought tickets for a second class, but when we got on a ferry, second class was already packed with people and cargo. We could hardly get through with our heavy backpacks and the air inside was hot and heavy, no fresh air. We succeeded somehow to pass all these people and went upstairs directly to 1^st class, which we didn’t even know. All whites were sleeping in the upper floor below the stars, some of them payed for a cozy sleep in a cabin. Three days of running around ferry, up and down, from economy class to first class, hahaa…we met Andrew who is working on a ferry, he helped us with everything we needed and soon we became good friends …and all we did when we were together was laughing like crazy monkeys, hahaa… Most of the time we spent on an opened deck where we also slept. They told us that people steal a lot on that ship, so we packed our things on a pile and slept beside it. And it happened that we were sleeping almost below tha bar where people were drinking all night long and were getting wasted. All the best places were already taken. So it happened that in the early morning there were faces of drunk men above us trying to ask us stupid questions, hahaha…we were just laughing again and making pictures of them, the next day they didn’t even know with who were they talking to. It was amazing to wake up in the sleeping bag in the middle of the lake when the Sun was going up..and all the people were still sleeping. Also in the evening, you could easily see the stars…beautiful environment to fall asleep. We also met a captain of a ferry, Daniel, he allowed us to go to his cabin where we also met a girl who is in charge of all the engines of the ferry. She is a real master, she took us down to see the engines and whenever anything goes wrong she knows how to fix the problem. We were amazed, she really knows what she is doing. She is in charge of an engine crew, they all work in a very noisy place where the engines are, without any ear protection. Huuh, quite a hardwork! On our three day journey we stopped twice also on a mozambiquean side. On each stop we waited for an hour or even more, for all the people and cargo to go off. Usually we didn’t stop in the port, but there were boats who came to the ferry to unload cargo and pick up all the people. Every day inspectors came to check if all the people on board had tickets. Of course they were checking also for which class, hahaha. Soo, the first night we were already sleeping when they wanted to see our tickets. We were half asleep saying that we have them somewhere deep in our backpacks, and they were gentle with us and let us sleep. Huuh, we were relieved, we can sleep in the 1^st class, hahaha..ooh, I must mention that 1^st class had separate restaurant with much better food and of course higher prices than lower classes..the next day when they were checking the tickets, Simona run down one floor below and waited there and when inspectors approached me I said, that my friend has tickets and that she just went somewhere,,,we were saved for another night, hahaa…the third day and the last one (as we wanted to go off in the afternoon) they finally caught us, hahahaa…we HAD to show our tickets, hahaha…and they wanted for us to go to 2^nd class. We were trying to explain how in the 2^nd class was no space and no air, that Simone felt claustrophobic in there, that’s why we went to an open deck….. but they had no mercy…we were starting to make fun, telling them we had already ordered a lunch in a 1^st class and that its our last day, that they can leave us for another few hours…then also the captain came and as we became good friends, he said that we can stay up there…..but after an hour of loud discussion in front of all other white people who payed to stay in the 1^st class, we packed our things and wanted to go not to 2^nd class, but economy class, hahaha…inspector was surprised..we can stay up there and we said we will go anyway, we actually don’t belong to high class, hahaha…we went 2 floors down which was almost empty, coz most of the people already went down and we ordered a meal there…instead od rice with vegetables eaten with forks we ate ugali/nsima (something that cements your stomach, made of maize flour, which we ate all the way from Kenya) with beans with our own hands, haaha…together with our friend Andrew…later when inspector came to check on us, we were already lying on bags of different cargo, ahhahaa..and when a waitress from 1^st class came to call us for lunch, we said we already ate down here…they were all staring at us thinking, whats wrong with these whites…after few hours came inspector once again and he said we can go back up and we didn’t want…but then he said that they will be cleaning the ferry, that we really need to go back to the 1^st floor…so we went back up..and during the night when we slept outside in our sleeping bags, another man came who said that we can actually sleep in the cabin in a bed!…hahahahaa….this was too nice from them, hahaha…that’s how we experienced everything possible on that ferry..economy, 2^nd and 1^st class together with a cabin, food from both restaurants, we saw engines of the ferry, a cabin for the crew…we had the best time up there and met many great people. Becouse of Andrew (we wanted to see his family and place where he lives) we didn’t go off in Chipoka, but in Monkey Bay, which is the last stop of this ferry. From there it goes only back to north. We landed in Monkey Bay and together with Andrew we went to his village. We had accommodation very close to his house. He invited us to see his family, they live in a small hut, next to it is a smaller hut which serves as a kitchen and another small hut above the floor, where chicken live…People in this village live in huts, without electricity or water, they wash their clothes in the lake. They cant have gardens although the land is fertile because there is no water system to water the plants. To fetch water every day from the lake is just too far. The next day we went with Andrew back to port to say goodbye to the crew which was so nice to us, we said goodbye to the captain, engine girl, few others and of course Andrew..it was time for them to go back to north. We went back to village and every time we passed it kids from the village started to run towards us and were hanging on our arms..on each arm from two to four kids, hahaha..they were like monkeys hanging off the trees, which would be me and Simona, hahaha…coz we saw a lot of garbage in that village, of course they don’t collect them in containers as we do, we started to collect bags and papers that were lying on the floor when many kids came and started to pick up the garbage and collect them in a huge bag that we brought…first it was fun for them…but in half an hour they kinda stopped doing it..they didn’t know why are they doing this, what is the purpose..when Simona explained them how they are ruining their environment, water and after she showed them candies, the motivation was there again, hahaha…they were running around and picking up the garbage madly…as a reward Simona gave them sweets…huuh, that was good, but we cleaned just a little part of the village…two guys approached us, they were amazed by what we are doing and they also helped us..afterwards they invited us to their home where we shared a nice meal and we gave them such power through our conversation that they decided to clean the village from now on and even more, they put a sign in English and Chichewa language to keep this land clean..we were really positively surprised by their determination to do something good for the community inspite of probable laughter of adults from the village…some of them said:’ This is how madness begins’, hahaaha….aiaiaiaaai, who would understand them. When I was picking the garbage close to one hut, a guy came to me to ask me what am I doing and why…as I explained him and invited him to help me, he started to laugh and told me that he has a better thing to do…and he was doing nothing…that’s how Africans think..or better don’t think.

One day we went to town Mongochi which is 40 km away from Monkey bay on a pick up truck, packed together with cca. 20 people standing or sitting at the back together with cargo We felt so warmly accepted, we (me&Simona) were the only whites on the truck. Without talking to them we felt loved, can you imagine, I didn’t experience that before, not in such extent. We started to talk and they shared fruits with us and juice which you can buy in little plastic bags. They were talking in Chichewa language and Simona somehow understood what they were talking about, I was shocked. She just knew what they were saying…she started to laugh and said that in her former life she was a Malawian, hahahhaa…also people on the truck looked at her as she was a witch or something..how come she understands us?..ahhahaa…and finally came a lovely birthday of Simona, we were suppose to be at that time in Namibia and celebrate her birthday together with our Irish friend Peter whom we met in Uganda, but we travelled just too slowly, hahaha…together with locals I organized to bake an African cake for her, which was made not in the oven, but on a charcoal…in the evening we burned a fire just for her and prepared few sweet potatoes which she really likes, a guy was playing drums and afterwards she could have a massage, hahaha..but she kindly refused, who knows what do these Africans think or even try to do with her, hahahaa…That’s how we celebrated her birthday in her own home of Malawi :)…Once again Happy Birthday Cinnemon! Tataaaaaa!!! hahahaha

Maybe I can tell you few mysterious and interesting things that happen in this country. Tribe Yao which lives in the southern part of Malawi, still does circumcision of men and women at the age of 15. After that they stay away from the tribe for 3-4 months and afterwards they have their 1^st experience of sex. But not with just anyone, but with older members of the tribe, young women with older men and young men with older women…they believe it brings them strength. Government is discouraging that kind of behaviour, but tribes have higher beliefs, they don’t mind authority that much.

National problem of Malawi is witchcraft, they teach 3 year olds about withcraft. Many people make a business out of it and they are full of tricks. If you are ill or want to get rid of demons that bring you bad luck, you go to see a witch doctor. Of course you must pay for the service. You can also use his powers in a bad way, if you want to harm people. Lets say, like in my country, also in Malawi is a lot of jealousy. If someone in the village has a lot of money, you can find many people who want for him to happen something bad, They believe they can bring him bad luck with witchcraft. We heard many stories about witchcraft, let me mention just few …really strange things happen around here…especially on the Mount Mulanje, where also people disappear…many people believe that on this mountain live old spirits and because of that you can hear when walking on a small path a bus coming, but never really coming…or in the middle of the night you can hear little children talking and laughing and when you try to approach them, they are still far..you just never can reach them…people-tourists who go on a trekking to Mt. Mulanje are often told that they need to respect the spirits..that they will find food like bananas and nsima on the floor in the middle of the forest and that they need to take a piece of food, eat it and proceed walking..if not, sth bad can happen…so you should be careful up there….but it is a true story which was told by captain of Ilala ferry, that a brazilian guy was missing…captain got to know him on a ferry..and after he went on Mt. Mulanje he was gone, missing….local people were again talking about old spirits, but it is true that people may disappear there because of a bad conditions on the mountain…like anyplace else in the mountains, you can get lost because of the cloudy weather and the mist or even fall down…iihhh..hope they already found that guy….

Our final stop in Malawi was Blantyre where we met a german guy who is a member of Gule Wamkulu. As he didn’t have a place to sleep, we invited him to sleep in our room and we talked about many interesting things. We heard so much about that ‘traditional dance’ for the tourists, but underneath is a sect. Noone in the society knows who is a part of Gule, because their first rule is not to talk about Gule outside the Gule. You can get killed because of that. You can become a part of Gule only through someone who is already a member and you are suppose to come on initiation. They hurt themselves to become stronger, fearless, they are hurting themselves physically and psychically. This happens also to new-members. They torture them in every possible way and by the end they show on a chicken how you can die if you talk about Gule. The things I am writing now I got from many different sources. But when me and Simona wanted to see Gule, a local guy said to us if we are completely crazy, that they can also kill us there…if not that, at least rape us!..huuh, this is not that innocent as it looked from the beginning…first they take off all your clothes, then  they torture you..all the group of cca. 50 people..the wear masks and the believe they are spirits, not human beings…and when they wear masks they are like a Predator, fearless and can do whatever they want, they are above the law…so if it happens that during their ceremony or initiation they kill someone, police can’t do anything, as they all believe they are spirits!..this is how they also steal food, noone should be on the way of a Predator…what we know is that they have a softer iniciation for whites, so that they don’t suffer that much, hahaha….maybe me and Simona can go back and make a documentary about that..if there would be a way for them to let us…hmm, maybe, you never know…

Let it be enough, I am greeting all of you, I hope you enjoyed in the stories of Malawi as much as we did.

With love,

Eva

]]> http://lifeisajourney.si/?feed=rss2&p=735 http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=724 http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=724#comments Wed, 05 Aug 2009 12:46:30 +0000 eva http://lifeisajourney.si/?p=724 Our journey has taken us after an amazing month in Moshi, back to Rwanda and not south as we planned. As we are traveling in a way, go with a flow, and we try not to limit ourselves with planning, places we want to see and dates, we head it back to Rwanda where we already were a month ago. It was somehow emotional to leave our ‘home’ in Moshi and our friends, but it was definitely a time to leave, there’s still a long way in front of us….this time we went back to Kigali with a car, with our friend Steve who is a taxi driver. We went on a long journey of approximately 800 km through parts where was no proper road, only sandy and dusty parts, driving through vast country of Tanzania…we went slowly, slowly…it became already dark and police officers stopped us and told us that we should not drive during the night, because it’s dangerous, and that we should rather sleep at that place. So we did…another day we were again driving all day long, we stopped just to have lunch and again the night was here, we needed to sleep over again…neverending journey…on our way we stopped to fix a tire..not once, but three times, hahaha…on the 3rd day we saw a dead body on the street due to car accident and another dead woman lying in the water of Rusumo falls…we were standing on the bridge above Rusumo river and looking down where the body of a woman was stucked between huge rocks, already bloated with water…it was all just too creepy for us and we started to ask ourselves if it was a right decision to go back to Rwanda…but then finally we arrived back to capital of Rwanda, Kigali…Why did we decide to go back and not forth as planned?..well, it is a very long story and very interesting, it felt like we are all in a movie…this story should be written separately, in a book…We were suppose to meet our chinese friend there, but he got arrested on that specific afternoon. As he didn’t have any friends there, just two slovenian girls who understood him somehow, we decided to stay there longer than 2 days to help him. That’s how we visited him few times a day, brought him food, clothes, were in touch with his family, got him a lawyer that he refused coz he wanted to defend himself…To help him we went first to british embassy and later to chinese one…and eventually to president’s office, ahhaha…we were really close to meet Paul Kagame, a president of Rwanda…after a week came his brother and sister from Hong Kong and got him out…This amazing story was at times crazily funny, at times sad, so sad…at times adventurous, at times too much to handle…as I said, a book should be written about that man…why was he arrested? He was walking through the streets of Kigali barefoot and without a shirt..as Kigali is a developed city and people ‘wear’ themselves nicely, they all pretend to be something that they are not, walking around like this isn’t appropriate….and beside that he was drumming loudly in the church garden, provoking a bishop and saying that religion is brainwashing people’s minds, that they are all liars…saying that in the middle of Africa, Rwanda, where most of the nation is Christian, is very provoking…we were not surprised that he was locked in….this man is very different from most of the people, he has very strong beliefs and he defends them on every step..his personality is very strong and he is not afraid of anything, he doesn’t care about rules, laws, frames of society…he knew that he was innocent and shouldn’t be locked in, that’s why he was not afraid to talk to policemen and the chief officers in a very powerful and provoking way…In  prison he got his time every day for martial arts outside in front of the prison, there was an audience of people watching him (policemen and people who passed the prison and stopped to see this man), thinking that this man might be very dangerous as he knows kung fu…in general African people are afraid of Chinese men…and our friend went that far that after we brought him a radio he threw a party in prison, hahaha….this man give every person that he meets a lot to think about, he brings out all of your weaknesses and you are forced to face your own self…and this might hurt a lot, not many people is prepared to face themselves, all the things that may be hidden in you, that you don’t even recognize, come out on the surface….very interesting man, but more about this story another time, in detail..

After that intense part of our trip we went back to Tanzania…all the way from Rwanda through all the country to far off Dar Es Salaam. We spent another two days driving on a bus. On the first part of the way, to Kahama, we were escorted with a policeman in civil armed with a gun…this is normal when driving through Tanzania, its just for security as these parts are dangerous..Finally we arrived to Dar Es Salaam, a major city of Tanzania and its capital. This Haven of Peace was developed by a sultan Sayyid Majid in 19th century, with its huge port and trading centre, which was later a seat of german colonial government. When you walk through the city you can feel its amazing atmosphere, there are many historic buildings, a mixture of Arabic, African and Indian influences. People here are from all over the world, you can see faces which are mixture of Indian, Arabic, Chinese, African roots…lots of people wearing muslim clothes, women covered, men wearing long white dresses and hats, then african women wearing colourful kangas, Indians in their colourful blinky long dresses…oriental scent on every corner…definitely a place to visit!

In such a big city with many shops I finally found a camera worth to buy,…so after quite some time, I was happy owner of a new camera..it was time to start taking picures again, juhuu! So many places I’ve missed that will be remembered only in my head….After few days spent in a chaotic, colourful city full of motion, we decided to relax a bit on beautiful island Zanzibar. We took a ferry and after funny conversations with people on board we landed on this attractive island. First step we did was in a historic Stone Town, a city with labyrinth of narrow streets, beautiful beaches (turquoise sea and white powdery sand, aiaiaaaaii!), fascinating architecture and a diversity of people…between 12th and 15th century Zanzibar was a big place for exporting slaves, gold and wood and also importing spices. After that it was owned by Portuguese and later by Omani Arabs, Sultan of Oman, whose buildings are still present in Stone Town nowadays. In 19th century Zanzibar became independent, but still Omani sultans ruled under a British protectorate.

Stone Town somehow bewitched us with its charm and warm atmosphere…we just took our cameras and went to explore the labyrinth of streets…sometimes we just sat in little squares among old buildings and observed people, the diversity of colours, religions and languages….interesting faces passing by, people pushing a wheel of fruits, kids driving their bicycles..and also people driving through these very thin streets on motorbikes…when you walk through town you pass many colourful shops, selling textile from asia, local spices, seafood as dry fish and octopus, groundnuts..street cats which are walking around to find some food…dogs playing with each other….people who sleep on the stairs of old buildings, men waiting in front of mosques for their daily prayer…you can also buy arts and crafts there, eat fresh fruits from stands beside the street (lots of lichi, oranges and watermelon)…there is also a mini square surrounded by very old buildings where people meet every day to share a cup of coffee and play chess…each part of town is so alive, all the five senses can just absorb everything that comes by…beautiful colours everywhere, different smells along the walk through town, you can taste seafood from barbacue every evening from stands of different kinds of food beside the sea, you can hear the music, different ones from each corner..when you pass churches you can hear beautiful singing of the choir, at the same time you can hear a singer from the mosque who is calling people to pray…everything so mixed and so rich in diversity…this place is definitely heaven for a photographer’s eye…we just couldn’t stop taking pictures….so many colours, so many beautiful details…

Here is a lot of muslim people, women are mostly covered..you can see only their eyes..many of them look quite attractive..as they developed how to tell everything with their eyes…hands of many married women are beautifully painted with red henna. This one is extracted from certain plants, but they also use a black one, which is attained chemically and it is called peacock. Of course me and Simona had to paint some parts of our body with it…and we were surprised by reaction of men in Zanzibar…they were interacting with us, asking if we are getting married, that we look gorgeous, hahaa…they were more interested in us as usual, they just love when woman is painted like that…of course we didn’t know that before, so we were quite surprised by their lovely respond, but soon all the nice words has ended..not that we are not absolutely gorgeous, hahaa..but henna was washed down in 2 weeks…

We really wanted to explore the whole island of Zanzibar, that’s why we rented a car and went on a two day trip around the island…huaaaa, this was a great feeling, to be free, transport independent, with a great music in our car and heading for new adventures…At first we needed to think a little bit as here people are driving on the left side and the roads on the island are quite crowded with people..along the island we could see people sitting beside the road, or better on the road, selling fruits…children running up and down, crossing the street, many people walking beside the road, many driving bicycles…but we got used to it..first we went on a spice farm, that was a harmony for our senses…coffee, tea leaves, limes, cinnemon, pepper, chilli, eucalyptus, ylang ylang, vanilla and many many more…after this spice experience we went all the way to the north, to Nungwe..we wanted to spend few hours on the beach, just lying and doing nothing..but we didn’t succeed, becouse there was again many things to explore..we just cant be on one placefor a longer time, hahaha…it became already dark when we were still driving around, it felt safe, that’s why we went from north all the way to southern part….as we didn’t know where to sleep, we just drove in a fenced lodge, owned by a japan woman…there were two masai on the gate who work as a security and we nicely asked them if we can just park inside the gate and sleep in the car..and they started to laugh..they were amazed how come that two white women want to sleep in the car??…first they said that they need to ask the owner, but later came a receptionist called Yuma, a very kind guy and he said we will not tell the owner anything, we will just keep quiet…we were happy to stay there in a safe place…and Yuma was so kind to us he brought us a dinner, served in a car…what more could you possibly imagine?…haa??….we were blessed with great people around us..they were taking good care of us….we slept just few hours when one of the maasai woke us up early in the morning and asked us if we want to see the sunrise….of course!, we jumped up, brushed our teeth beside the car and runned to the shore…the Sun was starting to come out of the sea :)…what a heavenly beginning of the day…maasai and Yuma left and we stayed there alone…in the middle of Africa, on an amazing island, at 5 in the morning..staring at the sun to wake everybody up…I cherish moments like this, they are so precious…we took many pictures there..jumping in the air, hugging the Sun, smiling to the Sun…and finally we put on our bathing suits and went swimming….uaaaaaa, what a morning!..all the people still sleeping, such a silence..only me, Simona and the Sun…I love this planet, I love this life!

It was time to move again to another part of island and go slowly back to Stone Town…police stopped us few times….it is forbidden to take pictures of police officers in east Africa (for other parts we don’t know), but when they stopped us, simona started to make them busy with a funny conversation and I was secretly filming this lovely conversations, hahaha…I was pretending to play with camera and as he was busy to ask simona stupid questions, there was no problems….again the same story as many times before…where are our husbands, are we single, would we marry them and be their second wife and silly stuff like that …the purpose of filming was to record their  behaviour, its really a huge difference if you compare it to policemen at home where they ask you to show your driving licence and that’s about it..

We came back in Stone Town and as we are very curious and we mingle a lot with local people, we found an orphanage which is in a big old historic house above the main street in town…it looks attractive because of its architecture value but when we went inside there were around 50 kids without parents running around in old clothes, barefoot, caughing…the orphanage is governmental and it is located in the middle of touristic center where hundreds and hundreds of tourists walk by every day, they spend enormous amounts of money on expensive dinners, tourist shops with souvenirs and noone knows that there are kids living their every day life in that dark building…tourism brings a lot of money on a daily basis in a governmental pocket, but they just don’t help enough to  these children to live a better life..they have the basics of course, but I am sure they could be treated much better…when we stepped in and started to look for a manager, women there were somehow afraid of us and didn’t want to talk much about their orphanage, later in the office of a manager he explained that government gives money for food, clothes and school fees…true, only for the basics…but the conditions they live in could be much better…the reality of Zanzibar is not just neverending beaches with turquoise water and sandy beaches like in the prospects, but in the same spot also people who have actually nothing…We brought some food for kids and we took few photos secretly as they said its forbidden (don’t know why??…) and when we were with few kids on the balcony and me and Simona were each holding one kid, tourist downstairs were looking up to us and waving…and we were thinking : ‘ooh, if only you would know’…

In Stone Town we met few very interesting people, some of them were participating on a movie festival which was happening at that time..from musicians to movie directors….We met also Pilo, a 55 year old local guy who is helping tourist with their trips along the island..he is very simple, very kind, sincere and really funny..we spent together few afternoons and he was telling us funny stories, he was always a great company…on our surprise many people here knew where is Slovenia, even more Yugoslavia…because many men were working on ships at that time, so they know about Dubrovnik, Split, Rijeka…

I enjoyed a lot an afternoon spent in a music academy in town…the bulding has 2 floors, most of the classes are on top of the building, some in the open space, some in small colourful rooms..you can learn African dance there, play drums, violin…from each room you could hear the sound of different instrument,..aaaahhh, lovely sounds in a very lovely place…they were all inviting us to go in and to listen to their music..we stopped in a room where older man was waiting for his students to join him in a drumming lesson…we stayed in for about half an hour and listened to those guys..they have such a sense of rhythm…I got goosse bumps, the beating of few drums in a room just woke me up! Amazing!

Our time on Zanzibar was coming to an end..in the evening we took a ferry back to Dar Es Salaam and although the trip takes 3 hours we were not suppose to leave the ferry before 6 a.m., so we all slept on the ferry till morning…back in Dar we were walking through the streets, having fun talking with people, making them laugh, we joked around with taxi drivers, street sellers and many others…one day we were walking along the street where we lived and beside the road was a closet with a round mirror on top…just standing there…maybe waiting for a bus, hahaha…we started to joke around and take pictures of ourselves in that mirror beside the crowded road…and soon one lady started to shout at us and many people gathered around us….we didn’t know what we did wrong…finally the owner of that closet came with his serious face and said that we must pay him money for taking pictures of his closet…this was so funny we burst into loud laughter,,,hahaha….sooo African…then we started to joke with him..we told him to put a price on for taking pictures of his closet, that he can make a real business out of it..and that if we knew before that we need to pay for taking picture of his closet, we would pay, but now …and guy was looking at us, thinking, huu, this guyzz may be right,..and he nodded with his head and said that he should really put a price on the closet, that there are many people who would love to take picture of his lovely closet, ahahhaaa…..we just couldn’t believe how these African believe us everything we say….we took one picture of us together in the mirror, people were laughing and we went away with huge smile on our face, hahahaa….

Part of our trip spent in Tanzania was coming to an end, so from Dar Es Salaam we took a bus all the way to Malawi, one of the poorest countries in the world.

Till next time, stay close and we invite you to leave your lovely comment on our blog

Have fun,

eva

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…namesto naprej, greva nazaj, po poti od kjer sva prisle…nazaj v Ruando, Kigali ha ha ha brez heca, toda pot oz. obcutki naju vodijo in kako ne, da ne bi jim sledili!? Slovo od Moshija je bilo nekako custveno, pritekle so solze, kot da bi se poslavljali od doma…voznja do Kigalija je bila zelo drugacna kot tiste, ki sva jih bili vajeni do zdaj. Tokrat ne z busom ampak z avtom. Prijatelj taksist se je nama ponudil, da naju zapelje vse do Kigalija, ter da mu placava stroske hrane in bencina… in smo sli na pot…trikrat menjali gumo, se vozili po prasni in luknjasti cesti, sredi ceste videli mrtvo povozeno truplo cloveka, nato se enkrat na meji med Tanzanijo in Ruando truplo zenske, v Rusumo slapovih…kar prevec za en dan!!! In zakaj nazaj in ne naprej? Dolga zgodba in zraven se zelo zanimiva, za napisati knjigo. Prijatelj iz Kitajske je v tem casu zabredel v tezave ter pristal na policiji, kjer so ga zaprli. In tako sva mu midve priskocili na pomoc, ter vsak dan viseli na policiji, mu nosili hrano, obleko itd. Pomoc iskali na angleski ambasadi, nato na kitajski in nazadnje se v predsednikovi pisarni ha ha, skoraj nama je ratalo srecati predsednika Ruande, Paul Kghame-ja. Po tednu dni je koncno priletela iz Hong Konga njegova sestra in ga spravila ven. Storije, ki so se godile so bile kot iz kaksne komedije. Fant je zelo drugacen od vecine, sledi svojemu pogledu na svet ter zelo rad provucira ljudi, nikogar se ne boji in mu ni mar za okvire druzbe, pravila, zakone itd… da je hodil bos in brez zgornje majice po ulicah Kigalija, bobnal na ves glas na boben sredi cerkvenega vrta, govoril s skofom in ga provuciral, da je vera nic, brez pomena itd… in to sredi Afrike, Ruande, ni cudno da je pristal v zaporu! Toda, ker ni imel nikogar, nobenega prijatelja, znanca, ki bi mu priskocil na pomoc, imel pa je le dve Slovenki, ki sta ga na nek  nacin razumeli, nisva mogli, da ne bi ostali in pomagali. Bilo je veliko smeha in tudi tezkih trenutkov, zgodba je tako polna in doziveta, da res morava nekega dne napisati knjigo…

In nato koncno naprej… nazaj v Tanzanijo, naprej proti najinemu cilju, Dar Es Salamu, glavnemu mestu Tanzanije. Voznja je bila zopet kar naporna, cele dva dneva preziveta na busu. Od Ruandske meje do prvega vecjega mesta Kahame so nas spremljali policisti v civilu oborozeni s puskami. Zdaj sva tega ze navajeni, tako da ni bilo panike in strahu kaj se dogaja. Gre le za varnost oseb, ki se vozijo cez ta predel. Dar Es Salam naju je ze v prvi sekundi prevzel z drugacno atmosfero. Pridih orienta je bilo cutiti po ulicah mesta. Na vsakem koraku so se dvigali minoreti od mosej, ter zenske so nosile rute, nekatere le cez glavo, druge tudi cez obraz. Z Evo sva si vzeli cas in precesali vse trgovine s fotoaparati, da si Eva koncno kupi novi fotoaparat in koncno zacne fotkat! Toliko trenutkov ni bilo ujetih z njenim ocesom in bi bilo zelo skoda, da zamudi se ostale. Tako sva koncno nasli solidno, ki bo nekako nadomestila prejsno. Ulice mesta so zelo zive, polne ljudi in tudi avtomobilov. Popoldne ali ob vikendih ratajo pravi prometni zamaski, avtomobilske hupe odmevajo po mestu in ljudje preckajo cesto vse povprek… pravi kaos…da si odahneva od vsega tega hrupa, ter od napornih dni prezivetih v Ruandi, se odlociva, da si privosciva nekaj dni na Zanzibarju… zopet se skusava v barantanju za najcenejso karto za trajekt, uporabiva zopet vse care in na koncu placava tako kot ostali, toda na karto nama napisejo VIP, ki naj bi nama omogocal dostop do vseh prostorov in tudi posebnega za vip goste ha ha z Evo se zacneva krohotat, zdaj poznava Afriske trike in tudi tale je ena velika nategavscina. Kako naj ima nacenejsa ladja, s katero potuje vecina potnikov in lokalnih ljudi, se VIP prostore in nevem se kaksen luksuz…ce pa je ravno pred pol ure omenil, da se lahko gibava po celi ladji brez omejitev in nikjer ni omenil vip… voznja z ladjo je trajala cca tri ure, na njej je bilo nabito polno potnikov, vecina lokalnih ljudi, ki so sli nazaj domov oz. delat biznis na otok. In ze ko smo se blizali obali je k nama pristopil fant, ki je ponujal poceni prenocisce. To sva  pricakovali, da bo tu veliko ljudi, ki naju bodo hoteli peljati do hotelov, prevoza itd.. Prijazni masaj, ki je sedel zraven Eve, je nama namignil, da fant ni vreden zaupanja in tako sva se ga prijazno znebili. Masaj pa naju je  pospremil z ladje do varnega taksija. Bil je zopet kot angelcek varuh, ki je poskrbel za naju, da sva varno in brez raziskovanja in obotavljanja nasli pot do hostla.

Stone town glavno mesto Zanzibarja je drugacno od drugih mest, ki sva jih videli v Tanzaniji. Tu so stavbe, se iz casa sultana in so prav mamljive za fotografsko oko. In z Evo sva si dali duska in fotkali detajle, ki so se kazali na vsakem vogalu. Vsedli sva se na stopnice med labirintske ulice Stone towna in opazovali mimoidoce ter ves vrvez. Trgovinice dajejo se poseben car tem ozkim ulicam, med katerimi se lahko prav hitro izgubis. Razlicni spominki iz lesa, sali, pisane kange, obleke, nakit je tako vabljiv, da si ne mores, da se ne bi ustavil in ogledal vso to barvitost. Zenske so vecinoma pokrite, nekaterim se vidijo le oci, drugi deli telesa so pokriti s svilnato tancico. Po tradiciji si zenske, ki se mozijo oz. tudi porocene zenske, poslikavajo telo s Henno. Rdeco barvo, ki jo dobijo iz posebne rastline. Crni barvi recejo peak cock, ki pa je umetnega izvora in jo tudi uporabljajo pri slikanju. Tudi midve z Evo sva si dali poslikati telo in nato po ulicah bile veckrat ogovorjene s strani moskih z razlicnimi opazkami, kot npr. Ce sva porocene ali ce se zeliva porociti itd… za moski spol so te poslikave zelo vabljive in tega nisva vedeli prej. Ze s pogledi in namigi sva takoj zakapirali kam ciljao ha ha ocitno jih te poslikave zelo privlacijo na nasprotnem spolu in jim mesajo glavo ha ha ha

Zanzibar sva si ogledali z avtomobilom ter ga precesali od severa do juga. Najin namen ni bil polezavati na plazi in se sonciti, hoteli sva spoznati lokalne ljudi ter z njimi navezati stik ter deliti zanimive zgodbe. In ne boste verjeli v celem tednu nama ni uspelo dobro okusiti morsko vodo!!! Vecina pride na Zanzibar, da se naplava, sonci, midve pa da…??? Ha ha… cas je dragocen in ga ne zeliva zapravljati na plazi, tako da sva na poti srecali zanimive ljudi s katerimi smo delili dobre ideje. Ustavili so naju tudi policisti s katerimi sva se prav zabavali. Prvic jih je prepovedano slikati ali snemati, toda z Evo sva si drznili in jih na skrivaj posneli, ter slikali v stranskem ogledalu. Snemanje je bilo z namenom, saj sva hoteli zabeleziti njihovo obnasanje. Policaji niso taki kot pri nas, da te naprej vprasajo za voznisko dovoljenje, tu te vprasajo od kod si, kako ti je ime in naslednje ze ali si porocena ali samska ha ha…

Obiskali sva tudi kraj, kjer pridelujejo Zanzibarske zacimbe ter jih v zivo vonjali in okusali. Ti okusi in vonji so cisto drugacni kot pa tisti, ki jih lahko kupis v trgovini. Ze prej mi je bil cimet zelo vsec, toda sedaj sem se vanj zaljubila. Od zdaj naprej me Eva klice Cinnemon - Cimet. Ha ha Pocasi naju je ujela noc in voziva po cisti temi…po temnih cestah srecujeva mimoidoce, ki naju zelijo ustaviti. Veckrat pozabiva da sva v Afriki in na vse tiste slabe stereotipe o tej dezeli in se prav prijetno pocutiva kot doma. Tako, da nisva delali panike in sva pogumno vozile naprej do najinega juznega cilja. Pozvnonili na vrata hotela in vprasali nocnega cuvaja, masaja, ce lahko spiva v avtu znotraj ograje. Ha ha ha so se smejali, dve beliki in da bosta spali v avtu, jim ni bilo prav nic jasno. Poklicejo se receptorja, katerega po krajsem pogovoru le prepricava, da res lahko prenociva noc v avtomobilu. Nato dobiva se vecerjo, postrezeno v avtomobilu… ja noro, kaj  naj recem..vse je tako enostavno…da se z Evo le smejiva… Zgodaj zjutraj, se pred soncnim vzhodom, naju masaj zbudi in pospremi na plazo, da bova lahko opazovali cudovito vzhajanje sonca…. bilo je res cudovito in tu sva si vzeli minutko, da okusiva slanost morja, ter zaplavali proti soncnemu vzhodu, novemu dnevu naproti..

Ker sva vedno zelo radovedni in radi raziskujeva, sva tudi tu prisli do zanimive zgodbe, ki se odvija le par metrov nad tlemi, nad razkosnimi restavracijami, kjer turisti uzivajo v razlicnih okusih, se zabavajo, ter zatiskajo oci pred resnico. Od zunaj lepa bela stavba mamljiva za fotografsko oko in v njej sirotisnica, gruce malih otrok, brez starsev, ki dnevno prezivljajo cas znotraj temne stavbe. Razmere tu so sicer boljse kot v kaksni drugi sirotisnici, ki sva jih obiskali do sedaj, toda vseeno, ti otroci si tega ne zasluzijo. Se posebno ne na Zanzibarju, kjer je letno veliko turistov, ki na otoku pustijo ogromno denarja. Ti otroci si zasluzijo dobro in ljubece zivljenje. Obiskali sva jih ter jim prinesli cel kup vreck polnih pomaranc in banan. V sirotisnici nisva smelii slikati, zato sva nekatere fotke posneli na skrivaj. Sirotisnica je v lasti drzave in karkoli bi zeleli tu prispevati oz. delati bi morali preko zakonov, zopet papirnata vojna! Zaposleni so delovali nekako zadrzano in s strahom pristopili do naju. Ce si zamislim koliko turistov letno obisce ta cudoviti otok in koliko bi lahko drzava s tem prispevala za boljse zivljenje teh otrok, me grabi jeza ker lastna drzava ne poskrbi za lastne ljudi tako kot bi morala! Kdaj bo svet zacel delovati za vse in ne le zase!?

Zanzibar nama je prirasel k srcu ne samo zaradi lepih pescenih plaz, ki jih sploh se dobro nisva spoznali, ampak zaradi prijaznih ljudi. PILO je moz star okrog 55 let, ki po otoku lovi turiste, ter vabi na razlicne izlete, ter s tem zasluzi provizijo od vsakega pridobljenega turista. Tudi nama je sledil in midve se ga nisva kar tako otresli, mozak nama je bil zelo zanimiv, ter sva zato z njim preziveli popoldneve, ob pogovorih o njegovem zivljenju in razlicnih dogodivscinah. Skupaj smo sli na kosilo, katerega je bil zelo vesel, kupili sva mu ribe za njegovo druzino ter zvecer pohajali po stojnicah ter probavali razlcne okuse Zanzibarja. Bil je zelo prijazen ter nama je razkazal Stone Town, bil je srcni vodic. Ce se boste kdaj odpravili na ta otok, samo povprasajte po Pilu, vsi ga poznajo in z veseljem vam bo pomagal s kaksno informacijo.

Na Zanzibar sva prispeli v casu filmskega festivala, kot naroceno ha ha in tako imeli sreco in spozanli nekaj avtorjev, ki so sodelovali na tem festivalu. Johanna iz Amerike pa je bila tu, da naslednje leto sodeluje s svojim filmom. Z zanimanjem je poslusala najino zgodbo, kako sva se spoznali, zakaj sva odsli v Afriko, in kaj si zeliva v prihodnosti… tudi ona je bila zanimiva za najina usesa in skupaj smo delili zgodbo. Verjetno sva ji bili tako zelo zanimivi, da je nama celo ponudila vlogo v njenem filmu, ki bo sneman na Zanzibarju ali Ameriki in predvajan na tem festivalu. Ja cisto noro, ce se to zgodi, bova z Evo posali se filmski zvezdi ha ha ha

In presenetljivo, da tu vecina ve kje je Slovenija, se posebno Jugoslavija. Poznajo zgodovino in poznajo mesta ter Jadransko morje, saj so tam v svoji mladosti preziveli veliko casa. V tistem casu je veliko Africanov odslo delat na ladje in veliko od njih je prepotovalo svet. Nekateri so ta cas dobro izkoristili in prisparali za starost, ter sedaj uzivaj svoj pokoj in tudi omogocili svojim otrokom boljse zivljenje in dobro izobrazbo. Nekateri pa tega niso dobro unovcili in sedaj delajo na ulicah, prodajajo razlicne spominke, obleke, sadje, zacimbe ter zivjo z dneva v dan itd… Z njimi sva se hecali in jim pravili, da so verjetno imeli v vsakem pristaniscu kaksno ljubico ha ha znali so odgovoriti na to vprasanje zelo politicno, da za to ni bilo casa, saj so morali vecino casa delati, za zabavo ga je bilo bolj malo. Vendar sva vseeno spoznali enega mornarja, ki je priznal, da ima otroka s Hrvatico in da zivi v Rjeki. Svojega sina je videl ko je bil star 3 leta, zdaj pa je ze odrasel Zelel bi ga videti se enkrat, toda nima poguma, da bi ga poiskal, pisal itd.. Zelel mi je dati naslov in da ga obiscem ob priliki, toda verjetno ze ni bilo dano, da se to zgodi, saj ga naslednji dan nisva imeli casa se enkrat obiskati, bil je cas za odhod na ladjo.

In nazaj v Dar Es Salam, kjer sva  preziveli smejalni dan. Po sprehajanju po ulici se z Evo zapiciva v omaro z ogledalom. Obema je bila vsec in tako sva jo zaceli fotografirat. Nakar pristopi gospa ter zacne nekaj kricati, nato se zacne nabirati gruca ljudji. Dobiva obcutek kot da sva dva kriminalca!! Kaj sva storili narobe? Pristopi gospod in pravi, da je lastnik te omare in da morava placati za fotofrafijo. Aha placati, ker sva slikali tole ogledalo!! Z Evo se krohotava in gospoda cisto zmedeva. Seveda imas prav, mu receva, s tem bi lahko zelo sluzil, veliko turistov bi ti placalo za tole, da bi lahko fotkali ogledalo, samo moras dat ceno gor. Zelo resno naju gleda in poslusa in prikima, da imava prav ha ha Toda zdaj ne bova placali, saj nisva vedeli, ni bilo napisane cene… in res ga prepricava, ter se se celo skupaj slikamo v ogledalu ha ha ha… veliko smeha, da kar vcasih ne moreva verjet v kaj vse lahko prepricava naivne Africane!!

In ze je cas za pot naprej. Kupili sva si vozovnico do Mbeye, juga Tanzanije, ter se drugo jutro odpravili na dolgo 12 urno voznjo skozi cudovito Tanzanijo. Pot je bila zopet dolga in vcasih naporna, zaradi tiscanja na wc. Tu ni tako kot pri nas, da bus ustavi na kaksni postaji, kjer imajo wc-je, tu ustavi sredi polja in vsi ljudje poskacejo z busa in gredo lulat. Vsi skupaj stojijo, nekateri klecijo (zelo smesno za videt, toda verjetno zato, da se ne polulajo po hlacah ha ha), zenske pocepnejo in lulajo. Nikomur ni nerodno, to je cisto naravno. Midve z Evo se se vedno nisva cisto navadili in zato raje tisciva in greva na wc, kjer je boljsa priloznost, da se skrijeva za kak grm, vogal ha ha ha Toda vcasih se pac ne da in morava to poceti kot vsi ostali :)

Pocasi zapuscava Tanzanijo in z vso radovednostjo greva v eno izmed najbolj revnih drzav sveta, Malawi. Ne zamudite naslednjega branja. Malawi je drzava, kjer sem zivela moje prejsnje zivljenje

Velik objem.
Cinnemon

We were still in Moshi, still looking for tourists to take them to safari, this was a good opportunity for us to earn some extra money, when me, myself & I twisted my precious ankle :)…roads in Moshi are not exactly what we are used to and when I stepped off the pavement, with road not really in one level, I just kneeled down and my ankle got huge and full of blood in few seconds…so I sat on the pavement, people were staring at me what the hell did mzungu do to herself…and Simona quckly brought me a cold bottle of water to put on my leg and we waited for our friend John, safari guy, who of course did not appear…sometimes is hard to deal with africans, they are not reliable, they say something or you agree on something, later on everything is completely different….they change their mind very quickly….especially when it comes to money….but me and Simona got used to that quite quickly and we don’t trust people here.. .we don’t even get angry, mad or anything, we start to laugh and tell them that they are full of shit, hahaha….and at that point most of them start to laugh….coz they know its bloody true…

As my leg hurted me a lot, I needed to rest for few days…I went into hospital to x-ray my ankle to check if it’s broken…and I could see that machines in hospital..uuuf, they were really old, it seemed like they got it from Europe or America, used ones and not functioning properly…but on the picture it seemed that my leg is just fine….no broken bone or something, hahaha….but maybe that picture was not even a picture of my leg, hahaha, who knows……if I wanted to go to town, I needed to call a taxi..and that’s how I met another person who I spent a lot of time with…Steve, a taxi driver…many times we sang and laughed out loud while driving around as we knew each other forever…if I told him to pick me up in 10 minutes, he needed ages to come,..if I told him to come in about an hour, he was there to pick me up in 5 minutes, hahahahaa…so funny!….yeaaaa, Africans…you go either mad or you laugh like you never laughed before..I’ve obviously chosen the second option, hahahaa…

We were spending very nice and peaceful days in Moshi, each day brought us new adventures, we integrated more and more with people and environment….everything was just too good…that’s why something needed to go wrong,…one evening Simona just started to vomit…once…ok, maybe she ate something strange….twice…huu, maybe really food poisoning…it will be better….but we ate the same food??….third time…and during the night many many times…..I was really concerned…of course the first thought was malaria…she was not really afraid what was going on…she even told me that I don’t need to wake up every time when she was vomiting to take away the liquid left behind, hahaha….when the morning came I took her to a nearby clinic…test they did proved that she has malaria…she was dehydrated that’s why a doctor wanted to give her infusion, but the nurse couldn’t find a vain!!…eii, they really don’t know what they’re doing here!!!, hahaha….then she called for another nurse to help her…she also didn’t do anything…everything was there, a needle, a butterfly for infusion to run into vain, all the drop ins…but later on even 2 doctors couldn’t prepare the infusion because after they finally found a vein, the blood from Simona’s vein just didn’t come out…so there was 5 people around her bed trying to plug in that monstrous infusion, hahahaa,…..I was just watching them and I couldn’t believe that this was really going on….after that disaster they said that she should go home to rest and as she didn’t vomit for the whole morning, maybe she can just drink a rehydration liquid…Simona was pierced already all over her arm that’s why she said that she will take electrolites orally at home…of course we tried that but she started to vomit again…then I grabbed her hand and took her back to clinic furiously…saying that if a whole team of doctors and nurses wont find the bloody vain and start with infusion, that I will do it myself!…she was really weak and she needed help….when we got there, everything went smoothly.. .finally relief!…becouse she couldn’t take drugs against malaria orally, they gave her also infusion of quinine and she needed to stay in the clinic for few days… I realised that Simona was in good hands, doctors and nurses were really concerned and did their best to help her, they were actually very happy to treat mzungu, hahaha..as she was a guest in their home..hahaha…we had a funny conversation with one of the doctors about African and white women…that African men really like if woman has a big butt..and that older African women still have a thin waist (I wouldn agree on that one, hahaha) and bigger butt…but when mzungu gets older, she looks like a bag of maize, hahahahhahahahaa….no shape at all..hahahaha….so I don’t know why they all want so desperately to marry a mzungu, hahaa…first they should rethink what they really want…hahaha…(I will not mention.. or I will do it anyway, that doctors in the clinic wanted to arrange a date with Simona when she gets better…she would be a great woman for themselves, although if they were older, or for their sons, hahahaha…..they are so transparent, ahhahaha and funny! Like little children, hhaha)

Simona stayed for two days in the clinic, after that she was resting at home..but after two days she was already crazily dancing in a club called Glacier nearby…me and Michael were just laughing at her..this woman is crazy..right after very bad malaria, she is on her feet…not only on her feet, but almost exploding of the enrgy!…thats the spirit girl!!!

I already told you that we came in Moshi just to see Kilimanjaro from close…but the things that started to happen to us and people that we started to meet were so great that we just couldn’t leave the place…one of them was Michael, older man from United States, Carolina….he is living in Moshi for the last 3 years and he is really living a peaceful life although his past was really interesting…the life he lived before was a real life adventure…someone should make a movie about that man…when he heard how we are traveling and what we are doing along the way and what are our plans for the future, he offered us to live in his big house for free and as long as we want, otherwise he runs this place as bed & breakfast…that’s how we started to live in Shira place (Shira is one of the Kilimanjaro peaks), a beautiful house with a big garden, with two locals that do all the work around the house (Omari and a maasai Dawdi) and 4 lovely dogs. We got the best room in the house with a huge balcony and a view on Kilimanjaro…u better check the pictures in our Gallery. As we got really good friends with Michael and shared many stories about our lives and laughed a lot, he trusted us so much, that for exchange for staying in his house for free, we can run the place for that time…which means, welcome the guests, preparing them breakfast or whatever else was needed…sometimes Michael was away and we were running the place…and we felt really good…we could imagine to do that for some time…to have a lovely hostel where you meet many interesting people, climbers to Kilimanjaro, volunteers, adventurers…and so many nice people we met in neighbouring villages…that’s why few afternoons when we had time, we cooked lunch for our friends…one time for the kids who live nearby. we prepared them their local food named ugali, but in a little different way :)…ugali is a thick cluster of food made out of white maize flour cooked in water…they usually eat that together with vegetables or meat…it is like a neutral part of a meal, as rice….with no specific taste…so as we are such good cooks, haha, we cooked a slovenian ugali for the kids…we cooked a maize flour in milk and added some sugar and chocolate on top of it…of course we tried that thing already before and we loved it!….when we served that to kids, they had a little bit bittered faces, like, what the hell did mzungu cook to us, hahaha…this is not the right way to prepare ugali…they were quite concerned and thought they need to teach us how to cook real ugali…we were laughing and just instisted that they should try…when they tried the first spoon, they didn’t yet decide whether is it good or bad..they were not used to that of course, but later we could see they love it…those kids really started to like us and they wanted to be in the house every afternoon after school, some of them were standing in front of their homes and waited for us to pass by when we will finally go home…it was sometimes hard to say no to them, but we were also tired now and then and didn’t have energy to cook for them, dance or just talk behind the kitchen table…

We felt like we are at home in this Shira place…first time during our journey we had a kitchen where we could cook whatever we want…finally some serious domestic food…prepared by us….so in the morning we made ourselves great and healthy fruit salads with ice cream…for lunch lots of vegetables, salads, pastas…and as I was dreaming of Slovenian food named ’struklji’ which are best made from my mom, Simona was so kind that she was ready to prepare it for me…and Michael…..and Omari and Dawdi (gardeners) and herself of course, hahahaa….we needed to improvise a bit as we didn’t got all the ingredients…but I must say, those ’struklji’ were fabulous…u could just eat them…some made with soft cheese and raisins and another one made out of apples and raisins…mmmm….I felt like I was at home…exactly like home…I was a little bit afraid of the feeling, ahhaha….but I think you can be home anywhere…where you are…where your heart is…more and more I have a feeling that my home is the world…not just one place…but many…any…a feeling that you don’t belong nowhere and everywhere….that all the people that we meet are all one…we all live on the same planet, all struggling to live a happy and peaceful life…that’s why we need to help each other…and be aware that one without another can’t exist…we need each other…that’s how I feel after all this time…but I think that most of travelers feel like that…you feel like the world is in your little hand…and you can just imagine how many different people, races, tribes with its own culture, tradition, ceremonies, languages, way of thinking, functioning in this world….its amazing how we are all so different but anyway we are all the same, one…I am sometimes soooo amazed….as on the day when our good friend Baraka, he is a maasai, took us to his village…His home is 2 hours away from Moshi, but he is staying in this town to learn English language and to earn some money…lots of maasai people work in town as security guards in front of hotels, hostels, lodges….some of them work in tourism and earn some money with taking tourists to a maasai village…that’s also what Baraka does….first we met him in town of Moshi..and when we started to talk we saw that he is really different from other maasai in his way of thinking…most of maasai people in town want money from you, lost of them are drunkards…it seems like they are somehow lost in a civilized world….but Baraka thinks in his very own way…he is not drinking alcohol, not begging for money or being sneaky to get some…not even he agrees with maasai men to have many wives…he is quite unique for his tribe and because of his way of thinking we had many things to share and talk about …one day early morning he took us to his village…we went with a mini van from Moshi through fields and areas non-populated…through Arusha where me and Simona got maasai clothes, coz we wanted to really blend in ….From little village on our way we took pick up truck to Baraka’s village…when we jumped off of it in the middle of nowhere, just two little houses were there and a vast windy land full of aloe vera plants and donkeys and maasai people walking around in their typical red clothes…such peace, a place far from crazy world in town where loads of people live…..(if you want to know more about maasai culture you can find my post from the beginning of our trip where I visited maasai in Kenya (Eva at Maasai)…)…
We needed to walk for approximately half an hour to get to his village…cows were passing us by, the wind was still blowing, along the road we met some of maasai people from his village greeting us, welcoming us…dusty road among small hills then openned into an open space, open land with little huts on the horizon…soon we came to these huts..people were curious who came into their village..and after we greeted almost all people from the village, he took us to see his family… they welcomed us so nicely…we gave them food we bought on the way: maize, beans, sugar, bread…and quickly they started to prepare a dinner for us, cooked rice and potato and milk tea…while we were waiting for food, we went into another manyatta where we had a lot of laughter with Baraka’s brothers, sister and his grandmother..these people are so simple and because they were not brought up in the society with rules of behaviour on every step, quite crazy, hahaha,,,,ready to laugh and joke around anytime…we were in the dark manyatta, we had just a little fire, we could barely see each other…and we sang and danced,,,they thought us how they dance and jump when they celebrate and how do they sing, what kind of noise they produce, hahahaha…it was a call of nature inside of them…a magnificent voices and sounds coming out of their lungs while jumoing high above….uuhh, u get goose bumps….our laughter could be heard in far off villages for a long time during the night…we all forgot about time, when Baraka came to tell us that dinner is ready…we stood for a while outside on the wind, below the stars…there was completely no light…just nature, few huts, goats and cows were already sleeping in fenced place nearby and endless sky with tons of stars….me and Simona were just standing still with face turned up to the sky,.and we just couldn’t believe how little we are and how magnificent nature is…we could see Southern cross which is seen only on southern hemisphere… maaasai told us that their light during the night are Stars and the Moon…they can walk around during the night with no problem…
After we had a lovely simple dinner we went to sleep…four of us in a manyatta with no fire…we slept on a bed made out of branches of a tree covered with a bag of maize I think.,..and we were covered with maasai kanga…but my goodness, ahhaha, the night was really cold, the wind was blowing through the holes in the hut…we were shivering..and laughing coz none of us could sleep…the next thing that was bothering us during the night were bed bugs who were crawling everywhere…it was quite an experience, hahaa…Baraka told us that this manyatta was not regularly used and because we didn’t have fire, bugs were everywhere…but ok, hakuna matata, we got used to almost everything by now…the next morning we woke up into a beautiful morning in a maasai land…maasai were already releasing goats and cows on the field…..we felt like we are somewhere in Slovenian mountains, with cow bells, wind, short grass eaten by cattle and very simple and kind people…it felt like we are at home..and we were also treated that way….we could just stay there..a feeling that we belong there was very intense…if I was not brought up in a civilized world with endless options what to do, with cinema, theatre, concerts, bookshops, cycling and many many more, I could live there forever without missing anything (coz I wouldn’t even know what is possible of course)..but now, the way I am, I could stay there for a month, maybe few months then I would start to miss other things….but definitely this is a place where I can go when I am fed up with people and life in the city…they told us that we are always welcomed, we are family…and we can come anytime….these people are so warm, they are all brothers and sisters, they help each other and they share everything…even women, hahaha
Maasai men are really kind to every white woman..Baraka was really kind to both of us…we were like big happy family, the three of us, walking around Moshi hand in hand…no jealousy, nothing….like brothers and sisters, love between friends….we all love each other and we are sure we will meet again and share even more together…
Before we left and said goodbye to the family, we went to maasai meat market, which is held every Saturday…they slaughter goats there and put the meat on fire for morans (maasai warriors) to enjoy the feast… eating meat like that is just for Morans, women can’t be part of it or even is forbidden to see them, me and Simona were exceptions…father of Baraka bought a big piece of goat meat and we went to a hidden place and set down in the circle..Baraka started to cut meat with his huge knife and delivering it to hungry dogs, ahhaha…us…Simona was the only one not eating it, coz she is a vegetarian..and we were both surprised how maasai weren’t surprised and didn’t ask her why she doesn’t eat meat, but excepted her decision as nomal…
Then we had to say goodbye to our good friends and went again on a pick up and drove away with a wind in our hair..the memories from this village and people will be never forgotten….what a precious lifetime experience…

Let me tell you just another few words about a woman we met in Moshi named Jane, she is an Indian and she introduced her religion called Jainism to us…she has a little shop with arts and crafts and many days we just hanged out in her place and we talked about life and life after death…she was telling us about Jainism, one of the oldest religions in the world ..it was known before Hinduism and Budhism and is not really known outside of India…she told us the philosophy of this religion which the basics you can read here:

PREACHINGS OF BHAGWAN MAHAVIRA - JAINISM

Every soul is independent. None depends on another.

All souls are alike. None is superior or inferior.

Every soul is in itself absolutely omniscient and blissful. The bliss does not come from outside.

Not only soul, but every object of the universe also, is subject to change by itself, without any external interference.

All human beings are miserable due to their own faults, and they can themselves be happy by rectifying the same.

The greatest mistake of a soul is non-recognition of its real-self and it can only be rectified by recognising itself.

There is no separate existence of God. Every body can attain Godhood by making supreme efforts in the right directions.

‘Know thyself; recognize thyself; be immersed by thyself’ - you will attain Godhood.

God is neither the creator nor the destructor of the universe. He is merely a silent observer and omniscent.

One, who, even after knowing the whole universe can remain unaffected and unattached is God.

When I was reading that I kinda knew everything already before…it seemed so familiar to me…this kind of religion is far better for me than Christianity in which I was brought up…

Jane took us also to see their little praying ceremony in their temple and after we went to a house where she lived before where now lives sister of her husband and her husband…and I was so surprised when we came there, we just said good evening to each other then we silently went to living room, where her husband was already meditating and we joined him….we had a beautiful music on and we all started to meditate ..this was so intense for me and sooo overwhelming….instead of saying millions of words where do we come from or what do we do in africa and things like that that most of people are asking us, we just sat silently and shared half an hour of meditation …this would be so nice to experience at home…that instead of going out for a coffee with a friend, we could just share few moments of silence together ….huu, long way to achieve that, hahahaa…

How better to end my post than with a poem that I really love:

The patterns the sea water makes as it moves around my feet
Are ALWAYS NEW, ALWAYS CHANGING.
This is a reminder that EVERY MOMENT IS FRESH.
The receding water tells me what I CAN LET GO of.
The incoming waters are the MEMORIES that are WORTH KEEPING.
The sound off the waves lapping on the shore evokes the realization that SOME THINGS ARE BETTER UNDERSTOOD WITHOUT WORDS.
The swirling water insists that I LIVE LIFE TO THE FULL.
The hills beyond the horizon of the ocean are the STRENGTH and STEADINESS OF MY BEING.
The SKY ABOVE with changing cloud formations and colours are MY ASPIRATIONS.
The gentle breeze with its changing direction is a suggestion to REMAIN CALM AND PEACEFULL when possible.
The soft sand receiving the imprints of my feet gives hints of FLEXIBILITY.
As I walk away from the ocean I give GRATITUDE for what it shows me.

(A VISIT TO THE SEA by Murray Rogers)

Big hug,

eva

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Moshi je prikupno mestece, ki je naju je z Evo cisto ocaral. Tu naj bi ostali le dva dni, da vidiva Kilimanjaro, toda tu ostajava ze cele tri tedne. Po safariju sva Johnu pomagali zopet loviti muzunge in med sprehajanjem po ulicah si je Eva zvila glezenj!!! Jej jej jej! Oteklina je bila v trentuku zelo velika, tako da je bila primorana pocivat. Za vsak slucaj sva sle se slikat, da se prepricava, da ni zlomljena. Eva pripoveduje, da so aparati za slikanje za odpis ter da jo sploh niso zascitili proti sevanju. Zdaj naju tu zadrzuje Evina noga in je ze z razlogom praviva, cas bo pokazal namen najinega dolgega postanka tu v Moshiju. Ziviva v veliki razkosni hisi, lodgu za turiste, katerega lastnik je American Michael, ki sem ga spoznala preko Johanne. Po kratki debati o tem kaj pocneva in kaksne sanje imava, sva Michaela cisto prevzeli in zato nama je prijazno ponudil zastonj prenocisce. V zameno sva mu pomagali pri pripravi zajtrkov za goste in bilo je prav zabavno. Naslednje dni sva nato skrbeli, da je vse potekalo tako kot mora potekati v cisto pravem hotelu. Vcasih je Michael odsel v Arusho in tako sva bili sami in sva se pocutili kot lastnici hise. Ko sva ze zaceli razmisljati, da bo potrebno iti naprej, me doleti huda slabost!! Bruham celo noc in cel dan, v sebe ne spravim prav nic, sploh nevem vec kaj naj bruham, kot le zolcno kislino!!! Se trudim, da spijem vsaj nekaj vode, da jo kasneje zbruham ha ha Eva je zelo zaskrbljena z mojim zdravjem in me nekako spravi v najblizjo bolnico, ki je bila na sreco le za vogalom ha ha kako pripravno! Po obicajnem postopku, pik v prstek in pregled krvi, ki pokaze, da imam malarijo! Uf! Tole pa ne bo zabavno. Po eni strani sem kriva sama, saj sem pred nekaj tedni nehala jemati Lariam, po katerem sem imela stranske ucinke, zato sem se tudi odlocila da jih preneham jesti. Ker zdravnik ugotovi, da sem ze zelo dehidrirana se odloci, da mi bodo dali infuzijo, da pride moje telo vsaj malce k sebi. Dobim se inekcijo v rit, proti bruhanju in nato se zacne lov na mojo kri ha ha… Okrog mene se nabere cela ekipa zdravnikov, saj nikomur ni uspelo v mojo zilo pravilno zapiciti igle, da bi pritekla kri. Vse zelo dobro prenasam in se se vedno smejim ter zabavam sestre in zdravnike. Zdaj res nevem ali je moja kri ze cisto posusena ali pa tile tu ne znajo kako se to pravilno dela. Vse je brez uspeha in zato mi dajo tablete ter posljejo domov pocivat. Ker se vedno bruham in seveda zbruham vsa zdravila, me Eva odlocno pelje nazaj v bolnico trdno prepricana, da jim tokrat mora ratat, drugace mi bo ona nasla pravo zilo s polno krvi ha ha ha… tole pa ne bo zabavno, da bo morala res Eva spikat po moji roki iiiii ok, toda ni panike, itak ne cutim nic vec, tako da me lahko prespikajo kolikor hocejo ha ha In smo ze nazaj v bolnici, ter zopet ekipa zdravnikov, zdaj se nekaj novih. Na veliko sreco, zopet po nekaj poizkusih koncno pritece moja kri. O kako sem jo bila vesela ha ha ha …in kapljice zacnejo kapljati v mojo zilo, drop drop drop… pocasi pocasi cela dva dneva in dve noci…zdravniki in sestre so zelo prijazni in se mi zdi, da so bili zelo ponosni, da imajo eno muzungu pri sebi. Med infuzijo dobim se kinin, ker zdravila itak niso mogla ostati v mojem zelodcu!!!! Ni ravno fajn, ker je to zelo mocno zdravilo, samo kaj cmo, zdaj sem cisto prepuscena njim in onemu zgoraj…Po dveh dneh odidem domov in se po parih dneh ze lahko sprehajam po ulicah Moshija. Vse zivo mi je hodilo po glavi, ko sem lezala v postelji, ter bila vsa omoticna od zdravil. Kot bi imela en uvid v moje poslanstvo, kdo sem in s kaksnim razlogom sem se rodila, kaj je namen mojega zivljenja tu na zemlji in kaj je moja vecna lucka srece, ki nikoli ne bo ugasnila. Vas zelo zanima? Verjamem, da vas matra firbc, toda ne povem, to razkrijem takrat, ko bo pravi cas zato. ha ha Vse ob pravem casu, pravijo

Zopet nazaj v lokalni svet, ulicno zivljenje Chagga ljudi. Ljudi, ki zivijo pod mogocnim Kilimanjarom. Zdaj sem ga videla ze veckrat ha ha in me je cisto ocaral, tako da naslednjic, ko pridem nazaj se 100% podam v njegovo blizino. Se mi kdo pridruzi?

Na ulicah sva spoznali zanimive ljudi, ocitno zopet prave, da naju ucijo. V lokalni trgovinici sva zaceli pogovor z zadrzano Indijko Jane. Toda takoj sva ji odprle srece z najino preprostostjo, smehom in navihanostjo. Jane naju je cisto prevzela in navdusila z Jainismom, njeno vero in nacinom zivljenja. Vso modrost in znanja, ki nama jih je predala v nekaj tednih, so nama bili tako blizu. Vedeli sva za Budizem in Hinduizem, kateremu sledi vecina Indijcev, toda za Jainism se prej nisva zanimali. Jainism je ena izmed najstarejsih ver na svetu in ni toliko znana zunaj Indije. Tudi v Indiji tej veri sledi le manjsina ljudi, nekje stiri milijone. Je predhodnica Hinduizma in Budizma. Jainism-ov vesolje je sestavljeno iz sestih elementov, od katerih je najbolj vazno “Zivljenje”. Jainisti verjamejo, da zivljenje ne obstaja le na drugih planetih, ampak tudi zunaj soncnega sistema. Vsako bitje ima duso. Ne samo clovek tudi zivali, drevesa, rastline, bakterije mikroskopski virusi. Je zivljenje tudi v blatu, vodi, zraku, ognju, in luci, katerega ne moremo videti z ocesom ali natancnim mikroskopom. Vsaka dusa je enaka in je neodvisna, vecna, neumrljiva in nevidna. Na koncu telo umre, toda dusa ne. Dusa se rearkarnira v drugo zivljenje. Nato se dusa non stop rearkarnira iz zviljenja v zivljenje dokler se ne osvobodi sebe od kroga rojstva in smrti. Ko se osvobodi oz. resi t.i. Moksha ali Nirwan, ni ji potrebno nikoli vec vstopiti v krog rojstva in smrti. In da doseze ta najvecji cilj Moksha, Jainism razlozi v Zakonu Karme in pokaze pot od Moksha.

Jane naju je tudi povabila k sebi domov in pokazala njen oltarcek za molitev in meditacijo. Pridruzili sva se ji tudi v templu pri njihovem obredu, kjer molijo mantre, besede, ki jih non stop ponavljajo, ter pojejo lepe pesmi. Na oltarju imajo kipce svojih bogov. Zadnji clovek, ki je dosegel Nirwan-je Lord Mahavir, 24-i zapovrstjo, ki je reorganiziral vero Janisma. Prvi je Lord Rishabhadev. Kar me je najbolj pritegnilo pri tej veri je to, da je Lord Mahavir rekel, da vsa ziva bitja si zasluzijo ziveti in ne umreti. Zato nihce nima pravice vzeti zivljenja nekomu drugemu. Zato ubijanje je najvecji greh. Tudi ubijanje zivali je za Jainism velik greh. Moramo spostovati vsa zivljenja na zemlji, saj je zviljenje dragoceno za vakogar. Zato ne samo “Zivi in pusti ziveti” ampak “Zivi in pomagaj drugim v zivljenju”. Vesolje je polno zivecih bitij, velikih in malih zato je nemogoce ziveti ne da bi ubili ali poskodovali kako bitje. Nekatera zivljenja so ubita ko pijemo in jemo hrano. Zato za Jainism bi bil ideal minimum ubijanja. In se in se bi lahko pisala o tej cudoviti veri, ki verjame v cloveka, v sebe, v vsakega posameznika, v druge…zdaj imam velko zeljo, da tej veri sledim in se o njej se vec poucim, saj sem prepoznala, da tako zivljenje zivim ze kar nekaj let…neverjetno v Afriki najdem vero, ki sem jo na nek nacin iskala ze od rojstva…

V Moshiju imava zdaj ze veliko prijateljev in ob cesti, kjer sva vsak dan pesacili v mesto, sva spoznali Msamya, umetnika, ki rise cudovite slike. Takoj naju je pritegnil s svojo karizmo in pripravljenostjo se pogajati o dobri ceni za slike, medtem ko so drugi bili zelo ponosni in trdno odloceni o svoji ceni. Msamy je oddajal energijo skromnosti, topline in prijaznosti. Svoje slike prodaja v eni izmed lesenih hisic, ki pa je edina brez strehe, tako da te cudovite slike pocasi unicuje dez in veter. Ker sva mu zeleli pomagati, sva od njega kupili slike, s to prodajo si bi lahko kupil novo streho, toda vse se je zapletlo. Njegov sef hisice je od ljubosumja popenil, saj je Msamy prodal veliko slik in v prihodnosti sva mu bili tudi pripravljeni pomagat. Z vso jezo je zacel metati njegove slike na prosto ter postavil Msamya pred hisico. Groza! Skokirani od takega pocetja, in sploh ne razumeva, saj bi pomagali tudi njegovemu sefu, da bi dobil novo streho. S Msamy-jem se nato pogovorimo, ter sosed iz sosednje hisice je takoj pripravljen sprejeti Msamy-ja pod njegovo streho, toda tudi tu bo moral placati delez od prodane slike. Za Msamya zeliva v prihodnje, da mu zgradiva njegovo hisico in bo on sef svoje hisice, ter bo on imel pod streho se druge umetnike. Z njim sva ostali v dobrem stiku in tam imava tudi ljudi, ki bodo Msamya obiskovali ter nama porocali o odnosih, ki se godijo v Makonde vasi.

Hisica v kateri ziviva nama je prirasla k srcu in res se pocutiva kot doma. Tako sva tudi izkoristili kuhinjo, saj prej nisva imeli moznosti kuhanja. Neko popoldne se odlociva, da narediva struklje, ki jih je Eva sanjala ze od mojega prihoda in tudi da presenetiva Michaela in njegova dva vrtnarja oz. skrbnika hise Omarija in Dawdi-ja se s slovensko tradicionalno hrano. Zelo sva morali improvizirati, saj nisva imeli osnovnih gospodinjskih pripomockov in tudi sircka tu ne poznajo, tako da sva dali kar malce mehkejsi sir in so bili tudi taki zelo zelo dobri :) V najino hisko sva povabili tudi sosednje otroke, katerim sva skuhali ugali kuhan v mleku potresen s cokolado v prahu. Zgledalo je tako kot nas gris, toda okus je bil malce drugacen. Ko bi lahko videli te namrscene otroske obraze in sramezljiv smeh, kako so pocasi nosili zlico k svojim ustom… ha ha… bi se nasmejali do solz. Hoteli so naju nauciti kako se pravilno kuha ugali, toda midve sva vztrajali, da je to slovenski ugali ha ha ha… Glavno je, da sva jih nasmejali in popestrili dan.

In nato se zadnji dnevi v Moshiju oz. stiri ure voznje ven iz mesta, natancno v Masajski vasici, v katero naju je povabil najin prijatelj Baraka, ki sva ga spoznali na ulicah Moshija. Baraka je masaj in svoj cas prezivlja v mestu, kjer hodi v solo in se uci anglescine ter obcasno kot nocni cuvaj his belcev, sluzi denar. Imeli sva res sreco, da sva ga spoznali, saj je fant, ki je zelo drugacen od drugih, izareva toplino, prijaznost in nikoli naju ni skusal prinesti okrog s kaksnim trikom, ki ga tu skusa izpeljati vecina. Zgodaj zjutraj smo se vsedli na matatu ter peljali do Arushe od tam smo morali presesti in vzeti drugi matatu, ki nas je pripeljal do prve vasice, kjer smo nato nakupili fasngo za Barakovo druzino (kruh, riz, ugali, fizol, itd.), kot darilo za dobrodoslico. Od tu smo nato poskakali na kamijoncek in se se kakih pol ure peljali po strmi cesti navzgor, skozi gozd in cudovito naravo. Nato smo koncno prispeli na kraj, kjer vsako soboto poteka masaji market in od tu je bilo potrebno se kakih 25 minut hoje, da smo prisli do Barakove masajske vasi. Noro, noro, noro, kraj me je spominjal na Ngorogoro krater, saj je bil kraj povsod okrog obdan s hiribi, na sredi pa se je razprostirala ravnina, kjer so se pasle krave in koze. Barakova druzina nas je prijazno sprejela. Obiskali sva tudi druge manjate in ker se je ze zvecerilo, je bilo v njej zelo temno, na sredi je tlel le ogenj. Tezko je bilo videti drug drugega, toda vseeno smo se zabavali in plesali masaji ples. Skakali po manjati in izpuscali nenavadne glasove, ter se smejali da je odmevalo dalec naokrog. Kmalu zatem so prisle kozice, tudi cisto male, ki so zapolnile manjato. Eva je vzela eno v narocje, toda masaji so rekli, da to ni dobro, ker se lahko navadi na ljudi in ne bo vec hotela biti del crede, tako da tega oni ne pocnejo! Aha. Toda vseeno Baraka pripoveduje, da ima eno kozo, ki mu je pri srcu in jo ima zelo rad, toda ze v drugem stavku pravi, ko bo prisel njen cas, ko jo bo zaklal in pojedel, ter se zacne na glas smejati… ha ha…

Zunaj so zarele zvezde, na nebu je sijal Southern cross - juzni kriz, ki se ga vidi le iz juzne poloble… bilo je carobno stati v masajski vasi, kjer je vladala tisina, sem ter tja se je slisal zvenket kravjega zvonca in meket koze, ter kak masaj, ki je privihtel mimo, ter povedal, da so zvezde in luna masajska nocna razsvetljava ha ha in smo se zopet smejali…in bil je ze cas za vecerjo, ki smo jo imeli v nasi manjati, kjer smo tudi prenocili. Za vecerjo smo imeli riz kuhan s krompirjem ter caj z mlekom. Noc je bila dolga, saj nisem mogla zatisniti ocesa. Kot prvo so me po celem telesu grizle bolhe. Cutila sem jih prav povsod, vsak njihov gib, kot da se hocejo zalezti pod mojo kozo… oh…zelo neprijeten obcutek…nato se je se malce ohladilo in kanga s katero sem bila pokrita je bila zelo tanka. Zunaj je bilo slisati sepet vetra in zvenket kravjih zvoncev, misli so sinile na Slovenske gore in na pastirske koce ter pastirje, kjer sem prezivljala moje poletne dni v druzbi prijaznih in skromnih ljudi. Bilo je kot doma…stopim ven v temno vas, nad seboj zagledam luno in sibajoce oblake, razprem roke, vdihnem svezi zrak in se pocutim zelo svobodno, obcutek je tak, da je svet na moji dlani :) nepozabni obcutki zavedno…

Sveze jutro, pripravlja se k dezju, crni oblaki se kazejo izza hriba…vsi pomeckani in neprespani se odpravimo na krajsi sprehod po masajski zemlji, med koruzo in polji…pojemo peceno koruzo, spijemo caj ter kislo mleko… ter nato obcudujemo masaje, morane pri njihovem plesu… bilo je zelo zabavno, saj niso uprizorili predstave za turiste, bili so to kar so, preprosti fantje, ki se radi zabavajo in hecajo…tako, da je bil ta ples iz srca, izpadel je prav smesno in vsi skupaj smo se zelo nasmejali…

Nato slovo od masajske stevilcne druzine ter direktno na masaji market, kjer so si privoscili peceno kozo. Skupaj z Evo so se posedli v krogu, v skritem koticku, saj morane pri jedi mesa ne smejo videti zenske, midve z Evo sva bili izjema ha ha oz. jaz sem jih le gledala, snemala in fotkala pri deljenju mesa, ki so ga zmazali kot lacni psi. Zelo presenetljivo, sploh me niso obsojali oz. pretirano sprasevali zakaj ne jem mesa, so zelo dobro pouceni glede vegetarijanstva. V tem pogledu so me pozitivno presenetili. Baraka je celo uposteval mojo zeljo, da za moj prihod ne smejo zaklati koze, kot je v obicaju, in res tega niso stroili. Po marketu zopet na kamijoncek in viiii voznja na prtljazniku, veter v laseh in cudovita narava…

O masajski kulturi vam ne bi rada prevec podrobno pisala, saj je Eva na zacetku najine poti o tem kar podrobno napisala. To si lahko preberete na zacetku najinih postov (Eva pri masajih). In tudi razmisljam, da napisem podroben clanek za kaksno revijo, tako da boste vec o tem lahko prebrali v njej. Njihova kultura in nacina zivljenja je zelo zanimiva, ceprav pocasi bledi, saj tehnologija in razvoj posega v njihovo okolje. Vsak masaj ima ze mobitel, tako da sva z njimi od zdaj naprej v dobrem kontaktu preko sms-ov ali mailov. Poznajo zgodbo Bele masajke in vsak masaj bi si zelel se eno belo zensko ha ha ce bi si zeleli poroke bi jo takoj priredili za naju, lahko bi imeli skupaj enega moza in ko sem rekla ce bi tudi midve lahko imeli po dva ali tri moze, so odlocno odkimali no no no possible, ni mozno!!! Vprasali so naju, ce sva ze kje na svetu videli zenske, ki bi lahko imele vec mozov??? Njihovo delovanje je podobno zivalskemu, nagonsko vedenje, posnemanje iz naravnega okolja, ki jih obdaja. Moski so lahko zelo pozorni do vsake zenske. Tako je bil Baraka zelo prijazen do obeh, obe je brez problema prijel za roko in smo skupaj hodili po ulicah Moshija. Nic nenavadnega, tu se celo moski drzijo za roko in ne mislit, da so geji. Gre le za izkazovanje prijateljske ljubezni. Vsi so bratje in sestre, ki bodo brezpogojno poskrbeli drug za drugega. Za ljubosumje ni prostora, ker ce ga gojis te lahko ubije! Z Evo sva se tako naucili deliti to prijateljsko pozornost od Barake do naju….in se mnogo vec…

Priznajte svoje slabe lastnosti in jih pustite oditi…osvobodite duso in podzavest, vsi smo eno in drug brez drugega zivljenje bi bilo prazno. Odpuscajmo skupaj in delimo sreco na vsakem koraku…

Simona

First Europeans that arrived to East Africa were Portuguesecthey came here in a time of Arabic Omani Empire. Omani sultan was the biggest trader of slaves in this part of Africa. Later on British Empire suppressed trading of slaves (Dr. Livingstone). Cca. 40% of people are Muslim, cca. 40% are Christian, the rest are Hindu, Sikhs and local tradition believers.

If you want to enter country of Tanzania, you will have to pay 50 usd for 3 month visa and from Rwandan side you will pass great Rusumo falls..awesome to see this huge power of water! When we entered the country we met a guy from New Zealand. He was quite good and safe company to pass the border. We took a taxi for the first 20 km to get to a place where we can catch matatu, a small van. Taxi driver was somehow weird, me and Simona felt that there is something in the air. New Zealand guy was sitting in front, me and Simona stucked on the back sits together with two local guys…what was going on here, r u planning to rob us or what??..those guys speaking their own language (Swahili) and we didnt understand a thing…in such situations me and Simona usually start to make jokes, we start to laugh as crazy and try to break the atmosphere, we started to take pictures with them..hahaha,…and usually it works, u occupy their mind and they have no space to think and in the midtime they forget if they were up to something :)…but it happens many times that taxi driver is connected with other local guys through phone..and taxi driver just stops somewhere, of course he knows exactly where and when, coz everything is planned in advance…and robbers come and take everything you have..our driver was driving crazily..sometimes quick, then again very very slow, on the other side of the street and constantly looking in the review mirror like he was waiting for someone, checking if there is anyone on the horizon..this man didnt even want to stop his car at the matatu station, he wanted to take us all the way to far Kahama…mmm, why oohh why?..we smelled the coffee..and New Zealand guy convinced him to stop the car in a little bit rude way!…we were finally safe… We slept over in Kahama, very dusty and dirty little town, but still cute with people on the street who sell corn, little local shops and many busses that cross the vast land of Tanzania.

Next morning we packed ourselves on a big bus to Arusha, northern part of Tanzania, where they produce a lot of Arabica coffee and very close is great mountain of Kilimanjaro. We sat on the backseats as usual and we had quite a journey..almost 12 hours of jumping around the bus, together with our backpacks coz of a bumpy road…but I enjoyed it a lot, hahaha…I laughed a lot and the scenery was amazing..from very green and hilly Rwanda the environment became more dry, brown, dusty and at times muddy..we were passing vast fields of sunflowers..can u imagine beautiful green colour at the bottom, above sunny flowers and above them just a blue endless sky..I took many unforgettable pictures along the way..what a nice place to be..later on we passed Maasai land full of manyattas, cows, massai dressed in red cangas…then huge rocks which were dispersed on the ground like god was playing a game to amuse himself 

The bus was packed with people..some were also standing for many hours coz there was no space for all…of course not to mention, we had also animals on board..chicken, hens..they usually tie them for their legs and carry them around upside downccan u imagine to look at the world around you from this perspective, hahahaha..

After many hours of exhausting driving we came to Arusha. We were so tired that we just wanted to quickly find a place to sleep and just go resting. There were two guys on the bus station (among many who want to take u somewhere..safari, hotel..) who said that they know a cheap place for us to stay near the bus stationcwe said ok..and really they showed us a place (Amazon hotel) which was nice and cheap..and obviously the receptionist girl and those two guys knew each other call of them escorted us to our room in the first floor..thats weird…why dont they just wait downstairs or better leave??…we just put off our backpacks, took a shower and at the late afternoon just fell asleep…during the night I woke myself up because of some strange noise..like somebody would throw my pants on the floor and I could hear the belt making a metal sound..I just checked if my pants were still there (coz inside I have a hidden pocket for money, credit cards..) and they were still there..and I fell asleep again..in the morning, in the new day with many expectations what will the day bring, I found out that my camera is missing!…after checking all the places for at least three times I was sure that during the night when we were sleeping somebody stole my camera through the windowchow appropriate, the window glass couldnt be closed, the patent was broken..all we had on the windows were bars..so what happened?..somebody climbed the roof to get in the first floor and with a curved stick took my camera from my opened backpack…as those two guys knew exactly in which room are we, they were the first suspects cthats why I went downstairs to the receptionist girl, she was just laughing when I told her that they robbed me during the nightcas she already knew everything…then me and Simona went to the police station..me for the third time in Africa now, hahaaha..it seems I have to check it in every country if they are doing their work properly ..so far I must say they dont! ..I was trying to explain what happened to the officer and he was pretty dumb, asking me the same questions over and over, I almost lost my nerves there..thats why I wrote the report in their book myself, because he was not capable of and it would take him 2 days to write it..they said that the next day they will start to investigate…so me and Simona spent 4 days at the police station, hahaha..we were not locked in, but we had to visit them, check on them, every day…the last day at the police station we met Baboo, older mzungu from Germany who was beaten up and robbed in the middle of the night when driving with a taxi…taxi stopped someplace where robbers (drivers friends) threw him out of the car and took everything he had…so he was lying beside the road unconscious and beaten up..after few hours finally some local guy took him to police… Baboo had no money, no documents, nothing left …thats why we gave him some money to go to Dar Es Salaam to embassy for help, to make himself a new passport ..As Baboo was a long time a police officer in Johannesburg, South Africa and in Namibia, he had connections at the police station and he wasnt really silent there..and he was right about their tourism..it will slowly die if the country wont be safe…but those policemen were not really serious, they didnt even care that much, it was more important if we are single and if we would marry them…we should film these stupid conversations..Baboo helped us to talk to chief officer and as we were explaining that we were journalists ( you need to adapt the story of course) and that without my camera we cannot work properly, they took us to the bus station where we met those two guys who showed us the cheap hotel in the first place..with a police car we went first to see the receptionist of a hotel who was in my opinion part of the network which was stealing things from wazungu white people. Those two guys bring people to her hotel, they rob people during the night and later they share the money…the girl said that she doesnt know anything..but of course, how not, hahaha..then we went to the police station, together with two policemen in civil..then it was like in the movie…me and Simona walking around the place..black people were pushing us around, trying to sell us things, trying to find us accommodation or a bus to anywhere…we were occupied with people on every step…and we were just looking for those two guys…policemen in civil were walking 10 to 15 metres behind us…when we already thought that these guys are not there, one of them just appeared in front of us….we started to talk, shook hands like old friends and we just gave policemen a sign that he is one of them..then police officers approached and took him by his hand and took him away..where else than at the police station..there was the whole bus station looking at us, what was going on …and this guy showed his angry and ugly face, he said that he will find us afterwards!…this was a serious threat!..we didnt feel quite good afterwards..we just wanted to erase and rewind few of the steps, obviously we went too far, we are in Tanzania, many strange things happen around here..but all I wanted was my camera back!..I told this guy that everything is ok, just give me back my stuff …and then everything went too far…honestly I felt scared and not secure..of course this guy has friends all over town, he can tell someone else to find us..and who knows what would happen..we were already staying in another place, coz in the place where they steal we will not live…and we wanted to leave Arusha as soon as possible…we didnt feel safe there…fortunatelly our friend Peter from Rwanda gave us a number of his friend in Arusha and he took us to matatu station where we left to a smaller town called Moshi, just to see Kilimanjaro from far, coz we couldnt afford 1000 usd or more to climb the mountain (next time for sure!:)) We planned to stay in Moshi just one day, to see the highest mountain of Africa. Of course with planning you dont go far..life turns everything upside down..that is when life gets really interesting :)..why??..we stayed in Moshi for more than a month!…becouse so many great things have happened and so many great people we met! First of all we met a man from South Carolina..he gave us a place to stay, for free..and this house is little bit outside of city center and in such a nice environment..african countryside with a stunning view on Kilimanjaro..the next great person we met was Johanna from North Carolina. She was doing a volunteer work as a nurse and was traveling alone through Tanzania and Kenya. We met her one day when we were having breakfast in our hostel. She was trying to find another wazungu to go on safari so the price would be lower for a bigger group. She connected us with John, the owner of a safari agency..and we made a good business. If we find another 10 people, we can go on 3 day safari for free! So we were running around Moshi for the next three days trying to find white people to join us on safari. We went to all the tourist spots in town and trying to sell 3 day safari in this low season. Of course this was not that easy, usually the tourists make a booking already from their home country…but we managed to form a group of seven girls and we needed to pay small money, but comparing to full price, let me say, we couldnt afford it, hahaha…thats how me and Simona went on another safari for a very cheap price.  We went to National park Tarangire, Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro crater. First day, Tarangire..beautiful place full of enormous elephants, zebras, impalas, giraffs…just uverture to a second day - Ngorongoro crater..this is when I experienced heaven..on Earth ..we dont need to die, we are already there, hahaha..we drove into a crater where a vast land was blooming..we arrived just in the right time, when there were fields of flowers blooming in yellow and violet colour…around those fields were hills the edge of crater..and inside the crater among this flowers live many different species of animals…buffalos, elephants, lions, hyenas, heartbeests, warthogs making love, hahaha..and the beautifullest view of all - on the shore of the lake there were many pink flamingos and zebras walking along the beach…aiaiaaaaaiiii, this is unforgettable view and a very precious moments of my life..this is what my heart desire..nature, animals who just live their life and dont bother for human observers..such peace..and such joy in my heart..I wish I was there alone, with no people, just me and the nature in its magnificent form!..pictures in my head I will never forget!

Third day we went to Lake Manyara, but as I’ve seen the beauty of Ngorongoro, nothing can compare with it..

This is a time when I found out I want to do documentaries of nature - animals, people, stories not just from Africa, but from all over the world. Of course I didnt make movies before, but im sure I can learn how to do that ..as long as it is a good story

If there is a will, there is a way…Dont forget, everything is possible

With love,

eva

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…in ze sva v cetrti drzavi vzhodne Afrike, Tanzaniji…

zelo turisticna drzava, sploh na vzhodnem delu drzave, na meji s Kenijo, kjer se razprostirajo cudoviti nacionalni parki polni zanimivih zivali, najvisja gora Afrike, Kilimanjaro, ter pescene obale z otokom Zanzibar. Uradni jezik je swahili ter anglescina, tako da sporazumevanje poteka v vecini primerov vredu. Tanzanijci so zelo ponosni na svoj jezik, ter od belcev pricakujejo, da razumemo vsaj nekaj osnovnih besed swahilija. Zato sva z Evo kaj hitro osvojili osnovne besede, da bi se tako hitreje prikupili lokalnim ljudem.

Iz Kigalija sva se vsedli na matatu, mali busek in se peljali do meje s Tanzanijo. Tocno na meji so cudoviti Rusmo slapovi, ki so odsevali mavricno mavrico. Nato sva preckali most, ter se z otezenimi ruzaki vzpeli po cesti navzgor, vse do Tanzanijske meje. Pri nosenju tezkih ruzakov nama je pomagal Novo Zelandski gospod, katerega sva bili prav veseli, saj nadaljevanje poti od Tanzanijske meje ni bilo ravno enostavno. Na meji placava vizo, toda jaz ne bi bila Simona, ce se ne bi pohecala z uradnikom, ter ga vprasala, ce lahko dobim zastonj vizo ha ha… Na presenecenje je rekel uradnik, da je mozno, toda ne bi smela govorit na glas, da me ne bi slisali se drugi, mi je tako potiho namignil. “Velja pa za drugic”, mi obljubi. Hm, da se se enkrat vrnem na to mejo? Ja nikoli se neve, pa drugic… nato je bilo potrebno vzeti taksi za dobrih 20km do prve povezave z avtobusi. Ker sva prebrali, da je Tanzanija kar nevarna drzava v primerjavi s prejsnjimi, sva takoj v podzavesti ustvarili strah, ki ga je bilo na trenutke cutiti, ko smo se vozili v taksiju. Sofer je vozil pocasi, se ustavljal, pretirano spremljaj promet v ogledalu, bil nekako nervozen in pogledoval proti Novo Zelandskemu gospodu, ki je sedel na sprednjem sedezu. Midve z Evo sva sedeli zadaj stlaceni se z dvema lokalnima fantoma. Tudi onedva nista zgledala ravno nedlozno. Ko smo prispeli do povezave z matatuji, voznik taksija ni hotel zapeljati do tja, zdaj se je premislil in zahteval da nas pelje dalje, da nam ne bo racunal vec kot stane bus itd… bla bla bla se dobro, da je Novo Zelandski gospod popenil in nas vse tri spravil iz taksija. Nato smo se vsedli na matatu in peljali do prvega vecjega mesta Kahame, kjer smo prenocili.

Zgodaj zjutraj smo se poslovili, saj smo vsi nadaljevali pot v drugo smer, midve proti Arushi. Z velikimi ruzaki se namestiva na zadnje sedeze, da bi bili bolj komot, toda  kaj kmalu se je izkazalo, da je bila izbira zelo zelo slaba. Cesta je na trenutke bila tako razrukana, da sva poskakovali do stropa. S prva je bilo zelo smesno in sva se smejali, toda ce se clovek vozi po taki cesti, polni lukenj, celih 12 ur, ti pocasi zacne presedati. Trpi rit in hrbtenica! Toda kljub temu je bila narava cudovita in vredna vsega poskakovanja. Kaj kmalu je bilo opaziti, da narava spreminja podobo, vsi tisti Ruandski hribcki so izginili, ter se je pokazala suha rjava ravnina. Vozili smo se mimo vasi, po prasnih cestah, se vmes skoraj zarili v blato, itd… med drugim postankom izkoristiva za wc ter odideva skupaj, ceprav mi je obcutek govoril, da ni dobro pustiti ruzakov samih. In res ko prideva nazaj, na zadnjih sedezeh ni bilo vec najine prtljage!!! Takoj stopim do odgovornega in zahtevam, da nama pokazejo ruzake, ki naj bi jih varno spravili spodaj pod avtobus. Nihce me ne uposteva, le rezijo se in okrog mene se nabira gruca fantov, ki me ogovarjajo, ter hecajo. Avtobus odpelje dalje in jaz hitro skocim nanj. Z Evo se le spogledujeva in prav nic ne moreva storiti. Ce so ruzaki res dol, bova lahko preverili kasneje, zdaj morava le misliti pozitivno, da so res spodaj. Cez cas bus ustavi, da pobere se druge potnike in jaz zopet izkoristim situacijo, ter prosim, ce mi lahko odprejo spodaj, da vzamem nekaj iz ruzaka. No in tokrat po nekaj izogibanjih, se me fant usmili, ter mi odpre spodaj. Ko zagledam najina ruzaka se odahnem uf…se so tu ha ha nekaj vzamem, da le prikrijem mojo laz ter veselo nazaj na poskakujoci avtubus

Po skoraj 12 urah smo prispeli v Arusho. Kaoticno mesto, ter ze ob prvem stiku s tlemi, naju obda mnozica moskih, ki nama ponujajo poceni prenocisce, safarije itd. Tezko se jih je znebiti in ker sva zelo zelo utrujeni od tako dolge voznje, stopiva z dvema moskima do prvega hostla. Placava v naprej ter se butneva v posteljo, ter zaspiva kot top. Zbudi naju neko ropotanje po najinih vratih ter vpitje muzungu…zakar se prav nic ne zmeniva, zdaj sva tega ze vajeni, da sva v srediscu pozornosti. Zjutraj se zbudiva v novo jutro, pocasi razpakirava, se stusirava ter splanirava dan…in ko ze stopiva proti vratom, da odideva Eva opazi, da ni njenega fotoaparata! Caki mal, sigurno si ga kam dala, nekje mora bit!? Nihce ni bil v sobi, saj so bila vrata zaklenjena! Ocitno je nekdo ukradel kamero skozi okno. Ceprav so bile na njemu resetke, nisva mogli zapreti steklenega dela, ker so bile pokvarjene varnostne kljukice. Nekdo je bil zelo iznajdljiv, da je stegnil roko ali pa s palico k sebi potegnil kamero, ki je bila v torbici. Eva se nekaj spomni, da se je ponoci zbudila in da so njene hlace padle iz stola, ceprav so bile oddaljene od okna. To je bila potrditev, da je res nekdo saril po najini sobi s palico!!! Groza! Takoj to poveva gospodicni na recepciji, ki pa se nama samo smeji in rece bye bye!!! Ej ti, takole pa se ne bos obnasala do naju, bova pa poklicali policijo. Spakirava ter se odpraviva v drugi hotel, ter nato direktno na policijo. Prijaviva krajo in predno je Eva vse razlozila, ter da je gospod policaj vse zabelezil je trajalo in trajalo…v nedogled je spraseval ena in ista vprasanja. In tako sva nasljednjih stiri dni preziveli na policiji, odloceni, da dobiva nazaj Evin fotoaparat. V tistem trenutku sva jo zeleli nazaj in bili pripravljeni storiti prav vse. Tudi to, da sva sli s policijo na avtobusno postajo poiskat tista dva cloveka, ki sta naju peljala do tega hotela, saj sta onedva vedela tocno kje sva in v kateri sobi spiva. Moznost je bila velika, da sta bila ona ali pa da sta tja poslala koga drugega. Bilo je kot v filmu, midve se sprehajava po busni postaji in cakava, da naju ta dva opazita, policija pa stoji v zasedi oz. se sprehaja med ljudmi v civilni obleki. Ze po nekaj minutah pristopi eden od teh dveh in policija ga prime. Vsa busna je gledala in fant ni bil do naju prav nic prijazen. Bil je zelo jezen in je zagrozil, da se nama ne pise dobro! Hm hm…v tem trenutku bi najraje zavrtela cas nazaj in bi kupila Evi novo kamero, ter pozabila na staro. Toda postopek je v teku in zdaj morava iti s tokom naprej. Postopek so zelo zavlacevali in sva po eni strani imeli res sreco, da sva na policijski postaji srecali nemskega turista, ki je bil ponoci, ko se je peljal s taksijem iz Arushe do Moshija, okraden in pretepen, ter vrzen ven iz avta. Zjutraj ga je najdel lokalni moz, ter ga pripeljal na policijsko postajo. Tam je revez lezal celo noc, cisto brez vsega. Ker ni imel nicesar sva mu dali 20.000 Tsh, da si kupi busno karto za Dar Es Salam, kjer ima prijatelje. Gospod je bil vcasih policaj v Juzni Afriki, tako da je imel tu veze in je pospesil najin postopek. Oh, kaksna norija! Ceprav so ujeli osumljene bo postopek sigurno trajal se v nedogled. In verjetno morava kar pozabiti na Evin fotoaparat in vse najine dragocene fotke!

Arushe imava zadosti, zato se odpraviva proti Moshiju, da Simona koncno vidi mogocni Kilimanjaro, o katerem sem sanjala ze dolgo dolgo… zaradi njega je bila pot iz Ruande usmerjena v to smer in ne direktno proti Dar Es Salamu. Toda prvi teden je beli Kilimanjaro zakrivala meglica in jaz nisem hotela naprej dokler ga ne vidim ha ha ha No ni cisto res, malce ze, toda drugi razlog je ta, da sva spoznali prijazno gospo v zrelih letih iz Caroline, USA, ki je iskala se nekaj turistov, da se ji pridruzijo na safariju. Predstavila nama je John-a, direktorja turisticne agencije, s katerim smo sklenili dober biznis. Na safari gremo lahko zastonj, ce poiscemo se 10 turistov za safari. OK, no problem, in tako tri dni iscemo muzunge po ulicah Moshija. Ah ja s prva prav zabavno, toda kasneje zelo naporno. Johanna, John in jaz smo bili prav zabavni, ko smo tekali po ulicah in vlagali vso energijo v prepricevanje ljudi, da se nam pridruzijo na cudovitem, nepozabnem safariju.. ha ha :)In uspeli smo, nasli smo ljudi in tako nas je bilo sedem punc, ki smo odsle na tri dnevni safari. Toda, ker smo nasle le 4 ljudi, smo morale vseeno placati 150USD za tri dni, kar je seveda se vedno super cena. Dobimo velik udobni jeep, prostoren, z udobnimi sedezi, ter s simpaticnim voznikom, ki smo ga klicali CP. Viiii in smo sli najprej v nacionalni park Tarangire, kjer smo videli veliko koncentracijo raznolikih zivali. Najvec slonov, ter tropov impal, ziraf, zeber itd.. bilo je noro, narava je bila tako lepa in moj duh je zopet zazivel, to je moja Afrika…drugi dan smo se odpravili v krater, pred mnogimi leti ze ugaslega vulkana, Ngorogoro. In to, kar sem dozivela ta dan, je neopisno z besedami, ce sem ze prej rekla, da je bilo lepo, cudovito, kaj naj recem za to, tu je bilo magicno, pravljicno,..rekla sem, da so tu nebesa in da zdaj ne rabim vec umreti in drugi so se smejali…rumene in vijolicne rozice, ki cvetijo ravno v tem casu so obarvale pokrajino, zivali so bile tako mirne in se sploh niso dale motiti.. Vedela sem, da bo lepo, toda tako lepo pa spet ne ha ha ha Tu bi lahko ostala in ostala, ter opazovala pokrajino ter zivali. Motili bi me le safari jeepi, ki bi s svojim motorjem plasili mojega duha. Tretji dan smo odsli v nacionalni park Lake Manyara, kjer smo bili le kratke stiri ure, saj smo morali nazaj proti Mosiju, kar nam je vzelo se dodatnih stiri ure. Tale tri dnevni safari mi bo ostal v vecnem spominu in zelim si, da se se vrnem nazaj in ne samo enkrat, nestetokrat ze razmiljam, da bi sla delat licenco za safari voznika ha ha in nato z velikim veseljem povabim vse vas (in seveda se bomo pomenili o razumni ceni), ter vam  pokazem nebesa na zemlji.

Kar zacnite sparat za pot v Afriko, ne bo vam zal, ce se mi naslednjic pridruzite na mojem safariju

Uzivajte zivljenje in radi se imejte.

Vasa Simona

Through many months or better years of suffering and asking myself why am I a little bit different from my people at home, why can’t I just get a proper job with good salary, to find myself a good man to have family with and just settle down at my 30’s, I thank god or better myself, I woke up from my sleep! All I want is to just LIVE my life as best as I can and follow my heart no matter what other people say. My own father told me that I am crazy to leave my job and go on this trip. And I understand completely why you said this to me back then. But why should I force myself to fit in, if this life is not good for me, if I am not happy and feel dead by everyday routine. I had a feeling that there is so much more to life than this. I am happy that I came to senses that I should start to live my own life and not a life of others. Better late than never. If everybody else is doing it, why should I do it…so I decided to quit my job, leave my family, friends and my boyfriend back at home…for what?..to go and explore continent Africa and of course myself, what are my limits, what am I capable of outside this comfort zone I was living in my whole life…it was some kind of test for me if I am strong enough to face the reality here and grow on my own, without help of others in an unknown world, where you don’t even know what to expect. As you all know Africa is the toughest continent to travel, you all heard for the poverty, diseases, people dying on every corner, bad roads, bad medicine support, bad supply of water, bad, bad, bad…why?….ask wazungus (white people)..they should know for the best!..nobody is talking about beautiful and pure and unpolluted sides of Africa…I am telling u, here is heaven…of course people were held down for centuries, they need to wake up from their sleep and finally find out that they are also smart and very capable of doing whatever they feel to do..and they were not born just to be slaved by white people…African people are actually very smart, but they don’t believe in themselves…who will open their eyes?

After my decision to go to Africa for a year with my great friend Matej, we started to plan the whole journey…from Slovenia all the way to Cape Town, South Africa…by foot, by bus, by train…go with a flow…unfortunatelly or now maybe better, fortunatelly, Matej gave up on me in December, he decided not to go, so I was on my own…I already had a flight ticket on 12^th of January…what to do now?…to go alone??…yes, there is no other option…I knew I can travel on my own, but as I had many fears about going alone to Africa, I felt somehow scared…Gasper, u should know exactly how I felt, u were there for me in that exact moment when everything collapsed …and by coincidence or maybe not really coincidence, life paths of me and Simona crossed in the best moment possible…we were thinking about the same thing…first separately, then life brought us together…life gifted me with the best travel partner possible, Simona…and not just a best travel partner, but also a best friend….I met her in the beginning of December and we clicked at the first meeting….so many common ideas, how to travel, what to do, where to go…we saw each other just few times before I left in January (she has joined me later in March) and we both dig in the work that needed to be done…you do this, I do that..the sponsors, webpage, collect all the infos, get vaccined, buy things needed and try not to exaggerate, hahahaa…we had just a little time…then life separated us…..of course, I needed to overcome my fear of travelling alone…and why not in the toughest continent of all…

In January 2009, I left by myself to Nairobi, Kenya, where I was on my own for two months..many, many things have happened, many lessons I’ve learned…this time was very challenging for me….how to trust people, how not to trust people, how not to fear the weird, dangerous situation, how not to fear different kinds of people…life thought me many things…how to just let it go…and be strong inside myself and just feel safe wherever I go, whoever I meet….no problems, hakuna matata!, hahahaa….and in time I felt that my true inner Eva is starting to come out…my true colours are getting brighter and warmer with every day spent in this far off continent…I felt that I can be self-sufficient and so free…weird feeling in a world so unknown to me before…I felt that I am completely alone on this world (a good feeling, not a lonely one!)…of course I have a great family at home, they really love me and help me on my way, thank u guys so much!!!…of course I belong to them, but still, I don’t belong to noone (mom, you tought me that, right? :)…I was born and will die alone..and in the midtime, let’s have as much fun as possible!!! That’s the life worth living for…and try not to complicate it too much, coz in it’s core life is very beautiful and very simple.

I went to Africa to grow, that’s why I attracted all the toughest and difficult things that happened to me along the way (and still continuing)…crazy life in Nairobi, working in a slum, losing a lot of money, twice got robbed…and after all this I still enjoyed it every single step…life, bring me some more…I am getting stronger and stronger…was becoming fearless…no one could hurt me…after being robbed, after working in the slum, seeing the life of those innocent kids there, after Barbara died, I was so angry, so pissed off and so powerful at the same time…if there was anyone that would just touch me, just wanted to hurt me, I could beat him up like hell….I have never experienced myself in such a way…I did shock myself!…who am I becoming??…

And after all these Nairobi stories, my angel from Slovenia arrived, Simona….when I met her on Nairobi airport it felt like we know each other for ages, but at the same time we were strangers, planning to travel for half a year together…through thick and thin…will we succeed? My African movie and her movie from home, did not match at the beginning…we were talking already about separation…I trusted people here…maybe too willing to explore, to dig, to see whats behind, to walk on the edge…Simona a little more careful, cautious…she has experienced many things in life, travelled alone in New Zealand and Australia, she knows for sure she doesn’t need to experience everything that life brings her…..she has a limit, healthy one…and me, I can go with a flow….and sometimes very far….and by the end I ask myself how did it happen that I even got there??..hahahhaa…I listen to my heart, to my instinct, inner voice, or whatever u call it….and this feelings can drag me far…as if I need to see and experience what’s on the other side…because of this reason I have my biggest gift right here in front of me (I am sorry if I sometimes take you for granted…so sorry..), a girl who takes care of me, loves me, stops me when necessary, takes me as I am and I can say, almost completely understands me…without fear to be who I really am ..we are quite alike..and we are growing so much every day …

Of course there are problems, u can imagine if u live with someone 24/7, but nothing that we could not talk through…we are both aware that we are independent souls, that we can do whatever we want in every moment, if she feels for instance like going first to Sudan, then Gana and later to explore India (…dont u dare by yourself!, hahahaa), she can go, I cannot attach her to myself…I love her and this is the reason why I can give her wings to fly…and support her in whatever she feels is good for her or she needs to experience…never want to limit anyone because of egoistic way of thinking - ‘uuu, I would feel so alone, she better stays here with me’….no!, this is not the way…every person has it’s own way in this world, we should not attach to each other as we do, to try and posses people close to us, for our life to depend on others…of course we are all there to help, to love each other, but we should allow ourselves to be who we are and do what we need to do…

Simona came into my life so fast and time spent with her on such a journey connected us a lot…every day we are facing ourselves and each other…in such intense travel all the good and bad things come out…so we have to be patient and understanding with each other…we grow together as a mirror to each other…we learned to talk everything through…if there are things that bother us, we say it….as friends it’s our duty to tell each other what is good, what is bad….if we love a friend, we should help him or her to grow, to become better, even if it hurts…coz this is the best thing someone can do for u…who better than your best friend…it hurts, but u’re safe…and then u overcome your weakness and become much better, wiser….that’s how we are doing it…we are overcoming our egoistic point of view, our jealousy, fear, our mind barriers and limitations that we integrated through our whole life…we want to overcome every bad thing installed inside of us, that is limiting us from living a happy life…. why should I fear, why should I feel jealous?…if there are ways to deal with this, why not just clean all this mess and feel fucking great and free!!!! ..u all know the song FREE YOUR MIND, AND THE REST WILL FOLLOW

Me and Simona are growing together each day…still learning from each other, it is never ending journey…how good can u really know a person after a lifetime?..can u?…I think that we think we know our friends and parents so much,….but try and put them in different kinds of situations, and we will see …so many unexplored things behind

It is sometimes scary coz Simona and me are really in tune…like husband and wife, hahaha…when we do something, lets say we cook, we don’t need to say whats there to be done…coz we just do it spontaneously….I do this, she does that…no needed words, no arguments why this and not that…and this is showing also in other situations…and the thing I love the most is when we have fun together..when we try to make fun of people here in Africa..not in a rude way, we just make them to think properly…and we can be sooooo high and laugh soooo much, we are just talking one after another and provoking people, sometimes we play a scene in the restaurant and we can eat for free…u can see what can be done with a pure and happy spirit..,,we don’t want to harm anyone…we are just being ourselves in that exact moment!..and these moments are really precious, if I could film everything that we do, we could sell these movies…(actually we are trying to get glasses with installed camera from china :))…of course there are also times when we are fed up with life here, when we get into problems or we feel sick and we need to talk, we need to cry…to do whatever to overcome and feel better…we support each other on every step…and it is very meaningful to me to see how this stranger that came into my life not so long ago, loves me and takes care of me so much…I love u Simona, cannot imagine this journey without u…it is the best journey ever!!!

And I am so thankful for you to be by my side, that we found each other, that u trusted me that I could be the right person to travel with and that u believed in our dreams..that we can really do it!…it brings tears to my eyes just to think how far we’ve already gone…I have a feeling that I know you for ages…and might be true, hahaha..we must have shared our past lives somewhere in Brazil or North America among Indians or maybe Vietnamese soldiers, hahahahha..

Life just brought me what I needed most….you. I want to be in support to you for all my life, to help u, to fly with u, married or not, with kids, adopted ones or without, with good vibes along the way and share the happiness forever, close to each other or separate.

Thank you for everything that already was, for everything we are facing now and everything that will come along the way.

I bow to you. Thank you.

Eva

YOU MUST BE ALWAYS GENTLE AND KINDLY, REASONABLE AND ACCOMODATING, LEAVING TO OTHERS THE SAME FULL LIBERTY WHICH YOU NEED FOR YOURSELF

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Clovek se rodi z razlogom, z rojstvom prinese na svet svoje poslanstvo. Vsak nosi to v sebi, nekdo globoko skrito v svoji podzavesti, drugi plitvo pod povrsjem. Vse pa le caka, da odkrijemo, prepoznamo in naredimo ter sledimo temu kar je v nas.

Verjamem, da mi zivljenje na pot prinasa ljudi, ki jih potrebujem, da se ucim, da rastem, da delim in da jih osrecujem ter jim prikazem novi pogled na svet. Vsak mi prinasa nekaj in vsakemu nekaj podarim. Zato vem, da je na mojo pot stopila Eva s prav posebnim razlogom. Jaz pravim vse je z razlogom, vse kar se zgodi, naredi, ima nek namen, ki nam prinasa sporocilo, znamenje, navodilo, ucenje, da spregledamo, da vidimo stvari se z druge strani.  Eva je poseben namen. Sanjala sem o Afriki, mislila nanjo na vsakem koraku, dobivala znamenja, sporocila, da naj se odpravim v njeno blizino. Toda v meni je bila ovira, ki sem si jo sama ustvarila. Ovira glede financnih sredstev, strah pred potovanjem v to dezelo, saj so stereotipi o Afriki strasljivi. Druzba jo prepozna kot kontinet velikih nevarnosti! Ker nisem mogla preko teh ovir mi zivljenje prinese Evo, da s  pomocjo nje premagam vse strahove, ki me zadrzujejo doma, da si ne upam v afrisko blizino. Eva se je priblizevala pocasi, toda z mislimi in mojo neizmerno zeljo sem jo podzavestno priklicala v moje zivljenje. Nato lahko recem, prisla je kot strela z jasnega, sredi decembrskega dne, mi je pisala mail, da potuje v Afriko, ter prosila za kaksen nasvet kako je ce potuje zenska sama po tem kontinentu. Hm, teh informacij iz lastnih izkusenj nimam, je pa res, da si mocno zelim tja in ce je ok, bi se ji pridruzila.

In tako se zacne najino potovanje, najina skupna pot, duhovna rast, spoznavanje sebe ter druga drugo. Ne bi mogla dobiti boljse osebe za to potovanje kot Evo. Ona je odsev mene, mi je kot ogledalo s pomocjo katerega prepoznavam svoje slabe in dobre lastnosti. Zelo sem vesela, da se obedve zavedava tega, da priznava svoje slabe lastnosti, svoje vzorce, ki sva jih vsaka prinesli iz svojega druzinskega ali druzbenega okolja. Potovanje ti odpre nova obzorja, kot prvo si samostojen, neodvisen od drugih, dalec stran od svojega okolja, tu si sam s sabo. Prerezes vse energijske vezi, ki te vezejo na prejsnje zivljenje, spoznavas sebe in prepoznavas vedenjske vzorce, ki sploh niso tvoji. Tocno ves kdo hoces bit oz. kdo bi moral bit ze zdavnaj. Ko prepoznavas vse to zna vcasih bit zelo bolece. Najtezje je priznati svoje napake, svoje napacano dejanje, lazje je obsoditi drugega. Tudi midve z Evo sva bitja, ki cutiva in greva preko vsega tega.

Na zacetku sem cutila, da je Eva zelo zaprta, zelo oddaljena od mene. Zato sem se zelo trudila, da ji ustrezem in tako sem pozabila name, na moje zelje in obcutke, zelela sem le, da se mi pribliza, da mi zaupa, da deliva vse misli in obcutke skupaj. Ko sem prvic zbolela v Ugandi, sem zacutila, da mi je blizje. Kako hitro je odreagirala, me mocno prijela za roko in mi dala upanja, da bo vse vredu. Skrbela je zame in se zacela pogovarjati tudi o globljih stvareh. Bolezen je bila razlog! Pot sva nato nadaljevali in bila sem zelo vesela, da sem zbolela in s tem pridobila Evo. Ja tako pac je, z mislimi sem priklicala dogodek, da naju je vsaj malce zblizal. Toda to ni bilo zadosti!

V Kigaliju sva spoznali cloveka, ki naju je naucil veliko lekcij. Clovek se mi je zdel na prvi trenutek razdvojen, v njem sem videla dva obraza. Eden je prijazen, miren, mil, potrpezljiv, vesel, drugi cisto nasprotje, neprijazen, nemiren, ukazljiv, nepotrpezljiv, zalosten, jezen itd… uciti naju je hotel o cloveskih slabostih kar naju je zelo pritegnilo. Eva ga je pozorno poslusala, jaz sem ga jemala z rezervo. Eva se mu je cisto odprla, kar me je zmotilo. Nisem vedela, zakaj se do drugih lahko prej odpre, kot pa do mene? Kaj pocnem takega, kaj jo moti, kaj naj se naredim, da bo zaupala tudi meni!? Z vsemi takimi vprasanji sem se mucila, ter jih zadrzevala v sebi in s tem povzrocala blokado pretoka energije. Ko sva zapustili Kigali, sva se nekako zaceli pogovarjati o vsemu kar se dogaja, zakaj nama prihajajo na pot take osebe, ali jih res potrebujeva in kaj naju ucijo. Kaj kmalu sva spregledali in uvideli, da je res vse z razlogom. Ta clovek naju je zbudil, dal dobro lekcijo. Z Evo sva se iskreno pogovorili o vsem kar naju muci, tisci v srcu, kaj ovira pretok energije, da nisva na poti katero sva si zadali, da ne greva najinemu cilju naproti. Uuuu tole je bilo tezko, besede, ki so bolele, toda zakaj? Nisva se prepirali ali govorili z visjim tonom glasu, bili sva umirjeni le izrekali sva besede in stavke, ki so tiscali v prsih. Eva mi je priznala, da je vcasih ljubosumna name, ker znam dobro napisati clanek itd… Jaz sem ji priznala, da sem tudi ljubosumna, ce fotkne kako dobro fotko. In sva se smejali kot dva otroka. Takoj ko sva priznali sva cutili olajsanje v prsih in zacutili, da energija zopet tece. Obljubili sva si, da si bova druga drugi drzali ogledalo in si vedno povedali vse. Zeliva preseci vse okvire, prepoznati vse vedenjske vzorce in jih zavestno odpraviti. Zeliva se nauciti brezpogojne ljubezni, ljubezni dajanja, kjer ni prostora za ljubosumje, jezo, zahrbtnost, nevoscljivost… ko obcutim, da me nekaj zmoti na Evi, takoj pogledam v sebe, predelam zakaj me to moti, je mogoce vzrok v meni in ne na njej…in nato predebatiram se z njo.

V tem casu sva prepoznali in predelali veliko vzorcev, ki jih ne zeliva, da so del naju. Z vsakim dnem rasteva in spoznavava, da je lahko zivljenje tako zelo cudovito, brez nepotrebnih neumnih cloveskih izpadov. Vsak sam je odgovoren za svoja dejanja, vsak sam si ustvari dan taksnega kot si zeli in priklice situacije, ki jih zeli izkusiti. Odkritost in razumevanje sta kljuc do osvoboditve nasih negativnih vzorcev. Zato prisluhnimo drug drugemu, saj zivljenje je prekratko, da bi ziveli v temi in le zase.

Kam pelje to potovanje ali ga bova se nadaljevali skupaj, bova ostali eno ali pac bo nekdo drug posegel med naju? To je odvisno od vsake posebaj! Kateri obcutek in glas je pravi, slediti glasu Eve ali glasu Simone? Se pravi se vedno sva dve osebi, z razlicnimi obcutij in cutili. Si res tako mocno zeliva dokancati najino zastavljeno pot, je res to del najinega poslanstva ali je to le odriv za zacetek nove poti, poti brezpogojne ljubezni in dajanja? Ej moja Evci, ti ne ves kako te imam rada, tako zelo, brezpogojno, da ti pustim oditi svojo pot, te pustiti za seboj, ce si prepricana, da si nasla notranjo sreco, ki nikoli ne bo ugasnila. Ceprav si mocno zelim, da bi bila z menoj, da bi se vedno delila te trenutke srece z menoj, ker nevem s kom jih bom, ce ne s teboj!

Vsak je sam gospodar svojih misli in dejanj.

Objem bozanske svetlobe

Simona

This country full of hills stretching in all directions is with its 26.000 km² a little bigger than Slovenia. In the early morning when we were driving in a matatu (van) from Uganda towards the border with Rwanda, we were enjoying the stunning scenery…endless mountains, hills, cultivated in terraces, peaks of volcanoes - they make natural frontier between Uganda, Rwanda and D.R. Congo with jungle forest where mountain gorillas live…so you can track them from Ugandan or Rwandan side..

I could drive through such a wonderful places for ages with music in my ears, but we came to Kisoro, a place before the border, where we had to find boda boda (motorbike) who will take us to the border. We just stepped out of matatu when a crowd of men were pulling us to go to the border with them…it can be quite frustrating when you have a heavy backpack, smaller one and at the same time have to fight and bargain, hahaha..but it is all worth it!…Simona already sat on the motorbike of one of the guys, and I was checking where can I put my backpack…in front as my driver told me so that he would hold it or rather on my shoulders which would be quite tricky for me to drive with at the back….we succeed it to have it in front till the gas station…where Simona and her driver already waited for us…as we couldn’t drive with my backpack at the front, I putted it on my back and sat behind my guy….Simona already left with her driver …don’t know where…it slipped my mind…’what if I don’t see her again, what if this guy will just drive her someplace else and I dont see her no more’…..but with such an attitude you cannot go far during such trip… you learn to calm yourself down, to be at peace and BELIEVE and have FAITH that everything will be just fine :)….and it was…we were driving few bends behind simona and her guy through a bumpy country road with farmers, fields….regarding to the circumstances VERY FAST (heavy backpack on my shoulders, I had to properly hug my biker not to fall off, hahaa….bunch of holes and people on that narrow road).. up and down, holding tight to succeed to get to the border…hahaha..what an adrenaline experience!..      uuff..after 30 minutes or so we got to the border…first we went to the toilet..first Simona, then me…when was my turn there was a guy who was working in an office at the border peeping from the top of the toilet beside….i don’t know why I looked up above the ceiling when I was peeing, but I did…and there was a face of that guy staring at me….bloody bastard!..i was shocked and started to shout at him! (not that he would see anything new..) ..and this guy without any shame waited in that toilet till I left..then when I was on appropriate distance, he left the place and went back to his office…Simona was just laughing at me, hahaha….but all these crazy moments make us laugh a  lot …we wish we could explain everything that comes along our way, but there is so many stories already, we should write a book…and maybe, who knows, really might happen….

On the border of Rwanda we got a 14 day visa and as we were trying to get a matatu to take us to Ruhengeri, a place close to the volcanoes, it started to rain like crazy. Quickly we changed some money to Rwandan franks and sat in the matatu…first thing..those guys are driving on the right side just like at home..jujuuuu!!…second thing…roads are all so nice, asphalted….third observation…people speak French (also English and Kinyarwanda)….but when I talked to people they barely understood my English, huh, weird…before the official language was just French, nowadays also English…fourth observation: this driver IS DRIVING TOO FAST!!!!…the road was slippery, a matatu full of people and that man in front driving without a care. He left behind quite an amount of vehicles…and still doing it…he was trying to pass by another matatu…we were already beside it, but in front a bend..how can he see that there is noone coming in front , does he have a third eye or what??…of course not…why? Because there was another matatu coming in front of us…panic!…so there were three matatus about to crash…I already saw an image in my head of many people dead when I heard my own SCREAM!..I looked at Simona, she was calmed down, she just stared in front of her, begging angels to help us…driver first wanted to drive on the left to the field..then he changed his mind and stepped on a pedal for speed and when I already saw myself crashed in the van in front, the driver somehow slipped and found a way out in that little space that has been left to avoid the tragedy…it all happened in few seconds….then right after the driver stopped the van..and people started to shout and yelled at him…I finally realized what could of happen..I started to shiver, my heart went crazy, I was out of my own body, shocked, close to tears…life of so many people could have end because of some crazy and ignorant driver …I was speechless….truly not a good day to die…not in such a way…

In Ruhengeri we could watch the high Virunga volcanoes from below….beautiful to see when the Sun goes down…this world is just too beautiful for my heart to bear…The next day we decided to see great lake Kivu, close to D.R.Congo border. From far it looks like the ocean, its huge…and this is a place where Rwandese go to swim as the country doesn’t lie beside any ocean…Gisenyi, a town by lake Kivu is just few metres away from Congolese Goma, where there is still a war zone….they are fighting for natural wealth…what a stupidity….becouse of some rocks people are dying…(u can check the Blood Diamond to see the craziness of mankind)  …how can a human race be so blind, all just craving for money….which is just a bloody paper!!!!!!…what happened with us in all this time..we surely lost our heart, our core along the way…we lost whats good in us, we got confused about our priorities…we are all running through life saying we don’t have time to do things which we love to do, to see people which we really care for…because of what??….money… we need to work 24/7 to get enough money to pay our bills, go on holidays, buy new car, pay a loan for our house….and by the end of our life…was this running through life worth for?…what did we really do with our life except for earning money and spend it…and because of that we put aside everything else……what a miserable thought…let us not to have these sad thoughts when it comes a final day of our life…

After few days we decided to go to the capital city of Rwanda, Kigali, a very sophisticated, safe and European city, very developed, with supermarkets and caffeterias (they have the best coffe in the world!!!!!!!!), everything is in order…people are obeying the laws…we felt like we are not in Africa anymore..definitelly an Europen island in the heart of Africa… here is important again how u look like, how u present yourself…it seems like they are trying too much to look like Europeans, to be very developed in the eyes of foreigners..but this is just the first feeling, that everything is in order…below the surface is a horrible story…this country has been through such a disaster not so much time ago..in 1994 they have been through the one of most cruel genocides in history…because of ethnic conflict between tribes Hutu (majority) and Tutsi (minority) almost 1 million of people (from Tutsi tribe) were killed in 3 months…3 millions of people left the country…that’s why nowadays u can meet a lot of Rwandans in Uganda, Tanzania, Kenya, D.R.Congo, many also in Europe and United States….Why did it all start? The story says that when the Belgian colonists came to this part of Africa, they started to separate people regarding to their tribal roots…first they preferred Tutsi tribe over Hutu tribe back in time of 1^st World War….later on things has changed many times…but the gap between the tribes who before lived side by side in peace, became bigger and bigger…it all culminated till 1994 when this horrible massacre occurred…people were shooting, slaughtering, raping, murdering THEIR OWN people in such a horrific way that the most corrupted mind cannot think about such things…they were throwing little kids against the wall until they were dead…they cut opened pregnant women on the altar of the church and pulled out the unborn baby and killed also him/her…people watching other people dying..not few, thousands of rapings, slaughtering, shooting they’ve seen with their own eyes and waited for their own death….it makes me feel vomiting when I write this, out of pain….these people were forced to kill their own relatives, sons, daughters, mothers, brothers, uncles grandparents…first see the death of your people, then is your turn…all that is left of this brutal massacre are huge graves with thousands of dead bodies….it is breath taking and u cannot feel but sick when u see that all there is left are the huge shelves of sculls, bones, remainings of people who died in agony…in the places of huge massacres where thousands of people died u can see clothes, shoes full of blood hanging there, blood stains  on the walls and roofs…on our way there we were quite relaxed and were laughing in the car….then we saw what kind of tragedy this country has been through we became silent….very silent……human brains can hardly understand that this has really occurred ..that people are capable to do such things to each other…nowadays killers are walking through the streets of Rwanda, smiling when shaking your hand…in silent way they are still killing the survivals…they come during the night and do it….nobody knows…this is another reality of Rwanda now…although everything looks very nice, there is still a lot of angry, sad people who lost everything in their life and try to survive in their home country..some want to revenge, some pray to God to live a normal life, some of them want to leave the country, to have a hope for a completely new life…many of them need psychical support because the things they’ve seen were just too much for their heart to bear…and the government??…they help the survivals with putting them in governmental homes…but for other help they must find it by themselves….president Paul Kagame is trying very hard to put the past behind and to build a society where everybody will be equal, no more differing to Hutus and Tutsis, they should all be Rwandans…that’s a good way to go…

We met a guy who experienced a genocide in a such a horrible way..he saw how almost 7000 people have died in front of his eyes including his mother, brothers and sister…he was hiding in a pool of blood and dead bodies to survive…more about that u can soon read on OUR WORK: link.

When we came to Kigali we were trying to find a place to stay…as we stopped using a Lonely Planet and we just go with a flow, there was a kind woman who took us to hostel in the centre which is owned by church, St. Paul Church…the best place we could get…it is located on such a great location…with a huge garden in between rooms, with a stunning view on lower part of Kigali and a sound of drums and singing when they were practicing or having Sunday mass…and this was a place where we met very interesting Chinese guy, who is very spiritual, he was excercising every morning on the loan, meditating and doing exercises for body and mind…when we started to talk to him the first morning in our new home, we kinda a lost track of time…there was so many things to talk about with this chinese who went on a non-returning journey around the world to complete his mission…the next thing we did was to have lunch together where we talked and laughed some more…and from that day we were inseparable…a crazy triangle, hahaha…we were living in the same place..we were together almost all days during our stay in Kigali, sharing everything..we were like one big happy family…and we went out together many evenings…my Rwandese friend who lives in Kenya gave me a number of his cousin Kaze, a lawyer ..and me and Simona met also a coach of Rwandese national team, Claude, which I spend time with already in Kenya…many evenings we went out also with Kaze and Claude, they are just awesome, we love them so much….they were really nice to us and they became as brothers to us…. we had a fantastic time!!!!…

The three musqueteers were entertaining the whole Kigali, hahaha…wherever we went we made people laugh, we joked around, we were really high..hahaa..not on weed or any other substance, but just by living a full life in that moment, just being ourselves, without limitations!….like we were kids again…one afternoon we went to eat lunch in a restaurant…and what was first really funny was that we got drinks on the table that we didn’t even order..but we were just laughing, drinking..who will pay?..we don’t know, hahaha….then we ate our lunch…and it was time for desert - slices of pineapple…per one meal u get one dessert…we got about 5 or 6 portions of it…we just kept ordering it..we all love pineapple….and by the end of lunch when the waiter came with a bill, we spontaneously started to act as we don’t have any money to pay with…me and Simona were blaming Chinese guy that he invited us out to eat and now he is without any money…what kind of man would do that…and he was saying the same for us…we asked the waiter if we can go and wash the dishes, that we can also work there as waiters for few days…we wanted for him just to tell us how can we pay this lunch back…first he was surprised, then he started to laugh and quickly there were all the waiters from that restaurants talking to us, laughing.. hahahaa…Simona was fortunately filming all that was going on and when it came to that that the waiter wanted Simona to be his happy wife, she passed me the camera and a comedy went on…with one kiss we have free lunch, hahaha….the waitress who was standing beside our waiter said to him laughing that he should kiss simona, otherwise she will do it, hahaha….so they kissed ech other very innocently…and by that kiss they were married….which meant that me and Chinese were free to go, hahaha….simona stayed there happily married and me and a Chinese friend left the restaurant laughing, hahaha…we were walking to our St. Paul hostel when it started to rain…we didn’t bother, we were so happy, when simona passed us by on a motorbike, laughing to tears…she got a free ride back home, she just explained to that guy that her friends left her with no money…hahaha…and the guy just said: ‘no problem! Jump on the bike!’….we were so high with energy that we could move mountains, we just bewitched everyone around us…a great day to remember!!!…

After 14 very intense and great days in Kigali, we had to leave…when we came to the border we saw that we almost missed our date of visa expiry..hahah.before we didn’t even check it….again it was very hard to leave people that we had such great time with and learned a lot from each other…it is interesting how people come in our hearts in such a short time…and as me and Simona are becoming more synchronized with each other, we attract more and more people who are quite similar to us in the way of thinking, with every step made along our journey better things are happening to us and we attract better and better people…and btw, our bacterial bronchitis was finally healed in St. Kigali

Something more on our spiritual growth you can read soon on this same page

Till then….Smile every day!…This life is too beautiful and too short to waste it!

With love,

Eva

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RUANDA

The Land of a thousand hills, dezela tisocih hribov, ki se razprostirajo od severa do juga in segajo vse cez sosednjo drzavo Burundi. Na severnem delu v visavo strlijo trije vulkani, in kjer je zopet mozno videti mogocne gorske Gorile. S svojo majhnostjo je skoraj primerljiva s Slovenijo, saj v teh 26.000 kvadratnih metrih obsega vso raznoliko naravo. Dostopa do morja nima, toda na zahodnem delu jo obdaja cudovito jezero Kivu, ki je pravtako privlacno za kopanje in polezavanje na plazi. Ze prva razlika, ki jo je videti ob vstopu v drzavo je voznja na desni strani ceste, za  naju z Evo bolj obicajno kot prej, toda zopet je potrebno preklopiti v glavi, pazi na desno nato levo itd. Uradni jezik je anglescina in Kinyaruanda, se ne dolgo nazaj je bil uradni jezik francoscina, zato se vedno vecina govori le-tega in je vcasih sporazumevanje v anglescini tezje. Ceste so v primerjavi s prejsnjimi drzavami zelo dobre, vecina je asfaltiranih. V mestih vlada red in tudi boda boda (motorcki), ki vozijo po mestu so oznaceni, vsak s svojo stevilko in celado.

Tako cudovita drzava, s prijaznimi ljudmi pa ima za sabo pravi pekel! Genocid, ki se je zgodil leta 1994 je za sabo pustil globoko rano in grenek priokus tej drzavi. Hutu in Tutsi, dva plemena, ki sta se med sabo dobesedno poklala. Hutu je tega leta brutalno pobilo, umorilo, zaklalo, posililo, preteplo, izmalicilo nesteto nedolznil ljudi. Grozote, ki so vidne se zdaj! Belezja, ki spominjajo na ta dogodek so grozljiva, cloveku vzamejo dih in v srcu zadajo bolecino. Lahko le strmis v kupe nalozenih kosti, lobanj in nesteto visecih oblek, v eni izmed cerkva, kjer se je zgodil kruti pokol! Kdo je zmozen tega? Clovek? In kdo je ta clovek, ki je zmozen takega pocetja, kje je zdaj, ali lahko zivi v miru? Ti ljudje, ki so zmozni tega, zdaj hodijo po ulicah mest Ruande. Ti ljudje se svodobno sprehajajo in ti zrejo v oci, prijazno stiskajo roko, ter te prisrcno pozdravljajo v Ruandi!!!! Vsi ti ljudje nosijo fasado, za katero skrivajo marsikaj, na zunaj lepi, naznotraj pa jim gori, nekaterim jeza po mascevanju, drugim srh, tretjim zalost…in zelja po lepsi prihodnosti. Je to mozno po 15 letih? Kaksnega zivljenja?

Pot iz Ugande, naju je vodila skozi cudovite gozdove, visoko na hribe od kjer sva obcudovali cudovite poglede na vulkane in vse dalec dalec tja do najmanjsih hribckov prekritih z zeleno barvo. To so slike, ki bodo ostale na zalost le v najinih glavah, saj ni bilo priloznosti za fotkanje iz avtobusa!!! Iz Kisora, se na Ugandski strani, sva nato vsaka vzeli boda boda, motorcek, na katerega so nalozili tudi najina tezka ruzaka, ter se avanturisticno podali proti Ruandski meji. Ko je moj motor potegnil naprej in kaj kmalu nisem vec videla Eve, so moji mozgani na trenutek pomislili ha ha kam jo je zdaj peljal, toda ejjjjjjj Simona, misli pozitivno J haha in voznja je bila res adrenalinska. Z malim motorckom po prasni in luknjasti cesti, veter v laseh in vsa ta cudovita pokrajina, mimo njiv in travnikov, tekajocih otrok, kricecih muzungu, vse do Ruandske meje. Voznja je trajala cca 30 minut in bila kar naporna za moje roke, ki so zraven drzale se ruzak in se mene ha ha ha

Cez mejo sva se kar sprehodili. S prva je kazalo, da bova morali za vizo zaprostiti preko racunalnika, toda kasneje se je uradnica le premislila in prbila tisto stampiljko v potni list in dala vizo za 14 dni. Sploh ni bilo problema najti prevoz naprej do prvega vecjega mesta Ruhengerija, matatu, mali busek je bil takoj prepoln in ze smo drveli kot kamikaze….viiii…po mokri in spolzki cesti, in zopet ze nevem kolikokrat recenimi ha ha ha  cudovitimi pogledi skozi okno. Vsa zmeckana, stisnjena, da se prstov na nogi nisem mogla premikat ha ha je mini bus drvel vse hitreje in hitreje…z Evo se spogledujeva in nama ni cisto nic jasno kva hudica se gre tale voznik, a misli, da smo na rejliju!!?? Pred ovinkom zacne prehitevati drugo vozilo in moje srce zacne biti vse hitreje. V mislih zacnem klicati angelcke, za pomoc, da naj ustavijo to vozilo, prosim, prosim, ne cutim se varno…toda vozilo je vstric drugega in pred nami je ovinek…groza, angelcki, zakaj mi ne pomagate!!!! V trenutku nasproti pripelje drveci avtobus, Eva zakrici, me preplaseno pogleda, jaz pa le strmim v drvece vozilo in zupam angelckom nase vozilo, da resijo situacijo v najvisje dobro. Cisto umirjena, vem, da se ne bo zgodilo prav nic, jim popolnoma zaupam. In res voznik najprej skusa zaviti na levo in nato kar naenkrat spretno zavije na desno in za las svigne mimo drvecega vozila. Busek se nato ustavi in ljudje zacnejo vpiti vse vprek, vozniki pridejo iz vozil in se derejo drug na drugega. Grrrr prav barbarsko, razbijasko, malce srahljivo….ej ej fantje pomirte se no, sej je vse ok, mi govorijo  mozgani….dejmo se no ohladit!!! Pocasi, se spokajo nazaj v svoja vozila in nadaljujemo pot, zdaj malce bolj pocasi kot prej. Uf…toda, zdaj pride za mano sok, ko se zacnejo tresti se dlake na kozi ha ha zdaj sele dojamem, kar se je zgodilo!?? Ej Evc, samo s pozitivno mislijo naprej, pred nama je se dolga pot. En globok vdih in smo ze v svojem toku…viiiii…Ruanda  prihajava…..

V Ruhengiriju sva prenocili in se drug dan nauzili prelepe okolice, s cudovitim pogledom na vulkane, ki so vabili s svojo velicino v svojo blizino. Veva, da se bova se vrnili na to pot in da bo za naju se druga priloznost, da si jih ogledava se od blizu.  Naslednji dan se odpraviva do jezera Kivu, mesta Gyseniya, ki meji na drzavo Kongo. Od tu je pogled na Gomo, kjer se vedno potekajo nemiri. Vojna za naravne rudnine, predvsem zlato! Bila je le korak od naju, toda nisva imeli neke velike zelje, da bi si jo ogledali se od blizu.

Po dveh dneh se nato vsedeva na bus do Kigalija, glavnega mesta Ruande. Tole pa je cisto presenecenje za naju. Sredisce mesta je prava evropska prestolnica. Razvito mesto, z nakupovalnimi sredisci in kavarnami z najboljso kavo na svetu mnjami J Tu ze steje videz, ljudje so lepo obleceni, zlikani, mozje s kravato, gospodicne v visokih petah, z zlatimi okraski in vabljivimi gibi ha ha Ljudje so zelo prijazni, povsod sva zelo lepo sprejeti, postrezeni in vsak bi z nama poklepetal ali izmenjal par besed.

Ker z Evo ne slediva prevec Lonely Planetu, tudi tokrat se raje kar prepustiva toku, pri iskanju prenocisca. In tako res dobiva najcenejse in najlepse prenocisce v Kigaliju, St. Paul hostl ima cudovit pogled na mesto, z lepim vrtom in prijetnim vzdusjem. Ze drugo jutro srecava zanimivega Kitajca, ki skrbno vadi jutranje vaje za duso in telo. Pogovor stece in pozabimo na cas ter ura ze kaze popoldne, ko se zavedamo, da smo klepetali cel dan, se zacnemo smejat in od takrat smo bili nerazdruzljivi. Trije musketirji nato zabavajo Kigali ha ha ha Z Evo naju odnese v cisto drugi svet in imava obcutek, kot da nisva vec v Afriki!!! Skupna tema za pogovor je bila v prvi vrsti duhovne narave in o spreminjanju sveta, sirjenju miru in ljubezni, da ne bi bilo vec vonj in trpljenja, da bi za ljudi bila zemlja nebesa…zanimive teme in debate, ki so nama z Evo dale zopet novih idej in optimizma za naprej. Saj si ves cas potovanja skusava vizualizirat in manifestirat stvari in ljudi, ter nato analizirava, kje sva ga polomili ha ha Tako tudi manifestacija glede tako potrebnega prenosnega racunalnika, s katerim bi vas lahko bolje redno obvescale itd…se izkaze, da se je tokrat res manifestirala. Kitajec nama je pripravljen kupit racunalnik!!! VAV! Oz. ga narocit iz Hong Konga… hm hm ni slaba ideja

In ko so trije musketirje skupaj imajo neverjetno energijo, da podira vse ovire, se pokaze prva potrditev, da je res tako. Ko skupaj pojemo kosilo in se nato Simonina glava spomni, da malce zaigramo, da nimamo denarja, ce lahko pomivamo posodo oz. ce lahko v zameno kaj naredimo. Vse skupaj je bilo misljeno le kot zabava in smo bili seveda pripravljeni na koncu placat, zanimal nas je le odziv ljudi. In igra se zacne, ko natakar izstavi racun ha ha hm nimamo dinarckov, lahko pomivamo, strezemo…itd…natakarji in osebje se zacnejo smejat in pokat od smeha. Mi prelagamo en na drugega, z Evo, da naju je tale Kitajec povabil, zdaj pa ne placa, midve pa nimava denarja in on obratno ha ha Smeh se siri in jaz skrbno snemam z mojo kamero. Nato se obrnem proti natakarju in recem kaj zdaj in njegov pogled seze od mojih nog do glave in nazaj aha kaj je zdaj to?  Ha ha On hoce v zameno mene???? HA HA HA Smeh je zdaj se vecji… in jaz kot jaz, ne bi bila jaz, ce ne bi bila za foro, ni panike, no problem, Evi dam kamero in jaz stopim k njemu, ni panike, evo tuki mene za kosilo ha ha ha ha  In ne boste verjel, ni bilo potrebno placat kosila, v zameno za en nedolzni poljub ha ha in smo sli, vsi nasmejani, tako mi kot oni. Kaj dela energija in kaj vse lahko clovek naredi v smehu! In te zgodbe se ni konec. Eva in najin prijatelj odideta pred mano. Jaz se se poslovim od mojega moza ha ha in ko stopim na cesto zacne mocno padati dez. Mimo pripelje boda boda, motorcek in me vprasa ce rabim prevoz. Ker sem bila se vedno vsa nasmejana in pod vplivom prejsnje energije, mu prijazno odgovorim, da sta moja prijatelja ze kar pred mano in da ni panike jih bom ze dohitela ha ha. Toda on ne zapelje mimo, se ustavi in s prijazno besedo povabi, da me pelje zastonj J haha …smeh ni popustil in sploh, ko sta me zagledala Eva in najin prijatelj kako z lahkoto sem dobila se prevoz, nas je popadel se vecji smeh ha ha, ki ga ni in ni bilo konca….Zato ljudje SMEJTE SE!

To je le en delcek iz cele sestavljanke, ki sestavlja najino zgodbo Ruande. Mogoce kdaj v prihodnosti jo bo brati v kaki knjigi, nikoli se ne ve haha Spoznali sva veliko dobrih ljudi, ki bodo ostali v najinih srcih zavedno. Zopet sva se srecali s trenerjem Ruandske nogometne ekipe, ter sli z njim na cisto pravi trening na ogromni stadion. Evin prijatelj iz Kenije nama je dal kontakt od njegovega bratranca Kaze-ja, ki se je izkazal za pravega gostitelja, bil je najin vodic po Kigaliju in bliznji okolici. Tako sva imeli moznost, da v varnih rokah zacutiva tudi nocno zivljenje v diskotekah in barih. Africani res znajo migat, plesejo prav vsi, mislim, da ni Africana, ki ne bi znal plesat. Afriska muzika je ziva, polna energije in je naju z Evo cisto prevzela, nama je tako blizu kot, da bi z njo odrascali. Nocno opazovanje Kigalija, iz enega izmed hotelov, ki ponuja cudoviti pogled povsod okrog, je bilo kot, da je svet na najini roki. Bar, ki je obdan s steklom in vsak pogled je zasut s tisocimi luckami, ti da obcutek kot da si v vesolju.

Kaze je bil tudi najin spremljevalec do dveh cerkva, ki stojita 20 km ven iz Kigalija in kjer so se leta 1994 zgodili mnozicni poboji. Tam sva spoznali vodica, enega izmed osmih prezivelih, ki nama je povedal svojo grozovito zgodbo, kako je videl umreti 7000 ljudi, med njimi tudi svoje starse in brate ter sestro. Njegovo zgodbo bova opisali pod delujeva, saj bova skusali temu fantu uresniciti sanje o studiju v tujini.

Cisto sva pozabili na cas in skoraj pozabili, da nama je Ruandska viza ze skoraj potekla. UPS!! J Tezko je bilo zopet zapustit nove prijatelje, saj imava obcutek, kot da jih poznava ze celo zivljenje. Toda to je najina pot, ki nama vse bolj prinasa istomislece ljudi, take ki jih potrebujeva za najino delovanje. S pozitivnimi mislimi privlaciva dogodke, ki si jih zeliva. Spoznavava sebe ter druga drugo. Sva kot ogledali, ki ga druga drugi drziva, da vidiva in prepoznavava v drugi svoje napake in slabosti. Ta pot ni samo pot zanimivih dogodivscin, je definitvino pot duhovne rasti in ucenja.

Do takih spoznanj clovek ne pride, ce ne zapusti varnega domacega zavetja, ter se ne poda v cisto neznano tuje okolje. Kaj vec o najini duhovni rasti vam napiseva naslednjic

Simona

But ok, now is time for me to share with you another story from Uganda, more precisely, from Kabale. We were somehow forced to stay there for more than three weeks because we got seriously ill. First it happened that my beloved Simona almost passed out after we had breakfast in a local joint. We were eating omelets and after that she just became very weak, white in her face and started to get dizzy and losing conscious..she run to the toilet coz she thought she will vomit…there were Jana and a waitress escorting her…in the midtime I was running across the street to call for a doctor…when I came back I found her shivering on the floor of the toilet…we thought first she was food poisoned…Simona felt a little better during the day, but when the night came I got the same symptoms…I woke up during the night and my body felt so sick, I didn’t know whether I will puke or go to the toilet, it felt like somebody was putting needles in my belly, stomach…my heart was beating extremely fast and I was shivering…very weakend I went to the bathroom just praying that I don’t faint, coz nobody would find me there at 2 o’clock a.m….I sat there on the floor, just trying to get better and trying to calm down…very dizzy and shaky I went back to sleep…and these kind of symptoms and a huge heart pain were escorting us for the next 2 weeks, even more…we went to 3 different doctors, done all the blood tests that was possible, no malaria, no typhoid, no brucellosis, nothing….diagnosis: food poisoning - little pet Salmonella… We got antibiotics, which didn’t help us much.

We were also that lucky that we met Collin, guy from Ireland, who is working in Kabale, fixing teeth to the locals and he also decided to help The Batwa tribe (Pygmies). I broke a part of one tooth at the back when eating sugar cane and Simona had also some problems, so Collin had fixed us everything, so we can walk around happy and smiling.

Our symptoms still didn’t disappear, we felt really weak, really tired when we just walked through the streets of Kabale, that’s why we were resting many afternoons, doing nothing but trying to get better…heart was making us real problems and we felt like something is blocking our body to function normally…so we decided to travel to Rwanda only when we get better…

Becouse we are somehow limited in our daily activities, we are moving only around to get some food, water, maybe seeing someone for a short time, otherwise we are resting in a dormitory of Edirisa…quite an amazing spending of our time in Africa, hahaha…Almost every day we are eating lunch in the same restaurant where they serve real African food: matoke (smashed big green bananas), posho (same as Ugali in Kenya, food out of white maize), chapatti, rice, sweet potato…all of this is just additional food to vegetable/fish/chicken/beef sauce..africans eat A LOT!…so many carbohydrates we didn’t eat in our life…and the consequences can be seen, hahaha….when one day I decided to have fried eggs sunny side on top and they were btw on the menu, the waiter was looking at me as I’ve just ordered some specialty hard to make…he was writing my order down for quite some time, hahaha,…me and Simona just started to laugh…she ordered the normally eaten African food….she already got her meal…almost finished it and I was still waiting for my eggs…she already ate her lunch, when a waiter came and very sadly told us that kitchen chef failed to make those eggs for me….we burst into laughter and he felt really sorry and humble…then I said if I can show him how to prepare them and he was more than happy to get some help…we went into a restaurant kitchen, which was very dark, they were still cooking on a charcoal, no gas, no electricity…then I started to show to the chef how simple is to prepare fried eggs sunny side on top…when we came another day and ordered eggs, the waiter came very proudly with a shiny face to us, serving us properly fried eggs…juhuuuuu!!!…what an accomplishment! J..we were more than happy to help.

Life in Kabale can be quite interesting..although we didn’t do much due to our disease, we spend a lot of time with street kids, so called kung-fu kids. They are whether without parents or they have them but they decided to live in the street without school, with no rules or obligations. Just trying to get some food every day by asking people for money, food or by stealing and also by eating food from garbage…I wouldn’t believe it if I wouldn’t see them with my own eyes…crowd of kids, from smaller to bigger ones, fighting for food in the open container of garbage on the street…and Uganda is so rich with food, crops, their land is so fertile, everything so green, every piece of land cultivated…and these kids in the dirt fighting for already thrown-away food…what a wonderful world! With those kids we became real friends, some of them were prepared to show us their poor home…otherwise they were calling us every morning through the window of our dormitory…we could sleep at 7 or 8 a.m., when those kids were already on the streets calling our name to come out, talk to them, give them something to eat or just to joke around…as they live on the streets of Kabale, they need to protect themselves from others (police, adult street people), that’s why they are practicing kung fu…what a life for those who have a broken home or are just broken by themselves…The story of our friend Godwin you can soon read on a subpage Our work: LINK.

People in Kabale can be quite interesting and funny…except for one guy named Andrew, who was like and angel from the sky as he took such good care of us, really not trying to get anything from us, just being there and helping us to get better with bringing fruits and showing us his project, his secondary school and his gardens and plantations…we were amazed by the way of his thinking..he is very young and already achieved and done for local people so much…all respect to him…..other people are quite predictable in a way that most of them want to marry ‘mzungu’, they would give you everything, everybody tell you that they love you after 3 minutes of conversation…that’s how we could get married with a security guy on the street, a policeman, even a doctor which we visited due to our unknown disease…quite qualified and good situated men J…..so if there are any women outside yearning for a black man, trust me, here are plenty and very available, hahaha…but I don’t guarantee about the quality of understanding and communication in this relationship…coz in time you can get quite bored and maybe find out you need something more than that…of course we cannot generalize..there are always some, better said rare bright stars, which can be really precious.

Maybe another thing which I find interesting is that in Kabale prison stay a lot of women…they mostly poisoned their husbands…don’t ask me why, don’t know…but what i’ve seen is that African women are very good ones, they are the strong ones, they do all the work regarding family, children, they’re digging the fields, fetching water, doing loundry, cooking…and men..they just sit around, talk and wanna marry ‘mzungu’, most of them are embarrassed to tell that they are already married and have kids…what a denial…lying to themselves…sad….lots of them are drunk most of the time…and are lazy….again I will not generalize, but honestly, most of them….so this might be one of the the reasons..

The biggest touristic attraction in Uganda is to see one of the rarest animals on the planet, mountain gorillas. To see them it costs 500 $. This is nothing for us, we are loaded with money, hahaa…that’s why we went to see them……not really..hahaha…we were trying to find people who would take us there for free or for a very little money…we were actually quite good, coz with our thoughts we managed to bring closer few people who are quite skilled in dodgy games J…which means, they are taking people to the Bwindi National Park without paying entrance fee, without papers, on their own…which can be quite dangerous…we had 3 opportunities to go and see them for much smaller money, but it was too risky, we could all end up in jail…coz the thing is we should pay a little money to a driver who would take us to Bwindi, then another small money to the man at the entrance of the park..and with a small money to bribe another guy, the ranger for security (with a gun), who would actually take us into the park to see gorillas…first we thought like: ’so what, we can try and go, this is the only way for us to see gorillas, and if we go to jail, this will be another good story for our webpage, hahaha…’..but we were more concerned about the guy who would take us there…he could get into serious trouble..and this is not funny anymore…we could wait for another week for the 4^th option where we would enter the park someplace else than normally, but then we would go and walk in the wilderness among the animals on our own…without a ranger, without anything…completely on our own..hahaha…which is very dangerous…then we just let the thought of seeing mountain gorillas go….another reason to come back

In home of edirisa we met interesting people, a French guy Olivier who is working and traveling all over the world for the last 11 years, then asian girl from Switzerland who left Europe because of recession, trying to work on Zanzibar, maybe Singapur…free as a bird…and few Edirisa volunteers from UK and Germany who are trying to contribute to the local community as best as they can…and many other backpackers who are going all the way to Cape Town or just got from there…so with many of them there is a possibililty that our ways will cross again…looking forward to that coz each person that we meet brings us something fresh, new, some message that we cherish a lot…we all learn from each other all our life…I definitely couldn’t learn as much as I do if I would stay at home and meet the same people all the time…that’s how it goes and thats why I had the urge to go and explore Africa and myself…and try not to live an ordinary life…which i’ve tried so hard…but this is just not for me…finally I can admit it to myself and all of you..

Thank you for being there…I need you..

With love,

Eva

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Pozdravljena druzba,
ki bere najine zgodbe in spremlja najino potepanje po Afriki.

Minilo je kar nekaj casa odkar sva vas nazadnje azurirali z najinimi dogodivscinami. Kot prvo je problem v tem, da nimava prenosnega racunalnika, ki bi nama omogocal, da bi lahko veckrat pisali zanimive in kratke zgodbe. Zato trenutno zelo intenzivno delava na tem, da si kupiva kakega poceni, mogoce tu v Afriki ali pa od zunaj. Kot drugo je problem tudi v internetni povezavi, ki je vecino casa pocasna in zelo slaba. Toda, kljub tem manjsim problemov vam obljubiva, da bova v prihodnje skusali biti cimbolj azurne. Zato vsi tisti, ki naju podpirate in uzivate ob branju, posredujete naprej najino spletno stran in mogoce bo potem kaj vec moznosti, da se tam zunaj najde kak sponzor, ki bi nama z veseljem priskocil na pomoc, tako glede nadaljevanja najine poti ali pa pri nakupu mini prenosnega racunalnika. Ta nama bi prihranil veliko dragocenega casa in denarja! Hvala ze vnaprej, za kakrsnokoli pomoc.

In zdaj k nadaljevanju zgodbe, ki je ostala zapisana tam pri jezeru Bunyonyi oz. v manjsem mestecu Kabale. Tu sva ostali kar dobre tri tedne, saj je bila glavni razlog bolezen. S prva je kazalo, kot da gre za zastrupitev s hrano in kasneje kot viroza!!! Bilo je jutro, tako kot ponavadi, sva z Evo in ta dan se z Jano, odsli na zajtrk v lokalno restavracijo. Ponavadi z Evo pojeva kak ananas ali banane in chappati (palacinka narejena iz moke in vode, ter pecena v ponvi), toda po vsakdanjem enolicnem zajtrku, sva si zazeleli omlete. Takoj ko sem prenehala jesti, je moje telo postalo zelo sibko, srce mi je zacelo nabijati kot da bo eksplodiralo in pocasi sem se izgubljala, oddaljevala od Jane in Eve. Zbrala sem se toliko moci, da sem odsla na stranisce, ker nisem vedela ali bom bruhala ali kaj…??? Nato sem Jano prosila, da mi prinese vodo, katero sem spila na dusek in takoj cutila olajsanje. Skupaj smo nato odsle k zdravniku, kjer so naredili krvne preiskave, toda vse je bilo negativno, ni ne malarija, ne trebusni tifus, ne brusela itd.. Zdravnik mi je rekel, da naj le pocivam in pijem veliko vode, ter da naj to vzamem zelo na “easy”. Ha ha na easy, jaz pa sem cist fertik!!! Ponoci je zbolela se Eva, ki je dobila enake simptome kot jaz. Zjutraj mi je povedala, kako se je pocutila in da jo je bilo it strah na stranisce, ker se je bala, da jo ne bo nihce nasel, ce se kaj zgodi!! Ej, tole je pa ze resno. Zato odideva skupaj se enkrat k drugemu zdravniku, kateri zopet naredi krvne preiskave, toda zopet vse ok. Po tednu dni, nama ni nic bolje, zdaj ze tezko dihava, boli naju v srcu, spika v prsnem kosu, se vrti, kot da ni vec to najino telo. Zato se odlociva, da odideva se do tretjega zdravnika in zahtevava, da naredi vec testov, da naj pogleda tudi druge stvari ne samo teste na malarijo in bolezni. Krvna slika pokaze, da imava povecane limfocite, ter tako sumi da gre za salmonelo!? Ok, jeva antibiotike, ki pa nama ne povrnejo zdravja. Vecino casa pocivava, bolezen naju spremlja, toda kljub temu sva nasmejani in se vedno imava smisel za humor…ha ha

Z Evo sva imeli nekaj problemov z zobmi, saj najini nisto tako trdni kot Afriski, da bi lahko z vso silo jedli sladkorni trs! Zopet sva imeli sreco, da naju je Jana peljala do Collina, irskega zobozdravnika, ki nama je povrnil zopet lep nasmeh. Eva in Jana sta pokali od smeha, ko sem sedela na stolu in asistirala Collinu pri popravilu zoba ha ha

Kratke razdalje, ki jih premoreva prehodit, so zelo zabavne in vredne najinega daljsega postanka tu. Vse je z razlogom J ha ha V restavraciji, kjer jeva najine dnevne obroke, matoke (zmackana jedilna banana), posho (podobno nasemu grisu), sladki krompir, chappati itd., ki vsebujejo veliko ogljikovih hidratov, kateri se kar hitro zacnejo kazat v najini tezi in obliki haha …ja dobivava na tezi, pa ceprav se nama zdi, da jeva manj kot doma, Eva naroci jajcek na oko, z rumeno stranjo zgoraj. Natakar je malce zmeden in pravi, da ne ve ce bo kuhar znal naredit to, toda lahko poizkusi haha Ko jaz ze pojem moje kosilo, pride natakar in pravi, da je sefu kuhinje spodletelo pri pripravi jajcka na oko ha ha… se smejiva.. Ponudiva se, da lahko kuharju pokazeva kako se to naredi, da bo za drugic vedel kaj so to jajcka na oko J Z veseljem sprejmejo najino ponudbo in tako odideva v kuhinjo, kjer se vedno kuhajo na odprtem ognju z ogljem. In zacnemo s kuharskim tecajem. Kuhar je zelo navdusen in ze nasljednji dan sprobava, ce mu bo tokrat uspelo. In res, prav ponosno pride do naju in pokaze jajcka na oko z rumeno stranjo zgoraj J ha ha Se eno dobro delo, ki sva ga naredilli.

Kabale naju zadrzujejo, saj bi radi videli mogocne crne gorske gorile, za katere bi morali odsteti 500USD, toda midve upava na boljso ponudbo. Bo nama uspelo? Z Evo se ves cas hecava in verjameva, da lahko z mislimi prikliceva prave ljudi in si zamisliva ter dobiva kar hoceva J In res, kar naenkrat se nama ponudijo tri moznosti za ogled goril. Yupee… Prvi fant, bi naju peljal za nizjo ceno, tam okrog 300USD, saj so v to vpletene se druge osebe, poleg njega se varnostnik pri vhodu v nacionalni park, ter ranger (vodic s pusko). Dodgy game ji pravijo in midve ze cisto navduseni, si vizualizirava gorile, kako jim dajeva banane, se jih dotikava… haha ..Druga moznost se nama ponudi, ko na internetu pisem maile in me ogovori prijazni fant, ter ponudi ogled goril za 50USD…iiii…dobra cena, zelo dobro nama gre.. ha ha..On naj bi naju peljal brez vpletenosti drugih oseb, podkupili bi varnostnika in sli brez skrbi v park, ter sami poiskali gorile. Hm hm je to varno? Itak, da ne! Hoditi po gozdu, brez rangerja in njegove puske, saj nikoli se ne ve kdaj se kaki gorili utrga in napade. No, in nato se tretja moznost, ogled goril zastonj! VAV tole pa je ze cist noro. Najin prijatelj, kateremu zelo zaupava, saj sva z njim preziveli kar nekaj casa, ter je zelo srcna oseba, ki nama je pripravljen vedno pomagat, ponudi, da naju pelje zastonj. Je to mozno? Nato se vsedemo se z najinim voznikom in debatiramo, ter se rezimo in vizualiziramo vse mozne variante. Od tega kako nevarno je, da nas lahko aretirajo, da pristanemo v zaporu in da bo to zelo zanimiva zgodba za najino spletno stran. Ha ha ni panike, vse za dobro zgodbo, tud v zapor lahko greva, samo da bodo ljudje z vsem navdusenjem brali najine dogodivscine. Ha ha…in na koncu iz vseh treh variant ni bilo nic!!! L Zopet bi morali cakati se teden dni, da bi nasli se cetrto moznost, toda cas tece naprej in najina pot je se dolga do Cape Towna, zato bo treba: pot pod noge in iti dalje.

Ugandci so zelo odprti ljudje, na vsakem koraku te kdo ogovori, prijazno pozdravi in zazeli lepo bivanje v Ugandi. Toda ta pozornost je se toliko bolj vecja zaradi najine polti! Sploh moski so cisto nori na “muzungu” in lahko bi se ze nestetokrat porocile ha ha Vsak moski, ki naju ogovori, se zeli ze drugo minutko porocit. Ha ha Ni vazno kako zgledas, tukaj je vazna samo barva koze, belka ima denar, zagotovo ha ha itak, midve sva polne denarja in prav tako vsi beli ljudje, nihce ni reven, vsi smo bogati!!! Jej jej! S takim odzivom naju preseneti tako zdravnik, ali varnostnik na ulici, receptor v hotelu, prodajalec sadja ali mimoidoci. Presenetil me je tudi policaj, ko sem zvecer sla mimo banke in me je prijazno ustavil, ter zelel le poklepetati z mano, toda jaz sem bila v nuji, da pridem cimprej do hostla. Bil je zelo direkten in rekel, da zeli belko za zeno in ce sem jaz se frej ha ha ja ja sem se frej, nikoli ne lazem, da sem porocena in ne nosim prstana, sem iskrena in vedno pripravljena jih poslusat ter razlozit se moje stalisce glede vsega tega…vedno ene in iste razlage, da vse belke niso bogatasinje in polne denarja, ter da ni vazna barva koze, da je vazno srce itd… ha ha… nevem koliko se jih to prime, toda vseeno, skodit ne more ha ha J

Ugandske zenske pa so zelo trdne, delavne, saj so one tiste, ki podpirajo vse stiri vogale v hisi. Vzgajajo otroke, kuhajo, perejo, kopljejo trdo zemljo in jo obdelujejo, hodijo po vodo, ter nosijo tezke stvari na glavah, medtem ko vecina moz poseda po ulicah in pijejo. Zato ni ocitno, da je veliko zensk zaprtih v zaporu, saj so zastrupile svoje moze. Jej jej, kar mal srahljivo poslusat take zgodbe, in da so resnicne!!!

Vsako jutro naju pred hostlom cakajo ulicni otroci, ki ze na vse zgodaj govorijo, pojejo, se derejo in klicejo najina imena. Z njimi se pogovarjava in skusava jih razumet, zakaj zivijo na ulici. Fantje so dobri prijatelji in znajo pomagat drug drugemu. Toda vcasih med njimi vzkipi rivalstvo za koscek hrane, ki ga izbrskajo iz kupa smeti. Umazani in smrdeci tekajo po ulicah in skusajo preziveti. Na vsakem koraku sva zasledovani, takoj vedo, kdaj se prikazeva na ulici ter nama sledijo kamorkoli greva. Kupiva jim kak ananas, chappati, samoso, kar seveda ni zadosti za dnevni obrok. Oklepajo se naju, stiskajo in drzijo za roko, ter spremljajo po ulicah Kabal. Tezko je zapustiti prijatelje, ki so nama zlezli pod kozo ze prvo minuto. Kaksno bo novo jutro, naslednji dan in kaksna prihodnost jih caka? Kdo ve? Vse je v njih samih, rabijo starse, ki jih bodo razumeli in prisluhnili, se z njimi igrali in smejali, delili sreco in zalost…. Vse to imam jaz doma, varnost, zavetje in toplino, zakaj sem tu?, zakaj nisem tam v varnem gnezdecu?, zakaj me klice Afrika?, zakaj pisem te zgodbe? So le zame ali so tudi za druge?

…klice me glas in govori: “Simona bodi pogumna in pojdi naprej…

Je knjiga v kateri avtor opisuje zivljenje ljudi v Ugandi, predvsem se dotakne ljudi, ki so zboleli za AIDS-om, ter se soocajo z blizajoco se smrtjo. Veliko starejsih pise svoje dnevnike za svoje otroke, da bodo, ko bodo odrasli lahko prebrali njihove modrosti o zivljenju, ki bi jo morali poslusati kot otroci od svojih starsev v casu odrascanja.

To spominsko knjigo je 27.1.2000 napisala Aguga Christine za svojo hcerko Everlyn Akoth

-      misli o zivljenju in v kaj verjamem

Zivljenje ima v sebi veliko vec od tega, kar vidimo in vemo. Zivljenje je predvsem Bozji dar. Ziveti pomeni odkrivati, ziveti pomeni biti dejaven.

Morda vidis stvari, ki jih ni videl se nihce drug, kajti vsak od nas gleda na svet s svojimi ocmi. To, kar vidimo, gledamo na razlicne nacine, vsak skladno s svojimi osebnimi izkusnjami. Opazuj zviljenje, opazuj svoje zivljenje. Tu je svet, ki ga moras odkrivati in razvijati. Zivljenje si lahko dolocas sama! Ko bos starejsa, bos ugotovila, da je vsak clovek edinstven. Nauciti se moras tehtati in izbirati,kar je dobrega. Ko bos v zivljenju naletela na nenavadne okoliscine ali izzive, se bos zavedala svojih lastnih moci in zmoznosti. Prej ali slej bos vprasala “zakaj”. Kaj je razlog za zivljenje, zakaj smo na svetu? Zakaj se to dogaja? Zakaj je tako, kot je? Bi bilo lahko drugace? Predvsem pa zivljenje ne spoznamo, dokler ga ne zivimo in ne prisluhnemo tistemu, kar nam pripoveduje! Bog nam je podaril zivljenje in od nas je odvisno, ali ga bomo unicili ali kaj dosegli. Draga hci, predvsem bi te rada opomnila, da je edini vir zivljenja Bog. Zato ga postavi na prvo mesto pred vsem drugim v svojem zivljenju. Misli tudi na to, da je Jezus pot, resnica in zivljenje. Nihce ne pride k svetemu ocetu, ce ne gre prek njega.

Ko bos zivela to zivljenje, nikoli ne pozabi pomagati pomoci potrebnim in deliti z drugimi tisto malo, kar imas. V vseh zivljenjskih okoliscinah bodi hvalezna Bogu. Pot bo morda tezka, toda Bog te bo vodil, sa je njegova milost velika.

• Stvari, v katere verjamem, so: predvsem da nam je dal Bog zivljenje in da nam ga lahko spet vzame, kadar se mu zljubi.
• Potem verjamem v Kristusovo moc, da nas ocisti in spravi z Bozjim ocetom, ce obzalujemo grehe in se jim odrecemo.
• Verjamem v radodarnost - vec kot das, bolj te bo Bog blagoslovih.
• Prav tako verjamem v pomoc ljudem, ki so potrebni pomoci, predvsem tistim, ki bodo v sili pomagali tudi meni.
• Verjamem v prijateljstvo z ljudmi vseh slojev, se posebno s tistimi, ki sirijo zaupanje, zvestobo in sirokosrcnost in so pobozni.
• Verjamem tudi v nasvete drugih ljudi, predvsem svojih starsev. Zivljenjske izkusnje so mi pokazale: ce bi upostevala njihove nasvete ze prej, pred zakonom, potem ne bi zabredla v to katastrofo. Zato, ljuba moja hci, se nauci upostevati nasvete starejsih!