Moshi

TANZANIA part II - Life in Moshi

We were still in Moshi, still looking for tourists to take them to safari, this was a good opportunity for us to earn some extra money, when me, myself & I twisted my precious ankle :)…roads in Moshi are not exactly what we are used to and when I stepped off the pavement, with road not really in one level, I just kneeled down and my ankle got huge and full of blood in few seconds…so I sat on the pavement, people were staring at me what the hell did mzungu do to herself…and Simona quckly brought me a cold bottle of water to put on my leg and we waited for our friend John, safari guy, who of course did not appear…sometimes is hard to deal with africans, they are not reliable, they say something or you agree on something, later on everything is completely different….they change their mind very quickly….especially when it comes to money….but me and Simona got used to that quite quickly and we don’t trust people here.. .we don’t even get angry, mad or anything, we start to laugh and tell them that they are full of shit, hahaha….and at that point most of them start to laugh….coz they know its bloody true…

As my leg hurted me a lot, I needed to rest for few days…I went into hospital to x-ray my ankle to check if it’s broken…and I could see that machines in hospital..uuuf, they were really old, it seemed like they got it from Europe or America, used ones and not functioning properly…but on the picture it seemed that my leg is just fine….no broken bone or something, hahaha….but maybe that picture was not even a picture of my leg, hahaha, who knows……if I wanted to go to town, I needed to call a taxi..and that’s how I met another person who I spent a lot of time with…Steve, a taxi driver…many times we sang and laughed out loud while driving around as we knew each other forever…if I told him to pick me up in 10 minutes, he needed ages to come,..if I told him to come in about an hour, he was there to pick me up in 5 minutes, hahahahaa…so funny!….yeaaaa, Africans…you go either mad or you laugh like you never laughed before..I’ve obviously chosen the second option, hahahaa…

We were spending very nice and peaceful days in Moshi, each day brought us new adventures, we integrated more and more with people and environment….everything was just too good…that’s why something needed to go wrong,…one evening Simona just started to vomit…once…ok, maybe she ate something strange….twice…huu, maybe really food poisoning…it will be better….but we ate the same food??….third time…and during the night many many times…..I was really concerned…of course the first thought was malaria…she was not really afraid what was going on…she even told me that I don’t need to wake up every time when she was vomiting to take away the liquid left behind, hahaha….when the morning came I took her to a nearby clinic…test they did proved that she has malaria…she was dehydrated that’s why a doctor wanted to give her infusion, but the nurse couldn’t find a vain!!…eii, they really don’t know what they’re doing here!!!, hahaha….then she called for another nurse to help her…she also didn’t do anything…everything was there, a needle, a butterfly for infusion to run into vain, all the drop ins…but later on even 2 doctors couldn’t prepare the infusion because after they finally found a vein, the blood from Simona’s vein just didn’t come out…so there was 5 people around her bed trying to plug in that monstrous infusion, hahahaa,…..I was just watching them and I couldn’t believe that this was really going on….after that disaster they said that she should go home to rest and as she didn’t vomit for the whole morning, maybe she can just drink a rehydration liquid…Simona was pierced already all over her arm that’s why she said that she will take electrolites orally at home…of course we tried that but she started to vomit again…then I grabbed her hand and took her back to clinic furiously…saying that if a whole team of doctors and nurses wont find the bloody vain and start with infusion, that I will do it myself!…she was really weak and she needed help….when we got there, everything went smoothly.. .finally relief!…becouse she couldn’t take drugs against malaria orally, they gave her also infusion of quinine and she needed to stay in the clinic for few days… I realised that Simona was in good hands, doctors and nurses were really concerned and did their best to help her, they were actually very happy to treat mzungu, hahaha..as she was a guest in their home..hahaha…we had a funny conversation with one of the doctors about African and white women…that African men really like if woman has a big butt..and that older African women still have a thin waist (I wouldn agree on that one, hahaha) and bigger butt…but when mzungu gets older, she looks like a bag of maize, hahahahhahahahaa….no shape at all..hahahaha….so I don’t know why they all want so desperately to marry a mzungu, hahaa…first they should rethink what they really want…hahaha…(I will not mention.. or I will do it anyway, that doctors in the clinic wanted to arrange a date with Simona when she gets better…she would be a great woman for themselves, although if they were older, or for their sons, hahahaha…..they are so transparent, ahhahaha and funny! Like little children, hhaha)

Simona stayed for two days in the clinic, after that she was resting at home..but after two days she was already crazily dancing in a club called Glacier nearby…me and Michael were just laughing at her..this woman is crazy..right after very bad malaria, she is on her feet…not only on her feet, but almost exploding of the enrgy!…thats the spirit girl!!!

I already told you that we came in Moshi just to see Kilimanjaro from close…but the things that started to happen to us and people that we started to meet were so great that we just couldn’t leave the place…one of them was Michael, older man from United States, Carolina….he is living in Moshi for the last 3 years and he is really living a peaceful life although his past was really interesting…the life he lived before was a real life adventure…someone should make a movie about that man…when he heard how we are traveling and what we are doing along the way and what are our plans for the future, he offered us to live in his big house for free and as long as we want, otherwise he runs this place as bed & breakfast…that’s how we started to live in Shira place (Shira is one of the Kilimanjaro peaks), a beautiful house with a big garden, with two locals that do all the work around the house (Omari and a maasai Dawdi) and 4 lovely dogs. We got the best room in the house with a huge balcony and a view on Kilimanjaro…u better check the pictures in our Gallery. As we got really good friends with Michael and shared many stories about our lives and laughed a lot, he trusted us so much, that for exchange for staying in his house for free, we can run the place for that time…which means, welcome the guests, preparing them breakfast or whatever else was needed…sometimes Michael was away and we were running the place…and we felt really good…we could imagine to do that for some time…to have a lovely hostel where you meet many interesting people, climbers to Kilimanjaro, volunteers, adventurers…and so many nice people we met in neighbouring villages…that’s why few afternoons when we had time, we cooked lunch for our friends…one time for the kids who live nearby. we prepared them their local food named ugali, but in a little different way :)…ugali is a thick cluster of food made out of white maize flour cooked in water…they usually eat that together with vegetables or meat…it is like a neutral part of a meal, as rice….with no specific taste…so as we are such good cooks, haha, we cooked a slovenian ugali for the kids…we cooked a maize flour in milk and added some sugar and chocolate on top of it…of course we tried that thing already before and we loved it!….when we served that to kids, they had a little bit bittered faces, like, what the hell did mzungu cook to us, hahaha…this is not the right way to prepare ugali…they were quite concerned and thought they need to teach us how to cook real ugali…we were laughing and just instisted that they should try…when they tried the first spoon, they didn’t yet decide whether is it good or bad..they were not used to that of course, but later we could see they love it…those kids really started to like us and they wanted to be in the house every afternoon after school, some of them were standing in front of their homes and waited for us to pass by when we will finally go home…it was sometimes hard to say no to them, but we were also tired now and then and didn’t have energy to cook for them, dance or just talk behind the kitchen table…

We felt like we are at home in this Shira place…first time during our journey we had a kitchen where we could cook whatever we want…finally some serious domestic food…prepared by us….so in the morning we made ourselves great and healthy fruit salads with ice cream…for lunch lots of vegetables, salads, pastas…and as I was dreaming of Slovenian food named ’struklji’ which are best made from my mom, Simona was so kind that she was ready to prepare it for me…and Michael…..and Omari and Dawdi (gardeners) and herself of course, hahahaa….we needed to improvise a bit as we didn’t got all the ingredients…but I must say, those ’struklji’ were fabulous…u could just eat them…some made with soft cheese and raisins and another one made out of apples and raisins…mmmm….I felt like I was at home…exactly like home…I was a little bit afraid of the feeling, ahhaha….but I think you can be home anywhere…where you are…where your heart is…more and more I have a feeling that my home is the world…not just one place…but many…any…a feeling that you don’t belong nowhere and everywhere….that all the people that we meet are all one…we all live on the same planet, all struggling to live a happy and peaceful life…that’s why we need to help each other…and be aware that one without another can’t exist…we need each other…that’s how I feel after all this time…but I think that most of travelers feel like that…you feel like the world is in your little hand…and you can just imagine how many different people, races, tribes with its own culture, tradition, ceremonies, languages, way of thinking, functioning in this world….its amazing how we are all so different but anyway we are all the same, one…I am sometimes soooo amazed….as on the day when our good friend Baraka, he is a maasai, took us to his village…His home is 2 hours away from Moshi, but he is staying in this town to learn English language and to earn some money…lots of maasai people work in town as security guards in front of hotels, hostels, lodges….some of them work in tourism and earn some money with taking tourists to a maasai village…that’s also what Baraka does….first we met him in town of Moshi..and when we started to talk we saw that he is really different from other maasai in his way of thinking…most of maasai people in town want money from you, lost of them are drunkards…it seems like they are somehow lost in a civilized world….but Baraka thinks in his very own way…he is not drinking alcohol, not begging for money or being sneaky to get some…not even he agrees with maasai men to have many wives…he is quite unique for his tribe and because of his way of thinking we had many things to share and talk about …one day early morning he took us to his village…we went with a mini van from Moshi through fields and areas non-populated…through Arusha where me and Simona got maasai clothes, coz we wanted to really blend in ….From little village on our way we took pick up truck to Baraka’s village…when we jumped off of it in the middle of nowhere, just two little houses were there and a vast windy land full of aloe vera plants and donkeys and maasai people walking around in their typical red clothes…such peace, a place far from crazy world in town where loads of people live…..(if you want to know more about maasai culture you can find my post from the beginning of our trip where I visited maasai in Kenya (Eva at Maasai)…)…
We needed to walk for approximately half an hour to get to his village…cows were passing us by, the wind was still blowing, along the road we met some of maasai people from his village greeting us, welcoming us…dusty road among small hills then openned into an open space, open land with little huts on the horizon…soon we came to these huts..people were curious who came into their village..and after we greeted almost all people from the village, he took us to see his family… they welcomed us so nicely…we gave them food we bought on the way: maize, beans, sugar, bread…and quickly they started to prepare a dinner for us, cooked rice and potato and milk tea…while we were waiting for food, we went into another manyatta where we had a lot of laughter with Baraka’s brothers, sister and his grandmother..these people are so simple and because they were not brought up in the society with rules of behaviour on every step, quite crazy, hahaha,,,,ready to laugh and joke around anytime…we were in the dark manyatta, we had just a little fire, we could barely see each other…and we sang and danced,,,they thought us how they dance and jump when they celebrate and how do they sing, what kind of noise they produce, hahahaha…it was a call of nature inside of them…a magnificent voices and sounds coming out of their lungs while jumoing high above….uuhh, u get goose bumps….our laughter could be heard in far off villages for a long time during the night…we all forgot about time, when Baraka came to tell us that dinner is ready…we stood for a while outside on the wind, below the stars…there was completely no light…just nature, few huts, goats and cows were already sleeping in fenced place nearby and endless sky with tons of stars….me and Simona were just standing still with face turned up to the sky,.and we just couldn’t believe how little we are and how magnificent nature is…we could see Southern cross which is seen only on southern hemisphere… maaasai told us that their light during the night are Stars and the Moon…they can walk around during the night with no problem…
After we had a lovely simple dinner we went to sleep…four of us in a manyatta with no fire…we slept on a bed made out of branches of a tree covered with a bag of maize I think.,..and we were covered with maasai kanga…but my goodness, ahhaha, the night was really cold, the wind was blowing through the holes in the hut…we were shivering..and laughing coz none of us could sleep…the next thing that was bothering us during the night were bed bugs who were crawling everywhere…it was quite an experience, hahaa…Baraka told us that this manyatta was not regularly used and because we didn’t have fire, bugs were everywhere…but ok, hakuna matata, we got used to almost everything by now…the next morning we woke up into a beautiful morning in a maasai land…maasai were already releasing goats and cows on the field…..we felt like we are somewhere in Slovenian mountains, with cow bells, wind, short grass eaten by cattle and very simple and kind people…it felt like we are at home..and we were also treated that way….we could just stay there..a feeling that we belong there was very intense…if I was not brought up in a civilized world with endless options what to do, with cinema, theatre, concerts, bookshops, cycling and many many more, I could live there forever without missing anything (coz I wouldn’t even know what is possible of course)..but now, the way I am, I could stay there for a month, maybe few months then I would start to miss other things….but definitely this is a place where I can go when I am fed up with people and life in the city…they told us that we are always welcomed, we are family…and we can come anytime….these people are so warm, they are all brothers and sisters, they help each other and they share everything…even women, hahaha
Maasai men are really kind to every white woman..Baraka was really kind to both of us…we were like big happy family, the three of us, walking around Moshi hand in hand…no jealousy, nothing….like brothers and sisters, love between friends….we all love each other and we are sure we will meet again and share even more together…
Before we left and said goodbye to the family, we went to maasai meat market, which is held every Saturday…they slaughter goats there and put the meat on fire for morans (maasai warriors) to enjoy the feast… eating meat like that is just for Morans, women can’t be part of it or even is forbidden to see them, me and Simona were exceptions…father of Baraka bought a big piece of goat meat and we went to a hidden place and set down in the circle..Baraka started to cut meat with his huge knife and delivering it to hungry dogs, ahhaha…us…Simona was the only one not eating it, coz she is a vegetarian..and we were both surprised how maasai weren’t surprised and didn’t ask her why she doesn’t eat meat, but excepted her decision as nomal…
Then we had to say goodbye to our good friends and went again on a pick up and drove away with a wind in our hair..the memories from this village and people will be never forgotten….what a precious lifetime experience…

Let me tell you just another few words about a woman we met in Moshi named Jane, she is an Indian and she introduced her religion called Jainism to us…she has a little shop with arts and crafts and many days we just hanged out in her place and we talked about life and life after death…she was telling us about Jainism, one of the oldest religions in the world ..it was known before Hinduism and Budhism and is not really known outside of India…she told us the philosophy of this religion which the basics you can read here:

PREACHINGS OF BHAGWAN MAHAVIRA - JAINISM

Every soul is independent. None depends on another.

All souls are alike. None is superior or inferior.

Every soul is in itself absolutely omniscient and blissful. The bliss does not come from outside.

Not only soul, but every object of the universe also, is subject to change by itself, without any external interference.

All human beings are miserable due to their own faults, and they can themselves be happy by rectifying the same.

The greatest mistake of a soul is non-recognition of its real-self and it can only be rectified by recognising itself.

There is no separate existence of God. Every body can attain Godhood by making supreme efforts in the right directions.

‘Know thyself; recognize thyself; be immersed by thyself’ - you will attain Godhood.

God is neither the creator nor the destructor of the universe. He is merely a silent observer and omniscent.

One, who, even after knowing the whole universe can remain unaffected and unattached is God.

When I was reading that I kinda knew everything already before…it seemed so familiar to me…this kind of religion is far better for me than Christianity in which I was brought up…

Jane took us also to see their little praying ceremony in their temple and after we went to a house where she lived before where now lives sister of her husband and her husband…and I was so surprised when we came there, we just said good evening to each other then we silently went to living room, where her husband was already meditating and we joined him….we had a beautiful music on and we all started to meditate ..this was so intense for me and sooo overwhelming….instead of saying millions of words where do we come from or what do we do in africa and things like that that most of people are asking us, we just sat silently and shared half an hour of meditation …this would be so nice to experience at home…that instead of going out for a coffee with a friend, we could just share few moments of silence together ….huu, long way to achieve that, hahahaa…

How better to end my post than with a poem that I really love:

The patterns the sea water makes as it moves around my feet
Are ALWAYS NEW, ALWAYS CHANGING.
This is a reminder that EVERY MOMENT IS FRESH.
The receding water tells me what I CAN LET GO of.
The incoming waters are the MEMORIES that are WORTH KEEPING.
The sound off the waves lapping on the shore evokes the realization that SOME THINGS ARE BETTER UNDERSTOOD WITHOUT WORDS.
The swirling water insists that I LIVE LIFE TO THE FULL.
The hills beyond the horizon of the ocean are the STRENGTH and STEADINESS OF MY BEING.
The SKY ABOVE with changing cloud formations and colours are MY ASPIRATIONS.
The gentle breeze with its changing direction is a suggestion to REMAIN CALM AND PEACEFULL when possible.
The soft sand receiving the imprints of my feet gives hints of FLEXIBILITY.
As I walk away from the ocean I give GRATITUDE for what it shows me.

(A VISIT TO THE SEA by Murray Rogers)

Big hug,

eva

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Moshi je prikupno mestece, ki je naju je z Evo cisto ocaral. Tu naj bi ostali le dva dni, da vidiva Kilimanjaro, toda tu ostajava ze cele tri tedne. Po safariju sva Johnu pomagali zopet loviti muzunge in med sprehajanjem po ulicah si je Eva zvila glezenj!!! Jej jej jej! Oteklina je bila v trentuku zelo velika, tako da je bila primorana pocivat. Za vsak slucaj sva sle se slikat, da se prepricava, da ni zlomljena. Eva pripoveduje, da so aparati za slikanje za odpis ter da jo sploh niso zascitili proti sevanju. Zdaj naju tu zadrzuje Evina noga in je ze z razlogom praviva, cas bo pokazal namen najinega dolgega postanka tu v Moshiju. Ziviva v veliki razkosni hisi, lodgu za turiste, katerega lastnik je American Michael, ki sem ga spoznala preko Johanne. Po kratki debati o tem kaj pocneva in kaksne sanje imava, sva Michaela cisto prevzeli in zato nama je prijazno ponudil zastonj prenocisce. V zameno sva mu pomagali pri pripravi zajtrkov za goste in bilo je prav zabavno. Naslednje dni sva nato skrbeli, da je vse potekalo tako kot mora potekati v cisto pravem hotelu. Vcasih je Michael odsel v Arusho in tako sva bili sami in sva se pocutili kot lastnici hise. Ko sva ze zaceli razmisljati, da bo potrebno iti naprej, me doleti huda slabost!! Bruham celo noc in cel dan, v sebe ne spravim prav nic, sploh nevem vec kaj naj bruham, kot le zolcno kislino!!! Se trudim, da spijem vsaj nekaj vode, da jo kasneje zbruham ha ha Eva je zelo zaskrbljena z mojim zdravjem in me nekako spravi v najblizjo bolnico, ki je bila na sreco le za vogalom ha ha kako pripravno! Po obicajnem postopku, pik v prstek in pregled krvi, ki pokaze, da imam malarijo! Uf! Tole pa ne bo zabavno. Po eni strani sem kriva sama, saj sem pred nekaj tedni nehala jemati Lariam, po katerem sem imela stranske ucinke, zato sem se tudi odlocila da jih preneham jesti. Ker zdravnik ugotovi, da sem ze zelo dehidrirana se odloci, da mi bodo dali infuzijo, da pride moje telo vsaj malce k sebi. Dobim se inekcijo v rit, proti bruhanju in nato se zacne lov na mojo kri ha ha… Okrog mene se nabere cela ekipa zdravnikov, saj nikomur ni uspelo v mojo zilo pravilno zapiciti igle, da bi pritekla kri. Vse zelo dobro prenasam in se se vedno smejim ter zabavam sestre in zdravnike. Zdaj res nevem ali je moja kri ze cisto posusena ali pa tile tu ne znajo kako se to pravilno dela. Vse je brez uspeha in zato mi dajo tablete ter posljejo domov pocivat. Ker se vedno bruham in seveda zbruham vsa zdravila, me Eva odlocno pelje nazaj v bolnico trdno prepricana, da jim tokrat mora ratat, drugace mi bo ona nasla pravo zilo s polno krvi ha ha ha… tole pa ne bo zabavno, da bo morala res Eva spikat po moji roki iiiii ok, toda ni panike, itak ne cutim nic vec, tako da me lahko prespikajo kolikor hocejo ha ha In smo ze nazaj v bolnici, ter zopet ekipa zdravnikov, zdaj se nekaj novih. Na veliko sreco, zopet po nekaj poizkusih koncno pritece moja kri. O kako sem jo bila vesela ha ha ha …in kapljice zacnejo kapljati v mojo zilo, drop drop drop… pocasi pocasi cela dva dneva in dve noci…zdravniki in sestre so zelo prijazni in se mi zdi, da so bili zelo ponosni, da imajo eno muzungu pri sebi. Med infuzijo dobim se kinin, ker zdravila itak niso mogla ostati v mojem zelodcu!!!! Ni ravno fajn, ker je to zelo mocno zdravilo, samo kaj cmo, zdaj sem cisto prepuscena njim in onemu zgoraj…Po dveh dneh odidem domov in se po parih dneh ze lahko sprehajam po ulicah Moshija. Vse zivo mi je hodilo po glavi, ko sem lezala v postelji, ter bila vsa omoticna od zdravil. Kot bi imela en uvid v moje poslanstvo, kdo sem in s kaksnim razlogom sem se rodila, kaj je namen mojega zivljenja tu na zemlji in kaj je moja vecna lucka srece, ki nikoli ne bo ugasnila. Vas zelo zanima? Verjamem, da vas matra firbc, toda ne povem, to razkrijem takrat, ko bo pravi cas zato. ha ha Vse ob pravem casu, pravijo

Zopet nazaj v lokalni svet, ulicno zivljenje Chagga ljudi. Ljudi, ki zivijo pod mogocnim Kilimanjarom. Zdaj sem ga videla ze veckrat ha ha in me je cisto ocaral, tako da naslednjic, ko pridem nazaj se 100% podam v njegovo blizino. Se mi kdo pridruzi?

Na ulicah sva spoznali zanimive ljudi, ocitno zopet prave, da naju ucijo. V lokalni trgovinici sva zaceli pogovor z zadrzano Indijko Jane. Toda takoj sva ji odprle srece z najino preprostostjo, smehom in navihanostjo. Jane naju je cisto prevzela in navdusila z Jainismom, njeno vero in nacinom zivljenja. Vso modrost in znanja, ki nama jih je predala v nekaj tednih, so nama bili tako blizu. Vedeli sva za Budizem in Hinduizem, kateremu sledi vecina Indijcev, toda za Jainism se prej nisva zanimali. Jainism je ena izmed najstarejsih ver na svetu in ni toliko znana zunaj Indije. Tudi v Indiji tej veri sledi le manjsina ljudi, nekje stiri milijone. Je predhodnica Hinduizma in Budizma. Jainism-ov vesolje je sestavljeno iz sestih elementov, od katerih je najbolj vazno “Zivljenje”. Jainisti verjamejo, da zivljenje ne obstaja le na drugih planetih, ampak tudi zunaj soncnega sistema. Vsako bitje ima duso. Ne samo clovek tudi zivali, drevesa, rastline, bakterije mikroskopski virusi. Je zivljenje tudi v blatu, vodi, zraku, ognju, in luci, katerega ne moremo videti z ocesom ali natancnim mikroskopom. Vsaka dusa je enaka in je neodvisna, vecna, neumrljiva in nevidna. Na koncu telo umre, toda dusa ne. Dusa se rearkarnira v drugo zivljenje. Nato se dusa non stop rearkarnira iz zviljenja v zivljenje dokler se ne osvobodi sebe od kroga rojstva in smrti. Ko se osvobodi oz. resi t.i. Moksha ali Nirwan, ni ji potrebno nikoli vec vstopiti v krog rojstva in smrti. In da doseze ta najvecji cilj Moksha, Jainism razlozi v Zakonu Karme in pokaze pot od Moksha.

Jane naju je tudi povabila k sebi domov in pokazala njen oltarcek za molitev in meditacijo. Pridruzili sva se ji tudi v templu pri njihovem obredu, kjer molijo mantre, besede, ki jih non stop ponavljajo, ter pojejo lepe pesmi. Na oltarju imajo kipce svojih bogov. Zadnji clovek, ki je dosegel Nirwan-je Lord Mahavir, 24-i zapovrstjo, ki je reorganiziral vero Janisma. Prvi je Lord Rishabhadev. Kar me je najbolj pritegnilo pri tej veri je to, da je Lord Mahavir rekel, da vsa ziva bitja si zasluzijo ziveti in ne umreti. Zato nihce nima pravice vzeti zivljenja nekomu drugemu. Zato ubijanje je najvecji greh. Tudi ubijanje zivali je za Jainism velik greh. Moramo spostovati vsa zivljenja na zemlji, saj je zviljenje dragoceno za vakogar. Zato ne samo “Zivi in pusti ziveti” ampak “Zivi in pomagaj drugim v zivljenju”. Vesolje je polno zivecih bitij, velikih in malih zato je nemogoce ziveti ne da bi ubili ali poskodovali kako bitje. Nekatera zivljenja so ubita ko pijemo in jemo hrano. Zato za Jainism bi bil ideal minimum ubijanja. In se in se bi lahko pisala o tej cudoviti veri, ki verjame v cloveka, v sebe, v vsakega posameznika, v druge…zdaj imam velko zeljo, da tej veri sledim in se o njej se vec poucim, saj sem prepoznala, da tako zivljenje zivim ze kar nekaj let…neverjetno v Afriki najdem vero, ki sem jo na nek nacin iskala ze od rojstva…

V Moshiju imava zdaj ze veliko prijateljev in ob cesti, kjer sva vsak dan pesacili v mesto, sva spoznali Msamya, umetnika, ki rise cudovite slike. Takoj naju je pritegnil s svojo karizmo in pripravljenostjo se pogajati o dobri ceni za slike, medtem ko so drugi bili zelo ponosni in trdno odloceni o svoji ceni. Msamy je oddajal energijo skromnosti, topline in prijaznosti. Svoje slike prodaja v eni izmed lesenih hisic, ki pa je edina brez strehe, tako da te cudovite slike pocasi unicuje dez in veter. Ker sva mu zeleli pomagati, sva od njega kupili slike, s to prodajo si bi lahko kupil novo streho, toda vse se je zapletlo. Njegov sef hisice je od ljubosumja popenil, saj je Msamy prodal veliko slik in v prihodnosti sva mu bili tudi pripravljeni pomagat. Z vso jezo je zacel metati njegove slike na prosto ter postavil Msamya pred hisico. Groza! Skokirani od takega pocetja, in sploh ne razumeva, saj bi pomagali tudi njegovemu sefu, da bi dobil novo streho. S Msamy-jem se nato pogovorimo, ter sosed iz sosednje hisice je takoj pripravljen sprejeti Msamy-ja pod njegovo streho, toda tudi tu bo moral placati delez od prodane slike. Za Msamya zeliva v prihodnje, da mu zgradiva njegovo hisico in bo on sef svoje hisice, ter bo on imel pod streho se druge umetnike. Z njim sva ostali v dobrem stiku in tam imava tudi ljudi, ki bodo Msamya obiskovali ter nama porocali o odnosih, ki se godijo v Makonde vasi.

Hisica v kateri ziviva nama je prirasla k srcu in res se pocutiva kot doma. Tako sva tudi izkoristili kuhinjo, saj prej nisva imeli moznosti kuhanja. Neko popoldne se odlociva, da narediva struklje, ki jih je Eva sanjala ze od mojega prihoda in tudi da presenetiva Michaela in njegova dva vrtnarja oz. skrbnika hise Omarija in Dawdi-ja se s slovensko tradicionalno hrano. Zelo sva morali improvizirati, saj nisva imeli osnovnih gospodinjskih pripomockov in tudi sircka tu ne poznajo, tako da sva dali kar malce mehkejsi sir in so bili tudi taki zelo zelo dobri :) V najino hisko sva povabili tudi sosednje otroke, katerim sva skuhali ugali kuhan v mleku potresen s cokolado v prahu. Zgledalo je tako kot nas gris, toda okus je bil malce drugacen. Ko bi lahko videli te namrscene otroske obraze in sramezljiv smeh, kako so pocasi nosili zlico k svojim ustom… ha ha… bi se nasmejali do solz. Hoteli so naju nauciti kako se pravilno kuha ugali, toda midve sva vztrajali, da je to slovenski ugali ha ha ha… Glavno je, da sva jih nasmejali in popestrili dan.

In nato se zadnji dnevi v Moshiju oz. stiri ure voznje ven iz mesta, natancno v Masajski vasici, v katero naju je povabil najin prijatelj Baraka, ki sva ga spoznali na ulicah Moshija. Baraka je masaj in svoj cas prezivlja v mestu, kjer hodi v solo in se uci anglescine ter obcasno kot nocni cuvaj his belcev, sluzi denar. Imeli sva res sreco, da sva ga spoznali, saj je fant, ki je zelo drugacen od drugih, izareva toplino, prijaznost in nikoli naju ni skusal prinesti okrog s kaksnim trikom, ki ga tu skusa izpeljati vecina. Zgodaj zjutraj smo se vsedli na matatu ter peljali do Arushe od tam smo morali presesti in vzeti drugi matatu, ki nas je pripeljal do prve vasice, kjer smo nato nakupili fasngo za Barakovo druzino (kruh, riz, ugali, fizol, itd.), kot darilo za dobrodoslico. Od tu smo nato poskakali na kamijoncek in se se kakih pol ure peljali po strmi cesti navzgor, skozi gozd in cudovito naravo. Nato smo koncno prispeli na kraj, kjer vsako soboto poteka masaji market in od tu je bilo potrebno se kakih 25 minut hoje, da smo prisli do Barakove masajske vasi. Noro, noro, noro, kraj me je spominjal na Ngorogoro krater, saj je bil kraj povsod okrog obdan s hiribi, na sredi pa se je razprostirala ravnina, kjer so se pasle krave in koze. Barakova druzina nas je prijazno sprejela. Obiskali sva tudi druge manjate in ker se je ze zvecerilo, je bilo v njej zelo temno, na sredi je tlel le ogenj. Tezko je bilo videti drug drugega, toda vseeno smo se zabavali in plesali masaji ples. Skakali po manjati in izpuscali nenavadne glasove, ter se smejali da je odmevalo dalec naokrog. Kmalu zatem so prisle kozice, tudi cisto male, ki so zapolnile manjato. Eva je vzela eno v narocje, toda masaji so rekli, da to ni dobro, ker se lahko navadi na ljudi in ne bo vec hotela biti del crede, tako da tega oni ne pocnejo! Aha. Toda vseeno Baraka pripoveduje, da ima eno kozo, ki mu je pri srcu in jo ima zelo rad, toda ze v drugem stavku pravi, ko bo prisel njen cas, ko jo bo zaklal in pojedel, ter se zacne na glas smejati… ha ha…

Zunaj so zarele zvezde, na nebu je sijal Southern cross - juzni kriz, ki se ga vidi le iz juzne poloble… bilo je carobno stati v masajski vasi, kjer je vladala tisina, sem ter tja se je slisal zvenket kravjega zvonca in meket koze, ter kak masaj, ki je privihtel mimo, ter povedal, da so zvezde in luna masajska nocna razsvetljava ha ha in smo se zopet smejali…in bil je ze cas za vecerjo, ki smo jo imeli v nasi manjati, kjer smo tudi prenocili. Za vecerjo smo imeli riz kuhan s krompirjem ter caj z mlekom. Noc je bila dolga, saj nisem mogla zatisniti ocesa. Kot prvo so me po celem telesu grizle bolhe. Cutila sem jih prav povsod, vsak njihov gib, kot da se hocejo zalezti pod mojo kozo… oh…zelo neprijeten obcutek…nato se je se malce ohladilo in kanga s katero sem bila pokrita je bila zelo tanka. Zunaj je bilo slisati sepet vetra in zvenket kravjih zvoncev, misli so sinile na Slovenske gore in na pastirske koce ter pastirje, kjer sem prezivljala moje poletne dni v druzbi prijaznih in skromnih ljudi. Bilo je kot doma…stopim ven v temno vas, nad seboj zagledam luno in sibajoce oblake, razprem roke, vdihnem svezi zrak in se pocutim zelo svobodno, obcutek je tak, da je svet na moji dlani :) nepozabni obcutki zavedno…

Sveze jutro, pripravlja se k dezju, crni oblaki se kazejo izza hriba…vsi pomeckani in neprespani se odpravimo na krajsi sprehod po masajski zemlji, med koruzo in polji…pojemo peceno koruzo, spijemo caj ter kislo mleko… ter nato obcudujemo masaje, morane pri njihovem plesu… bilo je zelo zabavno, saj niso uprizorili predstave za turiste, bili so to kar so, preprosti fantje, ki se radi zabavajo in hecajo…tako, da je bil ta ples iz srca, izpadel je prav smesno in vsi skupaj smo se zelo nasmejali…

Nato slovo od masajske stevilcne druzine ter direktno na masaji market, kjer so si privoscili peceno kozo. Skupaj z Evo so se posedli v krogu, v skritem koticku, saj morane pri jedi mesa ne smejo videti zenske, midve z Evo sva bili izjema ha ha oz. jaz sem jih le gledala, snemala in fotkala pri deljenju mesa, ki so ga zmazali kot lacni psi. Zelo presenetljivo, sploh me niso obsojali oz. pretirano sprasevali zakaj ne jem mesa, so zelo dobro pouceni glede vegetarijanstva. V tem pogledu so me pozitivno presenetili. Baraka je celo uposteval mojo zeljo, da za moj prihod ne smejo zaklati koze, kot je v obicaju, in res tega niso stroili. Po marketu zopet na kamijoncek in viiii voznja na prtljazniku, veter v laseh in cudovita narava…

O masajski kulturi vam ne bi rada prevec podrobno pisala, saj je Eva na zacetku najine poti o tem kar podrobno napisala. To si lahko preberete na zacetku najinih postov (Eva pri masajih). In tudi razmisljam, da napisem podroben clanek za kaksno revijo, tako da boste vec o tem lahko prebrali v njej. Njihova kultura in nacina zivljenja je zelo zanimiva, ceprav pocasi bledi, saj tehnologija in razvoj posega v njihovo okolje. Vsak masaj ima ze mobitel, tako da sva z njimi od zdaj naprej v dobrem kontaktu preko sms-ov ali mailov. Poznajo zgodbo Bele masajke in vsak masaj bi si zelel se eno belo zensko ha ha ce bi si zeleli poroke bi jo takoj priredili za naju, lahko bi imeli skupaj enega moza in ko sem rekla ce bi tudi midve lahko imeli po dva ali tri moze, so odlocno odkimali no no no possible, ni mozno!!! Vprasali so naju, ce sva ze kje na svetu videli zenske, ki bi lahko imele vec mozov??? Njihovo delovanje je podobno zivalskemu, nagonsko vedenje, posnemanje iz naravnega okolja, ki jih obdaja. Moski so lahko zelo pozorni do vsake zenske. Tako je bil Baraka zelo prijazen do obeh, obe je brez problema prijel za roko in smo skupaj hodili po ulicah Moshija. Nic nenavadnega, tu se celo moski drzijo za roko in ne mislit, da so geji. Gre le za izkazovanje prijateljske ljubezni. Vsi so bratje in sestre, ki bodo brezpogojno poskrbeli drug za drugega. Za ljubosumje ni prostora, ker ce ga gojis te lahko ubije! Z Evo sva se tako naucili deliti to prijateljsko pozornost od Barake do naju….in se mnogo vec…

Priznajte svoje slabe lastnosti in jih pustite oditi…osvobodite duso in podzavest, vsi smo eno in drug brez drugega zivljenje bi bilo prazno. Odpuscajmo skupaj in delimo sreco na vsakem koraku…

Simona