MOZAMBIQUE

We arrived to the border of our next, 6^th country on our way, país de MOZAMBIQUE, a country that has a coastline that extends for nearly 3000 km. Mozambique is one of the few countries of Africa where Portuguese is an official language. This country is besides Malawi one of the poorest countries of Africa and in the world. Mozambique’s life expectancy and infant mortality rates are both among the worst ranked in the world.

By now we changed currency in every country that we’ve been to, Mozambique is no exeption. Here they use meticais and an obverse side of a coin for 1000 meticais has almost the same coat of arms as the one we used to have in our former country, SFRJ (Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia). The only difference is that SFRJ had six torches surrounded by wheat and burning together in one flame which represented brotherhood and unity of the six republic forming Yugoslavia and on top of it red star (represent socialism). Mozambique has the same red star on top of it and beside wheat the coat of arms has also sugar cane, inside of both is an AK-47 (defence), a hoe (agriculture) and a book (education), plus red sun representing building a new life.

Mozambique was explored by Vasco da Gama in 15th century and later on inhabited by Portuguese and became independent in 1975. Afterwards they had a civil war for 15 years (1977-1992).

And now, enough general information about the country…I must say as I love Brasil, I expected quite similar atmosphere in this country. I have no problems with Portuguese, so our communication with people was good.

This time we were really good at obtaining visa, coz we got it already in Mozambique embassy in southern city of Malawi, Blantyre. There was no problem and this time visa was really cheap. We decided to travel a long way through Mozambique to a coastal place named Vilanculos. Already a little bit tired we prepared ourselves for a few day journey. We took a little van to go all the way to the border of Mozambique. On the border we had to change the currency, we still had some Malawian kwatcha. We were walking around trying to see where is Mozambiquean side of the border, we had been just through Malawian side so far. So we asked a white guy in a parked jeep outside how far is the entrance border of Mozambique. As he was there also for the first time he had no idea, but told us he can take us there. He just waited for us to change the money and after that we sat down on a cosy seats in his car and together with his local business friend went towards the border. This is how we got to know Monty, a man from South Africa, who lived his life already in Zimbabwe and now in Mozambique. He is working in agriculture business, trying to advise people and companies how to produce crops. First we thought he will just take us to the border about 6 km away, but when he heard about our direction, he invited us to travel with him all the way to his home, Chimoio, halfway to our destination. We were really lucky to meet him as traveling with him was so easy for us, so comfortable, cheap  and fast Thank you Monty, you helped us a lot! This is how our journey through Mozambique has started, with lots of good vibes and good luck! Huuh, we were aready high, so many things just happened in our favour already , that’s how life should be lived…to believe in good and be positive every single day…things easily happen like that

After few hours of driving we came to a bridge over river Zambezi, 4^th largest river in Africa which spreads through 6 countries. Afterwards we stopped in Tete where we had after a long time European kind of lunch. It looked like this…when I stepped out of a car there were street kids begging for money…then we went to a (for Africa) very fancy restaurant with lots of different food, with different types of bread, cakes, salads, coffees…everything was just there…we were quite surprised…everything so nice and neat, people seemed half European…food was good and so was the bill, prices like in Europe…when we stepped outside of a restaurant came to me a little girl, she was obviously living on the street….as I didn’t give her any money, she wanted to take few empty plastic bottles that she saw in Montys car…we kindly gave her those and she seemed very happy and she thanked us many times…this is how kids try to survive, they try to sell those bottles…what a childhood, comparing to mine which was with nothing to worry about…slowly we went out of Tete towards a coastal side of Mozambique. When we drove away from Tete to nearby villages, the situation got completely different…all that luxury turned into huge poverty…outside of the city people live in really small huts, the smallest me and Simona seen on our way, they must have about 2 square meters of space, kids were poorly dressed, trying to reach their hands to cars that were passing by…they though that someone will actually stop and give them something…anything…of course you would love to help, but situations like this never end in Africa…there’s just too many kids that need basic care, food and clothes…or better lots of love!….you just can’t save the world, although it would be great to have such power!

…on our way we passed a funeral caravan …many people in the middle of the street, singing and carrying the coffin, women at the back were crying and two men in front quite drunk with bottle of something strong in their hands…they were waving with their hands, not really in balance, ahhaha…trying to direct cars that were passing by….

In the evening we arrived to Chimoio, Monty took us to the first ATM to get some Mozambique currency (meticais) and later to a nice hostel named Pink Papaya, where we stayed for one night in our own trailer, this was our ‘room’ :)… what a great idea, it was really nicely equipped….we slept just few hours, because the next day we had to wake up at 5 a.m. to catch a van to a crossroad outside of town…from there we were supposed to get a transport to Vilanculos, our next destination on the coast….we were walking along the road for some time…then we asked people standing beside the road when does the bus arrive and they replied that they actually don’t know…could be in an hour or five hours or not even today… there is no bus schedule, they just wait beside the road….just when we decided to wait beside the road with them, 3 other travelers called us from the other side of the road to join them and travel with a huge truck…First I was a little bit skeptical, is this safe…but another second we were already running on the other side of the street, climbing the stairs to a truck’s cabin…it looked this could be a great experience! As I went in the last one, I had the best seat in the cabin - beside the driver with a great view of the surrounding :)…happy times…and a driver was really nice and talkative….he spends most of his time on the street, driving cargo through many different countries of Africa….as his truck was really overloaded, we were moving really slowly…with 4 passengers at the back, from different countries of the world, with interesting and funny conversations, the journey didn’t take ages…as it seemed we will need for about a week to get to Vilanculos, ahaha, coz we drove really really slowly, I was surprised when early in the afternoon we were already in Vilanculos…so again we were lucky with the transport, cheap and comfortable ride :)…thumbs up! Our driver stopped the truck again on crossroads, of course he had to go his way, not towards the beach as we planned…so we said goodbye and me and Simona were trying to find a small van to take us to Vilanculos, a little town on the beach…uuff, but these Africans are sometimes full of shit…the man in charge of that van was trying to rip us off, ahahha…as we are good in bargaining and we already knew the price of a transport to the beach, he shocked us with a really high price…like really high,…ahahaha…we took our backpacks out of a van, because when you come close to the van they just take your stuff and start putting it into the vehicle…coz this man was so determined about his high price, we were even more determined not to go with him…we rather hitchhike…there is for sure going to be another opportunity for us to go to the beach…we took our backpacks and started to walk away, when this guy changed his mind…we gave him lecture about how wrong it is to make a difference in price just because of a colour of the skin…when the van was full, we start driving to the beachside…but what happens next, ahhaa…halfway there a driver stops the van and says that me and Simona need to pay more, otherwise we need to go out right now…..we were surprised by how greedy they were, we started to laugh and said that OF COURSE, we will pay, ahhaha…we finally arrived somewhere close to our destination…we gave them a little coin of money and left the van…they expected more, but with that kind of behaviour, I don’t think so….

We needed to find a place to sleep, so we were walking around small town through sandy paths when the sun was shining properly…really tired we bumped in a dormitory of a backpackers place…it felt good to have a ‘home’ again, where you can relax, wash yourself and have needed peace. Vilanculos is a place with long and sandy beaches where you could just lie around all day long and do nothing….but that’s not what we wanted…one day of rest was more than enough for us to regain energy for next adventures, things just started to happen again…..Already in mountains of Malawi (Livingstonia) we’ve seen a Mozambiquean magazine with a fantastic house, that I felt it as my dream house…I asked owner of that place if I can take that magazine, but as it was not allowed, I took a picture of a picture of that house in that magazine to remember exactly what kind of a house do I want :)…But what happened here was amazing…They had the same magazine here in our hostel…of course with the same house inside..hmmm, this is starting to get interesting… I started to read about that house and I was shocked when I read that this house is in exactly the same place where we were at that time…in Vilanculos! ..that was the end of our ‘resting’, we needed to find that house!..our next mission, hahahaa….the only information we got from the waiter of our hostel was, that this house is on the opposite side of beach resort….We tried our luck and just went towards the center of this little town, to find a transport to that place..just when we got closer to the crossroad, one kid selling airtime for telephone on the street stopped us and asked us what do we need…in the moment when we said to him, that we need a transport to that resort, a vehicle (pick up truck) stopped on the crossroad with the name of that resort on the door….uau!!!, that was fast, we just started to laugh, couldn’t believe what was going on and run to the driver and asked  if we can go with him…of course there was no problem, first we went into the market and later to that resort….and my dream house was standing next to it

We came closer to that house with open doors everywhere, few people around, there were also workshops for local women to do jewelry out of beads..and everything seemed really open and warm…In that house live Snowy nad Sandy, a couple from South Africa that traveled the world, have been working in areas you can only imagine, from cleaning, cooking, selling….they took any job available…later they decided to stay in Mozambique where they made that house out of wood and clay, with a straw roof…in warm yellow colours, so nice and so spacious. They made it by themselves..and the interior is really amazing….everything made out of natural materials, everything so simple…their bath is outside of the house, so they take a bath under the sky, under the stars….beautiful! The couple is so nice, they showed us all the rooms in the house, there were two dogs and a cat walking around it and few tourist that came to visit them…no problem if they have few guests per day …such a great attitude! Afterwards Sandy took us back to town, coz she went to the airport to pick up few friends…everything went so smooth that I remembered Paulo Coelho’s philosophy: “when you really want something to happen, the whole universe conspires so that your wish comes true”. SO TRUE

Time for moving has come, this time to Tofo Bay. At 5 a.m. we went on a van towards Tofo Bay…journey was long and in the late afternoon we came to a place where we needed to continue our journey on a boat. The only option was a boat, because it’s the fastest way to get to Inhambane and from there to Tofo Bay. If the sea is still, you can go to Inhambane by boat, otherwise with a bus. So….it was starting to get dark and we were in the middle of nowhere, didn’t know exactly where to go, when a guy approached us and helped us to show us the way and accompanied us to the boat…The boat was quite full of people, too much people on board of course, which is normal for Africa …when the boat was completely full, we started to move….the waves were quite big in my opinion, the water was entering the boat from top….people starting to get wet, ahaha..but its ok, its warm and everything will be just fine :)…people were relaxed, laughing, talking, some went to work on the other side of the bay…but after some time we stopped in the middle of the sea….what happened, did we run out of fuel or what?…no?…so what?…..why aren’t we moving??….c’mon, somebody tell me! :)…..well, the boat got stucked on the spot because of the low water …people were not worried at first, some of them shouted they want the money back…me and Simona were just observing what was going on….in the dark, stucked in the middle of the sea, with crowd of mozambiquean people, ahahahaa…….what an experience!…people were at times silently aware of our situation, later they were laughing about the same situation…when the driver didn’t succeed in turning the boat with an engine, two guys decided to go in the water and help to move the boat with their own hands and force…one of them was in a dress, with a white shirt on…he just started to take his nice clothes off and went to help the other guy who was already in the water, just in an underwear…this is how people help people around here…this guy could just sit there like everybody else and do nothing….he payed a ticket for the trip, his work was not to save the situation….but he did…..after half an hour or so, we started to move again…relaxed that now we are on the right track, we finally reached our destination, Inhambane. Because the hour was already late, we needed to sleep in that place…in a hostel named Olinda, which has the same name as a town near Recife in Brasil where I spent a lot of my time….hmmm, why everything reminds me so much of Brasil

The next day we finally arrived to Tofo Bay, a beautiful place on a sandy beach, where you can see whales coming out of the water. Many things about animal life in waters we found out from a man we met the same second we stepped off the bus. His name is Ivory. What a coincidence (or not really, ahhha), this guy was staying in the same place where we wanted to sleep. So he showed us the way. He is from England, a cook by profession, but the last 27 years he lived in different countries of Africa. He is a master in diving, this is how he earns money around here, he teaches people how to dive safely. He became also a biologist, not through official education, but he learned everything by himself. He has a great knowledge of marine life and life of mangrove, he also takes people to mangrove and he was attending in many documentaries. That’s the way to go! Why would you do the same thing that you studied all your life, ahaha…this especially sounds good to me as I am interested in too many things

He was telling us interesting stories about the whales and mating of octopus. He was talking about water animals with such passion, that thrilled me…huuh, I want also to start diving, although I am afraid of the water pressure under the sea….but this sounds so interesting! He told us how do octopuses mate, the story was very emotional… Octopuses prefer to live alone and come together only during the mating season. Male octopus starts to make a beautiful garden for her woman from little shiny stones, little shells…He is making and preparing this garden with his passionate heart with all the details for weeks, until is beautiful enough for his mate. After everything is prepared, he brings his darling to his lovely garden…where they sit first quite far from each other and then in a very shy way, male starts to become closer..and closer…in a very humble and shy way…probably blushing while doing it :)..he touches her with his ‘arms’, gently hugs her and so on…trying to come closer…they change their colours together and enjoy the mating part…..how beautiful….but when they start to mate properly everything is done really fast…male gives his sperm in a modified arm under the female mantle…Female change colour to black, sprays the man with an ink and goes away….What an interesting life of octopus!

Ivory told us many interesting things also about sperm-whales, they are the biggest toothed animals and can grow up to 20 metres, their weight is about 4 tons. They have a cosmopolitan character, they are spreaded across the world’s oceans. They feed themselves in the open sea of polar waters, far away from the coast, but they come to tropic seas to mate. In tropic waters they also jump out of the water and make amazing water dance. Nature is just magnificent!

In the place where we slept, I survived the encounter with rats during the night. We were sharing a dorm together with Ivory on double beds. I was sleeping on the bottom one, Simona on top…and during one night I freaked out when I sensed that there is one animal lying with its fur beside my arm, and when I moved, another one run away from top of my legs…aaaaa, ahahhaa…that was not so funny, ahahha…I couldn’t sleep for quite some time…had a mosquito net over my head and tried to stuck it below my mattress, so there wont be no space for rats to come back…Simona was laughing at me, telling me to come and sleep with her on top, ahhaa…and Ivory didn’t mind, he was snoring and enjoying his beauty sleep, ahaha…. I just wanted to share also that part of traveling with all of you, ahahha…rats might happen every now and then

In few days we decided to go to Mozambique capital, Maputo. You can sense a latino atmosphere in this town, music is a mixture of brasilian and African…and the language is just beautiful We tried to get good contacts of any kind of organizations also here, but as there was none, we just relaxed ourselves and try to go with a flow…In the evening we went into cultural center to see a theatre play, which was really good and after it we had a great concert at the same place…but when we came back to our hostel, in our dorm, there was a guy lying next to our double bed, saying: ‘Hi girls!’…and we were shocked…we were about 700 km from Tofo Bay and here he was…our friend Ivory again, ahahhahaa….that’s really crazy!..and we met each other in the same hostel among plenty in big Maputo! Then he explains us that he decided to leave Mozambique and go to South Africa, because his ‘African’ father died…and he was moving to South Africa with everything he had…a backpack and few bags of diving equipment…that’s it!..no complications…we all know how little we need to live this life to the fullest!…the less you have, the better, less attached you are to things, places…and even people….the better….people who travel will understand what am I talking about….Ivory knows that very well and his next destination after South Africa is going to be Egypt…he will pack his few things and just go there, explore and LIVE…..complete freedom, no limitations!!!  WHAT A LIFE!

“Just living is not enough… One must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.”
~ Hans Christian Andersen ~

With lots of love,

eva

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…Fale Portugues (govoris Portugalsko)…je bilo vprasanje na vsakem koraku v najini naslednji drzavi potovanja, Mozambiku. O zgodovini drzave se ne bom prevec razpisala, le to, da so tu bili kolonisti Portugalci in ne Britanci, zato je uradni jezik Portugalscina. Pestile so jo stevilne vojne, kot tudi drzavljanska, ki je trajala 15 let. Za Mozambik pravijo, da je dezela smeha, pa da vidimo

Tokrat na meji nisva imeli nobenega problema, saj sva si vizo zrihtali ze v Malawiju, na Mozambiski ambasadi. Bilo pa je nekoliko tezje zopet potovati vse od severa Mozambika in vse do najinega naslednjega postanka Villanculosa, ki lezi ob morju. Psihicno pripravljeni, da zmoreva tole potovanje, ki bo trajalo nekje tri dni, se vsedeva na busek vse do meje. Po obicajnih formalnostih na Malawijski meji je nato bilo potrebno priti do Mozambiske meje, ki pa je bila oddaljena dobrih 6 km. Malce se motoviliva in tocno neveva kje lahko zmenjava se zadnje Kvače (Malawijski denar), zato vprasava prvo vozilo, katerega voznik je bil beli clovek. Prijazno naju usmeri v smer menjalnice, ter pravi, da lahko naju pocaka, da zamenjava denar, ter tako zapelje do meje. Ja itak :)  hitro veseli zamenjava denar in nato horuk v veliki prostorni in  udobni jeep :)….. viiii in smo sli.

Monty prijazni voznik iz Juzne Afrike, ki je nekaj casa zivel tudi v Zimbabweju in zdaj v Mozambiku, kjer ima veliko farmo krompirja in svetovalnico, kako pravilno saditi krompir, da bo kar najbolje obrodil. Zraven njega je sedel njegov pomocnik, domacin iz Mozambika. Zadaj pa midve, na vsaki strani okna, udobno namesceni opazujeva mimobezeco pokrajino. Nato meja in zopet formalnosti in ze ko sva mislili, da bova morali nekje najti busek, se prijazni Monty ponudi, da lahko z njim potujeva vse do sredine Mozambika, kjer je doma. To je cisto noro, prisparali bova na casu in denarju, kar je seveda zelo super in smo zopet sli viiiiii… cist noro, kako se je zacelo odvijati tole potovanje po Mozambiku…

Prispeli smo po nekaj urah voznje v prvo vecje mesto Tete, kjer smo se okrepcali v zelo fini restavraciji. Vse cisto, spedenano v nulo, na polickah razni prigrizki, tortice, sendvici, kava itd… prvi utis…to je Mozambik…:) lep, zelo na visokem nivoju in tudi cene so bile temu primerne, prevec visoke za najine denarnice!!! Nato zopet hop v avto in nadaljujemo voznjo. Ze za prvim ovinkom mene dobesedno sezuje! Prbije me direktno v srce! Tisti blisc, ki smo ga doziveli ravno prej se je spremenil v KAJ??? Male hiske dva kvadratna metra prostora, pokrite s slamnato streho, povsod okrog rdeckasti pesek, mali otrocki, bosi in nekaj cunj na sebi,… prvic v celi Afriki, da sem zacutila taksno veliko razliko, taksen velik razkorak med bogatimi in ravnimi, le korak oddaljeni pa nimajo skoraj nic! Otrpela sedim v avtu in gledam skozi okno…sploh nevem ali sem zalostna ali le zamisljena! Zdi pa se mi, da sem kot pribita na sedez in me bo res tezko premakniti se kakih par ur!
Pokrajina siba mimo okna, lepa je, cudovita je, nekje zelo suha, tudi nacrtno pozgani travniki in gozdovi, za boljso rast novih rastlin… zdaj se ze navadim na vse te male hiske, katerih nisem videla v celi Afriki, tu so res veliko manjse kot prej v drugih drzavah. Vidi se, da je ta del zelo reven. Ob cesti stojijo otroci z iztegnjeno roko, ter skusajo ustaviti mimovozece avtomobile, da bi dobili kak dinar ali stvar, vodo ali pac karkoli samo da nekaj je. Srecamo se gruco ljudi, ki na ramenih nosijo trugo, zadaj vidim jokajoce se zenske, spredaj pa hodita dva moska, nekako levo desno, ter v roki drzita steklenico necesa ocitno mocnega, saj je videti, da jima je ze kar dobro stopilo v glavo! Mahata avtomobilom ter usmerjata promet.
Ustavimo se, da preckamo most in ko pogledam na desno skozi moje okno zagledam nabodene spizme, misi ali karkoli ze so, neki plazilci se s svojo kosmato kozo!! Bljaki, zame, toda za njih dobra hrana!

Pozno zvecer le prispemo v Chimoio, kjer nama Monty zrihta prenocisce v hostlu v srediscu mesta. Za transport za drugi dan pa se bova morali znajti kar sami, saj jutri ne pelje avtobus do Villanculosa. Ah ni problema, Monty naju oskrbi z dobrimi informacijami, tako da veva kje bova poiskali prevoz. Zahvaliva se mu za lepo in prijetno voznjo, za vso prijaznost ter mu zazeliva sreco. Tudi on je bil vesel, da naju je spoznal in tako povabil, ce se se kdaj mudiva v njegovi drzavi, da ga morava sigurno obiskati Seveda Monty!

Noc prespiva v manjsi prikolici ha ha, ki je del hostla. Portugalsko sicer ne znam in imam sreco, da jo moja Eva obvlada :)Nekaj se ze zmenim, kaksne besede so podobne Spanscini in jih  nekako povezem, sicer pa imam zelo dober posluh oz. obvladam govorico telesa, tako da vecino casa kar vem o cem govorijo oz. kaj hocejo od mene. Se jo bo pa treba pocasi zacet kar ucit! Jezik mi je ze zelo dolgo casa zelo vsec, tako da z velikim veseljem. Hm hm… Fale Portugues…

Dobro jutro, zgodaj zjutraj ob petih, vstaneva odideva na mali busek vse do glavnega krizisca, kjer je lazje dobiti avtobus ali kako mimoidoce vozilo. Po krajsi hoji ob cesti le vprasava ce je tu mozno dobiti avtobus. Mimoidoci ljudje pravijo da je, toda nevedo kdaj bo avtobus prisel mimo, lahko da cakamo eno uro ali pa stiri. Aha tole pa je kar razlika! Se ne premisliva dobro, naju trije popotniki iz razlicnih drzav povabijo ce greva z njimi v tovornjak in da si delimo stroske, ki jih zahteva voznik. Ja itak, tole bo fajna avantura! Eva je sicer malce zadrzana in se kar obotavlja ali bi sla gor ali ne… zato jaz pogumno splezam notri in Eva se nato udobno namesti na prvem sedezu zraven voznika, odkjer ima razprostrani razgled na vse strani. Mi stirje pa se stlacimo zadaj in uzivamo v zelo zelo pocasni voznji ha ha Ce bomo se danes prisli v Villanculos bo veliko veselje, saj tale tovornjak je preobtezen in zato ne more voznik stopiti po gasu… zato se raje sprostimo ter uzivamo v zelvji voznji ha ha….zabave je bilo veliko…

No ja, pa smo le prispeli. Na kriziscu nas vrze ven in nato se nekaj minutk z malim buskom do obale. Toda tile Mozambicani mi na prvi utis niso prav nic vsec! Dobro veva o ceni, katero morava placati do obale, toda voznik vztraja o 4x visji ceni!!! Ni sans, vztrajne sva in izstopiva iz buska, ne bodo z nama tako ravnali. No in nato se premisli in naju vseeno vzame notri. Toda kaj, ko nama sredi poti, sredi nicesar ustavi in rece da morava placati vec, drugace naj greva kar ven!!! Groza! Pa tole nama res prav nic ni vsec! Nekako se zmenimo o malce visji ceni, jaz pa mu na koncu kar prikimam, ja ja bova placali, in Evi pravim ja pa kaj se ha ha… na koncu sva res placali le se kovancek vec, ter popokali najina ruzaka in sle same poiskat zeljeno destinacijo, hostl kjer bova prenocili. Na poti do hostla naju ze obleta mladina, ter ponuja vse zivo, vstaviva se da kupiva se sadje, katerega zopet zelijo prodati po 4x vecji ceni… ni sans, trmaste bova raje lacne kot, da kupiva tako drago sadje!!! Koncno hostl in bum na posteljo, zmatrani rabiva mir in pocitek!

Villanculos obmorsko mestece, ki vabi z dolgo pesceno plazo, kjer bi se clovek najraje zleknil in vrgel vse stiri od sebe ter delal prav nic ha ha…. midve z Evo pa kljub temu, da rabiva vsaj en dan pocitka, ne storiva tega, ter slediva znamenjam, ki nama jih kaze pot… Ze v Malawiju se je Eva zagledala v eno hisko, ki je bila naslikana v eni izmed revij. Jaz ji nisem posvecala prav velike pozornosti, saj sem rekla, da tako hisko ima tudi eden v Sloveniji in da jo lahko greva tja pogledat. Zato pozabiva na hisko. Toda zdaj zopet Eva v reviji zagleda to hisko in ne da ji miru, da ne bi zacela brati kje sploh je. In ne boste verjeli ta hiska je tu v Villanculosu ha ha … zato ne moreva vreci vse stiri od sebe, zato je potrebno iti v raziskovanje kje je ta pravljicna hiska… in sva sle, se prepustili toku. Stopiva na cesto, da bi nasle prevozno sredstvo, ki naju bi popeljajo do tja.. toda hm v katero smer???… pristopi fantek in vprasa kam greva danes, ko ze pomislim, oh ne spet tezit in nama sledit, mi drobni glasek rece vprasaj in ze v istem trenutku bleknem kam bi rade sle… in fantek se obrne, ter pokaze z roko na mimoidoce vozilo in rece: «Ta avto gre tja«…avto se vstavi, da bo preckalo cesto in to midve izkoristiva ter steceva tja, ter vprasava ce gre do Snowy in Sandy…seveda grem in tudi napis na avtu z velikimi crkami da nama vedeti, da je res pravi ha ha… lahko receva kaksno nakljucje, lahko pa je to dokaz, ce si nekaj res mocno zelimo to tudi dobimo :) ha ha

Snowy in Sandy imata cudovito hisico narejeno z naravnimi in recikliranimi materiali. Pokrita pa je s slamo. Detajli so res nekaj posebnega. Les in glina, ter tople barve naredita prijeten prostor. V zgornjem prostoru imata manjso trgovinico z drobnimi izdelki, katere delajo lokalne zenske in s tem jim omogocata prezivetje. Kaj vse lahko naredi cloveska roka, kako enostavno in uporabno. Turisti jih radi obiskujejo, saj sta bila vcasih tudi onedva velika popotnika in sta se na potovanjih prezivljala z marsicem. Po ogledu se Sandy ponudi, da naju lahko zapelje nazaj v mesto, saj je na poti na letalisce. Kako prilcno vse skupaj. Hisica naju je zelo prevzela in v prihodnosti si tudi midve zeliva narediti kaj podobnega.

Cas za naprej, nasljednji postanek Tofo Bay. Zopet voznja v nabasanem busku. Ura je ze pozno popoldne in sonce gre pocasi ze za obzorje. Tofo Bay pa je oddaljen se par urc voznje. Prijazni fant pristopi in nama zeli pomagati, saj vidi, da se vrtiva v krogu in neveva kje nadaljevati pot. Pospremi naju vse do colnov, ki gredo na drugo stran. Pravi, da je to najhitrejsa pot do najine destinacije, ce zeliva po kopnem bo trajalo se celi dan. Ja in kaj nama ostane drugega, kot da se ukrcava na nabasan mal colnicek, ki ga voda premetava sem ter tja. Kaj kmalu izplujemo in mrak je ze tu, ter veter na sredini zacne vse mocneje prematavati nas colnicek. Priznam na trenutke sem pomislila tudi na to, da se lahko prekucnemo in seveda kako bova midve z Evo resile vso najino prtljago ha ha… Toda ostajam skulirana in mi premetavanje ne povzroca slabosti, kot ponavadi. Voda sprica v nas colnicek vse dokler se ne ustavimo, toda saj nismo prispeli do obale, smo na sredini morja!!?? Je zmanjkalo bencina? Ha ha nasedli smo ha ha… Sofer se skusa z vso silo odlepiti od dna, premikamo se za centimeter, na colnu rata prepir, en cez drugega vpijejo v Portugalscini!!! Vprasava, ce je to obicajno, da se takole nasede in dobiva odgovor, da se jim je to zgodilo prvic! Oooo prvic!? Hm…kaj nam ostane, kot da ostanemo mirni in cakamo na pomoc ali da se nekako sami skusamo resiti. In traja in traja zunaj pa ze cista tema! Nekaj moz se zrtvuje, ter slece lepe obleke, zaviha rokave ter se podajo v vodo, da porinejo barko nazaj v globine. Ljudje se nekako umirijo, na trenutke nastane cista tisina, nato zopet kratek smeh in mozje pridno potiskajo barko. Se mi zdi, da je vse skupaj trajajo celo vecnost, izgubila sem obcutek za cas, toda uspelo nam je oz. jim je ha ha ter smo zapluli naprej, po drugi poti, vse okrog do nasega koncnega cilja. V Inhambane smo prispele prepozno, zato sva morali tu prenociti ter sele naslednje jutro oditi naprej proti Tofo Bay.

Cudotiva pescena in zelo dolga plaza, s pogledom na odprto morje, kjer lahko z dobrim ocesom opazis kite, kako se mecejo ven iz morja ter tolcejo ob vodo s svojimi velikimi plavutmi. In to sem tudi dozivela. Z obale kjer sem cakala soncni zahod sem opazila skok enega izmed kitov, ki je ravno skocil iz vode ter zamahnil z repom. Nato sem jih se dobre 20 minut opazovala kako so plavali ob obali in nato na odprto morje. Mogocne zivali, tako zanimive, da bi jih lahko gledala in gledala. O podvodnem svetu sva izvedeli se veliko vec, saj sva imeli veliko sreco, da sva ze ko sva prispeli v Tofo, natancno, stopili iz busa na pesek, spoznali Ivory-a.

On naju je tudi pospremil do zeljenega hostla, kjer je po nakljucju ali z razlogom spal tudi on ha ha Po poklicu kuhar, ki prihaja iz Anglije, ki je zivel v Južni Afriki dobrih trideset let in zdaj pet let v Mozambiku, se že dobrih trideset let ukvarja s potapljanjem. Podvodni svet nama je tako zelo priblizal in pricaral na pravljicen nacin, da sva bile tako zelo navduseni, da bi se sle potapljati se isto sekundo.
Dvorjenje hobotnic je nekaj tako lepega in custvenega, da nevem ce znamo ljudje kaj tagega ha ha Moski spol najprej iz najlepsih skoljkic in svetlecih kamenckov zgradi hisico. Poskrbi za vse detalje in to lahko traja tedne, dokler ni cisto zadovoljen z zgrajenim. Nato pripelje svojo drago, ter ji razkaze njegovo hisico zgrajeno samo zanjo. Skupaj se vsedeta zraven ter se zacne osvajanje. S svojimi lovkami jo nezno objema, se dotika, jo boza in skupaj spreminjata barve. Ivory tocno ve katera barve pomeni kaj. Jaz  pa sem ze malce pozabila, mislim, da rdeca pomeni, da ji je nerodno in ko je zelena pomeni, da je pripravljena, da jo je koncno osvojil. In paritev se zacne in ja ne mislite da tudi tole traja in traja ha ha tega pa je v hipu konec in kaj hitro se samica spremeni v crno barvo ter s crnilom posprica samca, ter izgine ha ha… in potem tako cuteca zival kaj velikokrat se znajde na kroznikih… raje ne mislim!!!
In se na kratko o kitih, teh mogocnih ogromnih zivalih. Kiti glavaci, ki tehtajo 4 tone in merijo v dolzino 12 do 16 metrov. Hranijo se le v polarnih vodah, dalec stran od obal, tam na sirnem odprtem morju. V tropske vode se pridejo le pariti in kotiti. Skakanje iz vode uprizarjajo le v tropskih vodah. In jih je prav cudovito opazovati. Ivory naju je poucil o razlicnem metanju iz vode, od zamahov z repom, s plavutjo, vrtenjem, metanjem nazaj in se bi lahko nastevala, skratka uprizorijo pravi morski ples.

Iz Tofo Bay sva nato odpotovali do glavnega mesta Mozambika, Maputa. Kjer sva zopet skusali najti kaksen kontakt za sirotisnice ali organizacije, toda neuspesno. Mesto je preveliko in ocitno nama ni namenjeno, da naletiva na pravo osebo! Zato se prepustiva toku in se ne obremenjujeva prevec. Zvecer si privosciva malce glasbe in gledalisca na prostem. Sicer je bilo vse v Portugalscini, toda nic ne de, bilo je vseeno zanimivo in zabavno. V hostlu naju preseneti Ivory, ki se obrne na postelji in rece: »Ej dekleti«! Kaj nama sledi ha ha, toda Ivory se je odlocil, da zapusti Mozambik ter odide nazaj v Juzno Afriko, ker mu je umrl Afriski oce. In plani za naprej? Pravi, da po vsej verjetnosti odide nato v Egipt :) Kaksno zviljenje, brez omejitev, kamorkoli in kadarkoli, obrne jadra, seboj vzame par potovalk, z vso potapljasko opremo in gremo… vso sreco Ivory in hvala za vse podvodne zgodbe!

Skupaj smo se nato nabasali na busek in se odpravili Juzni Afriki naproti. Z Ivory-jem sediva cisto spredaj pri vozniku, Eva pa stlacena cisto zadaj malega buska :( Verjamem, da bi rabile se vec casa, da bi raziskale drzavo se bolje, ji dale cas, da nama zleze pod kozo, toda cas je bil za naprej…

morski pozdravi…
Simona